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Pioneer HPM Series Super Tweeters Exposed!

69sixpackbee

Well-Known Member
Well,
On my never ending quest to see what makes things "tick" I decided to tear into the "ever elusive & mystical" Pioneer HPM "Super Tweeter" that is in my newly acquired and recapped & gold binding post-modified x-overed, HPM-100's (that was the first thing I did to them!). I wanted to see if they do in fact actually work. I did in fact play a test tone of 16kHz with both of the attentuators turned off to drop out the mid and tweet and lo and behold...there was sound! Albeit faint but sound none the less. I have read numerous posts with incessant ramblings coming from both sides of the fence about the validity of these components and their ability to deliver an audible tone as well as some aesthetic nuance. I popped them open and there are no "opposing magnets" or "magic fairy dust" or anything else that has been speculated upon. I want to dispel the rumors and de-sway the naysayers once and for all (good luck with this one, I know :( ) Here's what is inside:

IMG_1588.jpg

IMG_1587.jpg

IMG_1586.jpg

IMG_1584.jpg

IMG_1589.jpg


There is a Mylar sheet stretched across a very soft, open-cell foam sheet that is layered above a piece of open mesh aluminum and the underside is stuffed with nothing more than fiberglass insulation. No magic here. The Mylar is stretched in a way that it is taught enough over the whole array so that the electrical impulses cause it to "dance". Think of it as tightening a guitar string and then strumming it. I believe the tighter it is the better to transfer the sound against the substrate; in this instance, the foam backing, as the fret is to the guitar neck. The mass and the length of the Mylar sheet dictates the sound range much like the varying diameter of the guitar strings (here again, my "theory" as I'm sure more physics come into play). The ends of the Mylar are glued to the bottom of the backing plate and the "conductors" are nothing more than embossed aluminum foil layed across a small piece of urethane and when the whole thing is screwed together it makes contact.
What I did with the one I had, and this is just this author's speculation, is that I removed the Mylar sheet, scraped the old adhesive away and re glued the sheet across a bit tighter so that the semi-degraded foam would conform more tightly around the Mylar possibly increasing it's ability to deliver sound.
When I put it back together and did the same test there was a marked improvement on the amplitude of sound that was emitted by the "Super Tweeter" !

So, I have come to the conclusion that these magical devices do in fact work and that the ones that are perceived non-functioning can be directly attributable to either,

A. The crossover is at fault---either one of the .15uFd non-polar e'lytic cap, 10Ohm resistor, .1 mH coil or the 1:8 x-former that drives this (no attentuator is involved.

B. The tweet has degraded as speculated in my aforementioned "test".

or:

C. The person making the test cannot hear above 12kHz anyway.

They do work folks!! :thmbsp::yes:


Bud
 
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Kudo's, or Two Thumbs Way UP!

Very nice. I have a pair of HPM-100 speakers and turned down the attenuators, as you did, and used a empty toilet roll to accomplish the same goal. If I happen to acquire any spare(s) I will likely give this a shot to see if there is an improvement.

I think your logic is very sound (pun intended of course). In fact, from other posts, I've seen where many dome style tweeters have had notable improvement when similar insulation, behind the dome, has been replaced with fresh material of similar texture. For the domes they sound clearer, not necessarily louder, due to diminished sound reverberation behind the dome reflected off the pole piece.

Again, nice work and thanks for sharing this info. I, for one, never doubted their functionality. And completely agree that some people aren't ready to accept that they simply can't hear in that frequency range. Oh well.
 
Heh; you've just ruined all my fantasies about how cool those things are. I bet the foam could use replacement on all of them.
 
Thanx!
I edited the original post referencing my "theory" between the correlation of the super tweet and the guitar string.

:beatnik:
 
I took mine out a few years back when I figured they werent working and if I recall, one wasnt. So it came apart. I reseated the foil strips and re-tightened the terminal screws and it worked. There's really nothing on these things that can "blow". I'm amazed at the prices these are bringing on the used market. For something you cant hear, sounds kinda silly to spend that much on them. I consider them decoration at my age.....among other things. They might work well as teenager repellent.

I'll be digging my HPM60's out soon to replace the woofers and put them up for sale. I'll be checking the super tweeters again at that time, and maybe fixing them again too. I want to be able to tell a prospective buyer that they do indeed work, even if they cant hear them.

Come to think of it....I believe the back of the case presses on the foil terminal strips to make the contact. I think that's what I did, increased that pressure somehow.

If a super tweeter squeaks in the forest, can anyone hear it?
 
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I took mine out a few years back when I figured they werent working and if I recall, one wasnt. So it came apart. I reseated the foil strips and re-tightened the terminal screws and it worked. There's really nothing on these things that can "blow". I'm amazed at the prices these are bringing on the used market. For something you cant hear, sounds kinda silly to spend that much on them. I consider them decoration at my age.....among other things. They might work well as teenager repellent.

I'll be digging my HPM60's out soon to replace the woofers and put them up for sale. I'll be checking the super tweeters again at that time, and maybe fixing them again too. I want to be able to tell a prospective buyer that they do indeed work, even if they cant hear them.

If a super tweeter squeaks in the forest, can anyone hear it?
Just watch for the animals racing away from the speaker. ;-)
 
brilliant job!!

b
Nope. Just stretched it a bit more



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thats really good practical work you have done . without having the need to look at other things. Do you think i could be facing the same problem. I have a pair of HPM-700. I really want to get my supertweeters working ! I checked the super tweeters on the meter but no reading. So i guess it should be the same thing . I even opened them but decided to do a through read up on ur thread here 1st. the transformeer and everything is on the board inside the wooden speaker box

 
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Reestablishing contact between the HPM film and the foil contact "strip" needs to take place.
A corrosive can build up and needs to removed or another strip needs to be added to make fresh contact with the film.
 
I think foam that has small open cells and is soft and easy to compress would be a fine candidate. If I had to replace the foam, I would use Frost King L344 Poly Foam Weatherseal as a replacement. See this video.
 
Well,
On my never ending quest to see what makes things "tick" I decided to tear into the "ever elusive & mystical" Pioneer HPM "Super Tweeter" that is in my newly acquired and recapped & gold binding post-modified x-overed, HPM-100's (that was the first thing I did to them!). I wanted to see if they do in fact actually work. I did in fact play a test tone of 16kHz with both of the attentuators turned off to drop out the mid and tweet and lo and behold...there was sound! Albeit faint but sound none the less. I have read numerous posts with incessant ramblings coming from both sides of the fence about the validity of these components and their ability to deliver an audible tone as well as some aesthetic nuance. I popped them open and there are no "opposing magnets" or "magic fairy dust" or anything else that has been speculated upon. I want to dispel the rumors and de-sway the naysayers once and for all (good luck with this one, I know :( ) Here's what is inside:

IMG_1588.jpg

IMG_1587.jpg

IMG_1586.jpg

IMG_1584.jpg

IMG_1589.jpg


There is a Mylar sheet stretched across a very soft, open-cell foam sheet that is layered above a piece of open mesh aluminum and the underside is stuffed with nothing more than fiberglass insulation. No magic here. The Mylar is stretched in a way that it is taught enough over the whole array so that the electrical impulses cause it to "dance". Think of it as tightening a guitar string and then strumming it. I believe the tighter it is the better to transfer the sound against the substrate; in this instance, the foam backing, as the fret is to the guitar neck. The mass and the length of the Mylar sheet dictates the sound range much like the varying diameter of the guitar strings (here again, my "theory" as I'm sure more physics come into play). The ends of the Mylar are glued to the bottom of the backing plate and the "conductors" are nothing more than embossed aluminum foil layed across a small piece of urethane and when the whole thing is screwed together it makes contact.
What I did with the one I had, and this is just this author's speculation, is that I removed the Mylar sheet, scraped the old adhesive away and re glued the sheet across a bit tighter so that the semi-degraded foam would conform more tightly around the Mylar possibly increasing it's ability to deliver sound.
When I put it back together and did the same test there was a marked improvement on the amplitude of sound that was emitted by the "Super Tweeter" !

So, I have come to the conclusion that these magical devices do in fact work and that the ones that are perceived non-functioning can be directly attributable to either,

A. The crossover is at fault---either one of the .15uFd non-polar e'lytic cap, 10Ohm resistor, .1 mH coil or the 1:8 x-former that drives this (no attentuator is involved.

B. The tweet has degraded as speculated in my aforementioned "test".

or:

C. The person making the test cannot hear above 12kHz anyway.

They do work folks!! :thmbsp::yes:


Bud
 
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