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Pilot TD-7000 restoration

chefaaron

chefaaron

Active Member
Well it isn't often when I think that a 9 hour round trip (includes sit down meal) to pick up a console is a good idea but how often do Pilot TD-7000s come up for sale and how many of them have all the accessories still with them? I find it amazing that one of the microphones is still in the original packaging. Kind of lucked out with this one as this console has been in the same family since new. Its in pretty good shape and the tuner still works. It'll end up getting the normal treatment of new electrolytics and blah blah.. y'all know.

The reel to reel will be new territory for me so that'll be fun. The changer seems to be permanently stuck in cycle but that shouldn't be a problem. I'm glad that this came with the manual which still has the schematics in the back of it as that'll help me get the can caps I need from hayseed.

I recently acquired a 1959 magnavox imperial in danish modern and I though that console was heavy. Boy was I ever wrong. This pilot is heavier by far. I don't have a scale in the house but I really want to get one just to see how heavy this thing is.

As I go through the amp and reel to reel I'll keep this thread updated and likely ask questions along the way.
 

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Cool. I don't know my Pilot receivers. I just remembered there were two that are nearly the same front panel, except one is a 6bq5 and the other is a 7591 unit.

Also nice that this one seems well built. I've been told that some other Pilot consoles were not awesome furniture that happened to be loaded with awesome electronics. Most of them got gutted. I have an FA-590 tuner/preamp that came out of one such, I think it was originally paired with an SA-232 amp. I currently run it with an SA-260.
 
Very nice that you found this. I suspect this was not too cheap when it was new! And are they Wharfedale W90 speakers, and did you get them there as well?
 
This one appears to be the 7591 model. I haven’t had time yet to go through the schematics. I’m glad I got it as the guy I bought it from apparently had inquiries regarding selling only the tubes in it based on his questions to me.

The w90s were bought elsewhere and are part of my basement/workshop setup of a fisher x100 and a miracord 10h.
 
That's a very nice console. It even has a cooling fan!
What RTR does it sport? From the picture it looks like it may be pretty decent. Are those crossover switches sticking out the back of the speakers?
It looks like the speakers are in cabinets tht can slide out the back?
Sorry for all the questions, I just don't see that many nice consoles.
I had a pair of those big dual woofer W-90's. But my living room just wasn't big enough for them. They do need some room to breath.
 
It does have a fan!

The RTR is an ampex unit. Model 1250 or 250. I forget which. The faceplate cover for it fell off but I have it.

The speakers are enclosed boxes in side the cabinet that can slide out the back. They can be angled for best sound. They sit on a cushion of some kind that now sounds more crunchy than cushiony. Those silver things are bolts sticking out the back so you can cinch them down once you have them best angled for sound. At some point those had wingnuts and washers on them. I will be fixing that as I go.

I love my w90s. They have a whole basement to fill with sound and they do a great job.

You don't need to apologize for the questions; I'll be glad to answer any questions I can. I doubt many of these consoles existed back then let alone now. As gadget said, most of them got gutted for amps/parts/tubes. All of us should be answering questions as best we can to help spread the knowledge of this hobby. That is part of why I made this thread because I'm doubting that there is much information on the console and I know that some of us on here are interested in them.
 
Not to derail this thread but when I was a teenager, I worked at EJ Korvette in the Audio Department I sold Wharfedale speakers and we had the W90s and W70s etc. I still have two pair of W70D speakers.

"You will now be returned to your regularly scheduled programming..."
 
Nice acquisition!!!! Pilot gear is good stuff, that Ampex RtR should be loaded with Amperex 12AX7's

Interesting that there is an Ampex badge/plate synonomous with Ampex console model ID on the back of the console, could you post a close up of that? I'm guessing it might be for RtR

Screen Shot 2024-09-10 at 7.24.20 AM.png


When I initially saw the console the cane like grill covers reminded me of my Ampex console which has similar caneing
 
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The ampex badge is for the rtr. At the bottom of the console is the multiplex unit. Looked a bit more at the receiver last night and it’s just a 654. No m on the end which explains the multiplex unit in there.

Thanks for the links!

The multiplexer is a sad unit right now. When I plug in the stereo indicator light (which was unplugged) reception in fm stereo goes to nothing. Likely some sad caps in there as there’s a few mv on that chassis.

Pulled the changer last night. I’m hoping to get the amp out tonight.
 

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chefaaron said:
The ampex badge is for the rtr. At the bottom of the console is the multiplex unit. Looked a bit more at the receiver last night and it’s just a 654. No m on the end which explains the multiplex unit in there.

Thanks for the links!

The multiplexer is a sad unit right now. When I plug in the stereo indicator light (which was unplugged) reception in fm stereo goes to nothing. Likely some sad caps in there as there’s a few mv on that chassis.

Pulled the changer last night. I’m hoping to get the amp out tonight.
Click to expand...
Or just a bad tube on the multiplex unit maybe?
 
The 200 mpx unit is the 100 unit plus an auto-switching circuit. Looks like two completely different methods of switching though. One is a relay, the other appears to have no relay. Looks like it reverse-biases a diode to mute the L and R outputs on that setup along with running the indicator lamp at the same time. If its the one without the relay, a whipped 12at7 that drives all that might cause it.



I have a 100 myself, but it needs work. Someone had added a switch that brought some small cap in and out of circuit. Never figured out what that was for but I put it back to stock. It works-ish but I think the 38kc adjustment is off because it makes a "flutter" noise like the 38kc oscillator is not phase-locked with the subcarrier properly. I need to go through the whole FA-590 to make sure its aligned right, and align the MPX unit with it. I did it by the book using a 19kc audio tone and its far from impossible my source wasn't accurate enough to actually do that correctly.
 
Could be a tube on the multiplex. Managed to pull the amp. Marked all the wires with tape before removing them. Burned myself not doing that before.

You all will likely not be shocked to know that this amp is heavy. I put my beer can in the frame for reference to the power transformer.

Kind of neat how the amp goes in. The front wooden panel just sits there and is held in by the weight of the amp. The top wooden panel is held in with 4 screws. Remove the 4 outside screws on the gold cover and two more screws inside the cabinet holding the wood that the amp sits on and the whole thing slides up and out.

Changer is also out. Pickering U39 cartridge is still good. Ordered a needle and an idler for that today. It’s got the usual garrard crust on the bottom and just needs cleaned and new lube. Should be good to go. One issue is the wires that go to the on/off switch are hosed. Unknown what they used but just moving that three core wire I can hear constant cracking of the wire. I do not see a reason I can’t unsolder the three prong connector and run a whole new run. You’ll see from the picture that it’s necessary.

Back to the amp. Very nice build quality. All tubes seem to be original except all 4 power tubes have been replaced with Westinghouse units. Two 7591A and two 7591. I should be able to test them (I’ll have to double check my tester) but as they function as they are is there any reason for me to get a matched quad?
 

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It looks like there is a bias adjustment for each tube? So if the tubes are good just adjust the bias for each tube and you should be good.
 
Bias, balance, and test points on the back of the unit i believe. Fairly modern stuff, and not common on a lot of comparable gear
 
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