• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Pioneer PL 55X any good?

Skobel424

Skobel424

Active Member
I had a Pioneer pl 55x gifted to me by my father in law that he recovered from a relatives home after they passed away along with about 250 records. The majority of the records are from the 60’s and 70’s

My question is how good is the pioneer? Is it worth me buying a new cartridge and cleaning it up. I’d also have to purchase a phono stage. I bought a replacement stylus last night on eBay, it has a
Shure V15 type III cartridge. I just got a cheap $40 stylus to test it out and see if it’s worth me investing money into it. I’m going to use a Pioneer Elite SC 05 for the phono stage time being.

I know nothing about vinyl or turntables so I’m just looking for some honest opinions. I’ve always wanted to get into it but didn’t want to spend to money and go down the rabbit hole.

I’d be willing to spend $1500 -2K on a quality phono stage and cart if the turntable is of that caliber of equipment.
 

Attachments

  • C2696AE2-5184-42FF-85EB-560D339B4599.jpeg
    C2696AE2-5184-42FF-85EB-560D339B4599.jpeg
    110.6 KB · Views: 106
  • 56F5BC45-29C3-4E61-AB04-AEA998ECDCE3.jpeg
    56F5BC45-29C3-4E61-AB04-AEA998ECDCE3.jpeg
    74.1 KB · Views: 95
Register to hide this ad
Very much worth buying a cart for.. I have one... although I'm using a JVC QL-5 for now..

The only problem I've had with my 55x is the speed on it will fluctuate for the first 15-20 minutes of turning on.. Not bad, but you can adjust it and it will eventually stable out.. I plan to rtry and get that fixed some day... maybe...
 
The phono stage in your Pioneer Elite SC 05 AVR is probably fine for your turntable. While it's an decent average vintage table, It by no means requires an expensive preamp.

If you find the sound through the Pioneer's phono stage poor, only after verifying that the Turntables cartridge is properly aligned and the table is working correctly, or you need a phono preamp for an amp that doesn't have one, then a Pro-Ject Phono Box MM for about US$90 or a Cambridge Solo for about $180 should work well.
 
Last edited:
I also have a Pioneer PL55x. I've had it for about 20 years now I think (it's not my daily driver though).

What I like about the turntable:
- Looks. very nice 70's look.
- Weight/ build: heavy steel lower frame, heavy DD subchassis deck, nice heavy platter, RCA connectors rather than a fixed lead.
- Speed is rock solid on mine
- I've measured the antiskatingsystem with my orsonic side force checkers, and it's spot on! which is not always the case.
(setting the tracking force with the rear counterweigth is also very accurate, but most 70's/early 80's japanese turntables are very accurate on this)

What I don't like about the turntable:
- The cue/start/stop mechanism (that lever) is clunky and damping is mediocre.
- The cut off point at the end of the record was not correctly set. That can be adjusted internally but requires some technical skills.
- The arm is the standard Pioneer arm (like found on millions of pl-12D's etc). It does the job but is not a super high end one. Especially the lateral/horizontal bearings are not that great. They can be internally adjusted (preload).
- The original mat pretty much hardens over time to hard plastic.

It's a nice early/mid 70's direct drive turntable with speedcontrol and heavy build quality, definately a step up from the then very popular PL-12D and was more expensive in it's time.
I think the current market value would be around $200-350 depending on where you live.
The arm is quite heavy so a Shure V15 III is not the ideal combination, as the Shure V15 III has a very high compliance/weak suspension; it needs a lighter arm imho.
When deciding to get a quality stylus for a V15 III (like a Jico SAS or equivalent), spending around $150-$300, or buy a quality new cartridge for that price, I would definately buy the AT-VM95ML ($170) or AT-VM540ML ($270). Both those cartridges are a better compliance match for the arm, and are very good overall performers.
I don't think the turntable is worth a more expensive cartridge though. And I wouldn't spend more than ~$200 on the preamp as mentioned before.
 
Last edited:
Interesting the issues you've had with yours @mr_petit I've not had a single one of those issues, and my mat is just as floppy as I'm sure it was the day it left the factory.. I've still not figured out why when cold mine won't stay stable for speed until warm.. .It's not an uncommon problem I've read, but I've not read a solution for it... Once warm, it stays rock solid though..
 
Thanks for the insight and advice. This is what I was expecting, I'm just going to wait for the stylus I ordered to come in and see if this turntable operates and plays music. I'll just use the phono in the SC-05 or another early 90's unit I have, they both have pre outs so no issue there.

If everything works I'll just play around with this for a while, get all the records cleaned up and put in anti static sleeves. This will or will not be my gateway drug into the vinyl world. If I continue to enjoy the vinyl I'll just make the leap into some better equipment. To me the money is better spent on good equipment.

Oh BTW the rubber mat on mine is as hard as a terracotta pot
 
I think taking your time, using equipment you have. Is a good plan. Hear what you like or don't like about it.
Few people re-lube spindle bearings. So finding a manual copy. Read how to access and clean and lube bearing. If it's made to be serviced. Make sure it had oil in it. What oil to use, is subject of debates on AK.

Consider a little electronic scale with attachments to check stylus force. To verify the counterweight markings are close. Some are about $20.

Read up on using a cartridge alignment protractor. They can be bought made of plactic. Or file download and exact to scale printed on cardstock. To verify yours is aligned close to right.

There are threads on AK on members experiences on vinyl cleaning methods. You can spend a little to a fortune. Again AK debates abound on subject.

Enjoy the journey into vinyl.
 
Last edited:
Old Guy8 said:
I think taking your time, using equipment you have. Is a good plan. Hear what you like or don't like about it.
Few people re-lube spindle bearings. So finding a manual copy. Read how to access and clean and lube bearing. If it's made to be serviced. Make sure it had oil in it. What oil to use, is subject of debates on AK.

Consider a little electronic scale with attachments to check stylus force. To verify the counterweight markings are close. Some are about $20.

Read up on using a cartridge alignment protractor. They can be bought made of plactic. Or file download and exact to scale printed on cardstock. To verify yours is aligned close to right.

There are threads on AK on members experiences on vinyl cleaning methods. You can spend a little to a fortune. Again AK debates abound on subject.

Enjoy the journey into vinyl.
Click to expand...

I was planing on going over the whole thing lubing and cleaning before using it. There is an oxidation or film all over the chrome, it comes off by rubbing with your finger so it should clean up pretty well. I'm a pretty technical guy and like to know how things operate and get things running smoothly, so cleaning and lubing moving parts was defiantly #1 on the list.

I did read and watch videos on how to properly align the cartridge and was planing on getting a small scale as well. I'm pretty confident I'll get it operating smoothly.
 
I have an update on the turntable.

I received the replacement stylus today and was only getting audio out of one channel and very low volume and a bit of a hum on the other channel. So after double checking for loose connections again or broken solder joints I realized it must be the cartridge that is bad. I switched the wiring on the channels for the cart and sure enough the one channel is bad. I just has very low volume and is humming.

I guess I'm going to purchase a new cartridge and try again.
 
hhmmm.. I don't remember much of anything to lube on a PL-55 since it's a direct drive. Even the tone arm wasn't designed to be lubed.. Am I mis-remembering something?

Also, trace out those tone arm wires with a meter. Could be you have a bad wire or a bad connection back at the table end of the arm.. I can't remember, does that have rca jacks in the rear? if so, could even be a bad connection at one of those if one has twisted around or something.. I know I have one table that has connected wires and not rca jacks, so memory is failing me some here..
 
similost said:
hhmmm.. I don't remember much of anything to lube on a PL-55 since it's a direct drive. Even the tone arm wasn't designed to be lubed.. Am I mis-remembering something?

Also, trace out those tone arm wires with a meter. Could be you have a bad wire or a bad connection back at the table end of the arm.. I can't remember, does that have rca jacks in the rear? if so, could even be a bad connection at one of those if one has twisted around or something.. I know I have one table that has connected wires and not rca jacks, so memory is failing me some here..
Click to expand...

I realized there is nothing really to lube once I got the cover off of the bottom. Even the few moving parts didn’t previously have any lubrication.

As for the dead channel I’m pretty sure I found the source of the problem when I left all the connections the same and only switched the left and right channel wires in the head shell. If I switched the wires and the problem remained in the same channels it would be an issue somewhere behind head shell. I’ll still check continuity though. The box looked like it got run over by a truck when it showed up at my house. I’ve got to be honest I wasn’t even sure if it was going to work at all.
 
similost said:
Ah.. sorry, I wasn't thinking too straight when you said you swapped the leads around.. I was only a half cup of coffee into the morning... LOL...
Click to expand...

haha. Don’t feel bad one of the guys I work with told me only one more day left around 530 this morning and I thought today was Wednesday until about ten min ago. We work 4-10’s btw.
 
How clean are your cart pins and cart wire clips? It's always worth going over them again, as you can't necessarily see if there's a problem. The pins in the tonearm collar also need careful cleaning. As Similost said, continuity testing really is the best way to check what's happening, all the way down the line.
 
I owned one and it performed well enough. My dislikes were only a couple. The switch used to start/lift and being on springs. Don't own any suspended tables, just don't care for them at all. The switch seemed clumsy and quirky to me. The table performed well enough in all other areas and is a looker.

It also was equipped with a Shure V15III.
 
Oerets said:
I owned one and it performed well enough. My dislikes were only a couple. The switch used to start/lift and being on springs. Don't own any suspended tables, just don't care for them at all. The switch seemed clumsy and quirky to me. The table performed well enough in all other areas and is a looker.

It also was equipped with a Shure V15III.
Click to expand...

Oddly enough I was wondering about the start /lift switch. It defiantly bounces the tonearm when you switch it up. Instead of just flicking it up I was manipulating it manually slowly to the up position.
 
After looking around a bit more I wound up buying an AT VM540 MLT for $180 secondhand. I finally decided that this should perform well and I’m not spending a boatload of money.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom