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Pioneer PL-25 problem

So, I'm gettting 120 volts through the cord. IT seems fine. The power supply is slightly warm. But I'm guessing I should be able to turn the capstan easily. It won't budge. It has a small set screw on it. Anybody venture a guess as to why this is so. Is the motor frozen. Would it hurt to add a drop or two of oil where the capstan enters the motor. Any ideas or suggestions are very welcome.
 
The set screw is to allow removal of the capstan to replace it with one for 50Hz if being used abroad. Download the PL-41 manual and look in the section on lubrication. There is a hole that should be lubricated near the capstan. You may have to spray into it to force lubrication into the motor bearings. It says that lack of lubrication in this place can lead to the freeze up and possibly burnout of the motor. After 40 years, it wouldn't surprise me. No telling if the previous owner ever lubricated it. I simply don't know about putting oil at the base of the capstan.
 
hakaplan said:
The set screw is to allow removal of the capstan to replace it with one for 50Hz if being used abroad. Download the PL-41 manual and look in the section on lubrication. There is a hole that should be lubricated near the capstan. You may have to spray into it to force lubrication into the motor bearings. It says that lack of lubrication in this place can lead to the freeze up and possibly burnout of the motor. After 40 years, it wouldn't surprise me. No telling if the previous owner ever lubricated it. I simply don't know about putting oil at the base of the capstan.
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Well, I've gotten very brave or very stupid and am in the process of disassembling the motor. I read in some other threads where the guy says that just because it doesn't turn doesn't necessarily mean the motor is toast. He states he has seen instances where the old lube just hardened and after he disassembled, cleaned and relubed, it worked fine. I'm hoping this is also the case with my table. I see where the oil holes are attached to two tubes. Each tube oils one side of the motor bearings. It appears they have been used in the past. It also appears that the oil has hardened in the tube.

I have my work cutout for me. I just refuse to believe this nice table will never play again :no:
 
Well, after letting the WD-40 soak the motor shaft, I was able to get it to freely turn. I wiped it good with alcohol and relubed the bearings with 3 in 1 oil. I then put it back together, but it still doesn't turn. I also know that this model is an idler wheel TT even though most sites selling belts have one listed for this model. There is only one capacitor in the whole TT, there is no circuit board. It does have alot of interesting mechanical linkage, though. I'm thinking this 40 year old capacitor might need changing.
 
Just giving this thread a Bump to let everyone who responded with help and advice know that the TT is now working. I opened a another thread in the DIY forum. THat thread can be read here if you are interested http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169966
I still have some other issues to work through in order to get this table completely up to snuff, but since I have listened to a side of an LP with it, I am encouraged. Thanks to everyone for your help and advice in getting this table operational again.
 
Congratulations! I have had situations like that where reassembling too tightly impeded movement. Glad you worked out the solution.

So what other issues remain?
 
hakaplan said:
Congratulations! I have had situations like that where reassembling too tightly impeded movement. Glad you worked out the solution.

So what other issues remain?
Click to expand...

Howard it was a GREAT feeling seeing that capstan move. I have been giving it some playtime. It initially seemed like it was having some speed variation, but after playing it for a couple of hours that has greatly diminished. It might still have a small variation. I pulled the original cart and installed a Grado Black I had laying around. This table sounds pretty darn good. THe only issues left are dealing with a rumble from the idler wheel and setting the stylus pressure. I found the stylus pressure guage that it came with, but I'm clueless as how to use it. If you want I can upload a picture of it. It's really just a flat bar of metal with line gradients on it. I had mucho help on getting this table to work again. AK'ers are the BEST group of folks in the world. Thanks.
 
hakaplan said:
What idler wheel? Yes, please post a pic of the gauge and also the idler wheel.
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Yeah, It's an Idler even though many sites including Pioneer sells belts for it. There is very little info on this table. There is a PL-25F too, although You won't find much on it either. Here's the pics of the table, Ill upload a pic of the stylus pressure guage as soon as I can get to the camera.
 

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There's a problem with those thumbnails--they won't expand to the full image. It was also the case with an image you posted in the DIY thread. Are you able to bring them up? I know it's not my browser--I can bring up the ones in post #17.

Click on manage attachments, browse for the pictures, click upload.
 
hakaplan said:
There's a problem with those thumbnails--they won't expand to the full image. It was also the case with an image you posted in the DIY thread. Are you able to bring them up? I know it's not my browser--I can bring up the ones in post #17.

Click on manage attachments, browse for the pictures, click upload.
Click to expand...

Sorry, user error on my part. These should work.
 

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Okay, what confused me is that you said in your original post that this was a belt drive turntable and that it needed a belt. Then after you got the motor working, you said you played an LP. And I was confused because you never mentioned anything about getting a new belt. Now going back a few posts I see where you mentioned it was an idler wheel drive. Never knew Pioneer made any--and I'll bet most others didn't either. There was also a PL-A25 which was belt drive and that might be what those belts are intended for. I don't know of any PL-25F. Where did you find mention of that model?

Anyway, does the original capacitor have polarity markings (+-)? If so, it's a tantalum which was a type of electrolytic, and would require that kind of replacement, since the polarity matters. Otherwise it was just a large cylindrically shaped ceramic or a mylar, and polarity is not an issue, so those polys would work fine.
 
It doesn't look like a tant to me, and I don't think tants go up anywheres close to that high in voltage (highest value in Mouser is 125 VDC). I suspect a cylindrical ceramic, but maybe it could be a film X2 rated.
 
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