• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Pioneer HPM-100 Recapping Walkthrough

Thanks for the reply and advice. Rebuild the entire crossover? Ha! No I couldn't that without reading a book on the subject, which is tempting but I don't have the time right now to dedicate to it.
 
I know this thread is quite old but I just ordered the parts and have spare x-overs waiting. Will update with impressions in a week or so if everything goes well.
 
not quite the same, but on a pair of HPM-150 I have, I used some obbligato premium oil filled on the mids and a Dynamicap on the tweeter with an auricap on the super - did a really nice job taming the brightness.
While in there, I also replaced all of that crappy 18 gauge wiring with 12 gauge and replaced the binding posts with some real ones.
 
The package is due to arrive tomorrow, but the possibility of snow (in FL?) may delay it.
 
donberry said:
not quite the same, but on a pair of HPM-150 I have, I used some obbligato premium oil filled on the mids and a Dynamicap on the tweeter with an auricap on the super - did a really nice job taming the brightness.
While in there, I also replaced all of that crappy 18 gauge wiring with 12 gauge and replaced the binding posts with some real ones.
Click to expand...

Is there any benefit in switching the stock wire out for larger gauge? I would also like to do the binding post mod but the stock ones really don't bother me too much and I'm not sure how much work it would be to do so. Did you have a hard time? Can you attach any pics?

Thanks, Wes
 
tough to really say if there was a difference when I switched out the wire or not as I did it the same time I put in the caps. Actually I am guessing there probably is not really a whole lot of difference, but I just could not stand that wire they used. Thinking it was 18 gauge stock, could have been 20 gauge - I know it sure could not have been any smaller. Fairly easy job changing it out except for where it went thru the ported mid, still was not difficult tho.
Binding posts - I pretty much always use 12 gauge for my speaker wire and of course it would not fit into those push in binding posts they use. I did not use anything exotic, just some Vampire Wire posts, but is so much nicer. Now those do require either some drilling into the pcb board or mounting the pcb board separate from the back plate inside the cabinet. I ended up separating it and mounted it inside the cabinet, similar to what Klipsch does. Main reason I did that was the obbligato's are some pretty big caps. Could have made it work, but as long as I had them apart doing the binding posts, just thought it was easier and cleaner that way.
Tho some say it was sacrilage to do that to this speaker and I lowered their value. I am guessing if I ever do sell them, a quick audition should erase any doubts about that
 
Package has arrived. Man, Fedex is quick. UPS never gets stuff here this fast. Need to remove the old parts first...
 
Great thread. I spent this afternoon replacing the caps/resistors in my HPM-100's. I have one pair that were the 50W-100W versions. I picked up a pair of crossovers for 100W-200W versions and after doing the replacements on them, installed those into the 50-100W speakers.

Question: Did I need to do anything else, other than install the 100-200W crossovers to bring them to the higher levels? I believe the speakers themselves are identical are they not?

I have to admit, they sound cleaner, in that the very highs aren't as "tinny" and the lows don't tend to boom as much as they did. Maybe its my imagination, but they sure sound like they've been evened out a bit. Make sense?

Thanks for the thread to help keep these vintage pieces running!
 
Pretty sure there wasn't any actual difference between the 100 and 200w versions. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The only differences I've seen over the years is that earlier HPM-100's had better cabinets, with drivers recessed in the baffle an little bit and held in with machine screws instead of wood screws.
 
Rock&Roll said:
Pretty sure there wasn't any actual difference between the 100 and 200w versions. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The only differences I've seen over the years is that earlier HPM-100's had better cabinets, with drivers recessed in the baffle an little bit and held in with machine screws instead of wood screws.
Click to expand...

Actually, the 200 watt version has a brace in the cabinet. It is very well built. I posted a pic of this somewhere on the forum. The 200 watt version also uses machine screws with the metal inserts. I don't know where this inaccurate information that the 100 watt version is better built is coming from but it is just that, inaccurate.

The main difference between the two versions is that the polarity of the tweeter and super tweeter are reversed in the 200 watt version. The components values are identical as well.

Check out the following link to the thread that contains images of the two crossovers, SWN-117(100 watt) and SWN-158(200 watt) versions, on the 1st page. There is also an image on the 2nd page of the internal bracing inside the 200 watt version.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=246666

Hopefully this will help clear up some of your questions and concerns.

Enjoy your HPM's. They can really rock.
 
Last edited:
oldschl said:
Great thread. I spent this afternoon replacing the caps/resistors in my HPM-100's. I have one pair that were the 50W-100W versions. I picked up a pair of crossovers for 100W-200W versions and after doing the replacements on them, installed those into the 50-100W speakers.

Question: Did I need to do anything else, other than install the 100-200W crossovers to bring them to the higher levels? I believe the speakers themselves are identical are they not?

I have to admit, they sound cleaner, in that the very highs aren't as "tinny" and the lows don't tend to boom as much as they did. Maybe its my imagination, but they sure sound like they've been evened out a bit. Make sense?

Thanks for the thread to help keep these vintage pieces running!
Click to expand...
The electrolytic caps will break in over time and the sound should get even better. Films don't need to break in that's why the highs are cleaner if that's what you used to replace the low capacitance 'lytic cap in each one. As for the difference to the different power rated speakers there has been and always will be the debate, but both will handle the power and are equally built. It was a matter of the change in power rating specs way back then. For some reason Pioneer decided to change the crossover on the 200w and added a silver beauty ring on the air port. The drivers are interchangeable between both. Enjoy them them and happy listening.
 
Last edited:
Okay, first off excellent thread! Second, just p/u a pair from fellow AK'er BmWR75. Third, my head hurts from all the tech info!!

I can follow instructions fairly well, but there were so many different values and makers of parts and yada, yada, yada, that I am confused, more than usual!!

Would someone in the know distill the many pages of this thread into a single coherent (for non-techs like me) page of needed parts to re-cap the crossovers in question? Or should I focus on xoaphex's original post w/ pictures and parts list and ignore the rest?

Thanks.
 
The parts listed in the 1st thread are still in stock at PartsExpress. Total comes to $38.94.

There are different brands you can use that are more expensive - Auricap and Solen (instead of Dayton and Jantzen) will take your cart total to $84.14
 
Has anyone compared the sound of the speakers with the reversed polarity mids and tweets to the original version? There is bound to be a difference, maybe that's why some people think they sound great and some people (including me) think they are a harsh, boomy, unbalanced speaker (I own a set of the later '200 watt' versions).
 
Thanks . . . I agree re: forward sounding so I will go w/ the original parts list. As for binding posts, is it just a matter of removing the old and screwing on new, or is there more involved? If its not too much, a general re-cap question: my Infinity RSM's are just as old as the HPM's, so to recap that xover, is it simply a matter of a value-for-value swap? Thanks again.

Jim
 
Just ordered the parts . . .

Ordered from PE - all items have 1% or 2 % tolerance values.
-----------------
2 004-10 Dayton DNR-10 10 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor $1.25 = $2.50

1 CATALOG FREE CATALOG $0.00 = $0.00

2 027-202 Dayton PMPC-0.22 0.22uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor $1.35 = $2.70

2 027-206 Dayton PMPC-0.47 0.47uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor $1.51 = $3.02

4 027-216 Dayton PMPC-2.2 2.2uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor $2.64 = $10.56

2 027-220 Dayton PMPC-3.0 3.0uF 250V Precision Audio Capacitor $3.19 = $6.38

1 US Postal Priority Mail $11.37 = $11.37

For a grand total of $36.53 . . .
--------------------

Now, for why I changed a few of the items from Xoaphexox's orginal parts list:

The 10ohm resistor - wanted to stay with one supplier & it's a bit cheaper than the Mills brand.

The .22 & .47 caps -- in series these make a .14985 cap, very close to the .150 cap called for (thank you Zilch!) -- but the main reason was cost. I'm spending less than $6 on these compared to $20 for the Jantzen caps.

The 2.2 caps -- in parallel these make a 4.4 cap, which is what the original was, though the 4.3 Xoaphexox lists is close.

And no change on on 3.0 cap.

I'll let you know how it all turns out!

Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom