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Pioneer A-88X recap help

OUtput impedance?

Hi,

I am considering buying one of these to power my Klipsch KG4s. These are 4 ohm speakers; I cannot find anything online about whether this integrated is rated to power 4 ohm speakers. Thanks!

Ted
 
From SM:
KU, KS, S, S/G models are rated 4 - 16 ohms.
HE, HB, YP models are rated 6 - 16 ohms.

Aren't Klipsch KG4 6 ohm, not 4?
 
Some are 6, some 4 (earlier in production). Just brought the amp home, and what a beast! All switches need a good cleaning and I'll have to go through it later. Thanks!
 
Worked on some.
I did not need to replace the big caps on them.
Pay attention to the power board which is upside down - no escape for heat, and some resistors run really hot there. When working there - careful not to destroy traces; they will be very brittle.
I did replace all power resistors on power board with higher power values. Positions are R1, 11, 14, 15, 17, 20, 21, 22. Vishay CPF, RS, CW can be used.
Zeners might be replaced, too.
Capacitors preferably UPW, UPA, UHE.
Check speaker relays. You can replace them with Omron G4W-2214P-US-HP or Panasonic JC2-aF-DC12V-F.
On voltage amp board you can replace regulator caps with hi temp new ones, might be 100V. Pay attention to cap diameter there - the spacing is very tight. Check UPA, UHE or FC - they come in narrow versions. Zeners, too.
Replace C3, 4 with high quality audio cap such as UKZ or RFS II. C9, 10 with ES.
C17, 18 with polystyrene such as PPFX or RTX.
R23, 24, 35, 36, 59, 60 high quality metal film resistors i.e. V-D RN, CMF PTF, PRP, old Holco etc.
Other film caps can be substituted with FKP2, polystyrene, Silver mica etc.
Replace relay RY1 on Tape Ind. board with Omron G5V-2-H1 12V.
Tone assy recap - as you wish. Sound path caps can be used UKZ or RFS II, C7-10 - FM, FC, UKW, UKL.
Original Op-Amps might be M5210 or M5220 depending on the year. They are adequate. As rails are 22V, there is not much to chose. NE5532, OP275 and LME 49860 are suitable subs.
Check power amp boards for overheated resistors, replace C43, 44 with UHE, UPW, UPA. C37, 38 with UET, UEP bi-polar.
Resistors R113-116 can be upgraded to non-inductive Mills MRA or Vishay NS.
Same recap principles could be applied at Equalizer (phono)board.
Replace VR1,2 with Bourns (such as 3339)
Thoroughly perform De-Oxit procedure on all switches and pots.
When disconnecting those numerous ribbon cables, use color markers, and take pictures.
Might re-seat power transistors with new heat transfer compound.
Re-flow solder joints with fresh one - please use lead containing eutectic. Do not use lead-free.
Treat wire wraps as advised on this board many times.
Very good amplifier with decent phono stage imho, thanks for restoring it and good luck.

Hello
I just picked up an a x88 at a Good Will in Palo Alto CA. for 65$
Everything seems to work well except a bit of scratching from the volume knob. Can I just spray deoxit into the switch? Sorry but Im a novice at this.
dp
 
Hello
I just picked up an a x88 at a Good Will in Palo Alto CA. for 65$
Everything seems to work well except a bit of scratching from the volume knob. Can I just spray deoxit into the switch? Sorry but Im a novice at this.
dp

I have the A-77X that uses the same volume control I believe. I'm far from an expert though I used DeoxIt fader lube (green can) and sprayed into the access hole located at the bottom of the volume control and worked the volume control back and forth. It solved my issues. I had the entire front of the unit dismantled at the time. I'm not sure if you can get to the access hole without some dis-assembly. If you do remove the front panels and access the function assembly board, you might as well spray all those micro switches as well. There are small access holes located on their sides.
 
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