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Pickering XSV 3000 cart on Linn Akito 1?

AnalogueDude

AnalogueDude

New Member
Hi all, been a lurker and researcher for a few months as I embark on a restoration of a poor particularly abused Thorens that came out of a church basement. Thinking of updating the TD-16 Mk1 tonearm with a Linn Akito Mk1 but already have a Pickering XSV cart I'd like to use with the Linn. So questions: will the cart mount and is it a good match? Thanks for any answers and advice in advance!
 
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should be fine on that arm. make sure you mount it 211mm from spindle. the tiny center hole in the headshell is 229mm from the pivot center. stylus directly below that hole and square in the slots will get you 99% or better aligned to baerwald nulls. Nice arm BTW
 
Thanks Marc! I should probably start a project thread. I'm just glad I'll be able to mount and use the Pickering on the Linn arm on my TD-165. So right now my rebuild looks like this, any suggestions greatly appreciated. My rebuild is obviously a major tweak rather than a restoration, based on a lot of forum research, and my personal preference to give the TT a new life. Here's the plan:
- new plinth, stone/fibreglass composite (sucker is heavy and solid) including bottom. New plinth has external power plug connector and gold RCA outs.
- new deckplate, the old one is scratched to heck and is now mere scrap.
- new arm changeout from the factory TP-11 MK1 (apologies think I referred incorrectly to it as a TP-16 earlier.
- new Cardas 33AWG rewire planned for the Linn tonearm (would like advice on this as originally was bought for a planned rewire of the TP-11)
- new LP Gear replacement for Stanton D5000 stylus
- SRM/Tech thrust bearing kit install
- AT-6006 auto lifter installed (to save cart wear)
- install of new precision machined alloy 60hz drive pulley to replace the plastic one (includes clutch in kit)
- Cardas headshell lead replacements
- Got Joel's Thorens maintenance kit including proper bearing oils and new proper Thorens belt
- Make sure proper earth lead is wired
- New 3 spring levelling kit installed (minus the foam)
- original refurbished, cleaned Thorens rubber TT mat

Basically that's it. (Ha... Yah "basic"). Will be interesting to hear what I can get out of her when all done. I know I could have probably upped to a Linn Sondek and just skipped the pain... But a lot of members still swear by updated Thorens. Hoping they are right - and will be worth it all.
 
AnalogueDude said:
Thanks Marc! I should probably start a project thread. I'm just glad I'll be able to mount and use the Pickering on the Linn arm on my TD-165. So right now my rebuild looks like this, any suggestions greatly appreciated. My rebuild is obviously a major tweak rather than a restoration, based on a lot of forum research, and my personal preference to give the TT a new life. Here's the plan:
- new plinth, stone/fibreglass composite (sucker is heavy and solid) including bottom. New plinth has external power plug connector and gold RCA outs.
- new deckplate, the old one is scratched to heck and is now mere scrap.
- new arm changeout from the factory TP-11 MK1 (apologies think I referred incorrectly to it as a TP-16 earlier.
- new Cardas 33AWG rewire planned for the Linn tonearm (would like advice on this as originally was bought for a planned rewire of the TP-11)
- new LP Gear replacement for Stanton D5000 stylus
- SRM/Tech thrust bearing kit install
- AT-6006 auto lifter installed (to save cart wear)
- install of new precision machined alloy 60hz drive pulley to replace the plastic one (includes clutch in kit)
- Cardas headshell lead replacements
- Got Joel's Thorens maintenance kit including proper bearing oils and new proper Thorens belt
- Make sure proper earth lead is wired
- New 3 spring levelling kit installed (minus the foam)
- original refurbished, cleaned Thorens rubber TT mat

Basically that's it. (Ha... Yah "basic"). Will be interesting to hear what I can get out of her when all done. I know I could have probably upped to a Linn Sondek and just skipped the pain... But a lot of members still swear by updated Thorens. Hoping they are right - and will be worth it all.
Click to expand...

before rewiring the arm, check the bearing function. if fine, when running the wires from the headshell tags to the DIN do not twist them as they will add a +/- bias in the horizontal, binding in the vertical causing the arm to be a bit of a sluggard. on a personal note, the bearings in my Akito are "wet".
Don't think the AT-6006 saves any stylus wear. run-out groove doesn't add any more than the modulated parts. does save the knees from not jumping up so fast at end of album.:thumbsup:
 
Some pics of
marcmorin said:
before rewiring the arm, check the bearing function. if fine, when running the wires from the headshell tags to the DIN do not twist them as they will add a +/- bias in the horizontal, binding in the vertical causing the arm to be a bit of a sluggard. on a personal note, the bearings in my Akito are "wet".
Don't think the AT-6006 saves any stylus wear. run-out groove doesn't add any more than the modulated parts. does save the knees from not jumping up so fast at end of album.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: Thanks for the advice and assistance Marc!
 
A step back -
My experiance shows that a well treated TP16 is a better tonearm than any Linn Basic varient,
If this was my TT, and the chouce was between those two tonearms - I'd keep the TP.
 
nkorah said:
A step back -
My experiance shows that a well treated TP16 is a better tonearm than any Linn Basic varient,
If this was my TT, and the chouce was between those two tonearms - I'd keep the TP.
Click to expand...

My earlier mistake - it's a TP11 Mk1 arm nkorah not a TP16. Not sure if that changes your opinion. Well the good news is I am not tossing the TP11. However I'll be putting on the Linn to start and go from there.
 
nkorah said:
A step back -
My experiance shows that a well treated TP16 is a better tonearm than any Linn Basic varient,
If this was my TT, and the chouce was between those two tonearms - I'd keep the TP.
Click to expand...

Hi,

In your dreams, an Akito, (or even the LVX/LVX+), will walk all over a TP16.

rgds, sreten.

The TP16 can be modded to being quite reasonable, but its no star.
 
marcmorin said:
The Akito arm clocks in at 10gr EM, aka Light medium mass
Click to expand...
Yep and by comparison (according to vinylengine's db) the TP-11 Mk1 is 16gr mass. The Pickering I have is more forgiving on compliance than some of its siblings. I found the Linn Akito highly recommended as a tonearm upgrade at mid-cost point versus the Linn Ittok or the SME which seems to command a high price despite questions(other than style) on price versus performance. Again - this is me just sussing what I have read on various audiophile forums. I have no past personal experience to draw from. Generally opinions ran closer to sreton's with respect to tonearm upgrade options for the Thorens TD-16x line.
 
Well -

a) The TP11 is a much less accomplished tonearm than the TP16. In this case, a replacement is a good Idea.

b) I try my best to destingush facts from dreams. Lookout for some lab test reports (there are a lot of those), and you'll discover that the Basic variants, including the Akito, boost some of the higher friction bearings of all "reputable" tonearms sold, since early 70s, while a TP16 in good shape offers better than avarage <20/<30 Vertical/Lateral friction results.

The main "problem" with the TP16 is that ridiclus, spring loaded VTF settings - which can easily be eliminated. Otherwise - it's a very good tonearm indeed.
 
nkorah said:
b) I try my best to destingush facts from dreams. Lookout for some lab test reports (there are a lot of those), and you'll discover that the Basic variants, including the Akito, boost
some of the higher friction bearings of all "reputable" tonearms sold, since early 70s, while a TP16 in good shape offers better than avarage <20/<30 Vertical/Lateral friction results.
Click to expand...


Hi,

Well the facts are bearing friction levels don't make an arm sound good, and its probably
best to sacrifice a little friction (which also adds mild damping) for lack of free play in the
bearings. Consistent friction is not a problem generally, whilst stiction very much is.

There is a lot more to arm sound quality than effective mass and low friction.
Technically Thorens arms are fine, but generally audibly disappointing.
Some of them are audibly a real mess, with poor control of arm resonances.

rgds, sreten.

For what is, within its inherent limitations I've no doubt I could rebuild a TP16,
(or any Thorens arm for that matter), into a rather better sounding device.
 
Yes adding twist will add a built in anti skating but that is not good. I built my 18" arm with a terminal strip at each end to accommodate for such an issue. The terminal strips are very light formed plastic and I hope add little to weight or mass. Past the spindle strip the very fine wires are loose and not intertwined. They converge onto another terminal strip inside a steel shielded box where cable connections are made to RCA cables.
The pivot is .005 fish line and twisted very slightly as a hanging bearing. The bottom is positioned over a small delrin spindle with a similar sized stainless steel Socket Head Cap Screw.
 
sreten said:
Hi,


There is a lot more to arm sound quality than effective mass and low friction.
Technically Thorens arms are fine, but generally audibly disappointing.
Some of them are audibly a real mess, with poor control of arm resonances.
Click to expand...

Certainly, but a tonearm with high friction will never sound REALY good (unless you manage to tranform the bearings somehow), and a tonearm with low friction always has potential.
 
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