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PIONEER PL-L1000A

ridleyrm

New Member
I have a PL-L1000A that I got when I was in military overseas in 1982.
Had it boxed up for several years now and just pulled it out and remembered why I boxed it....stylus broken and couldn't find a replacement back then (limited internet...lol).
Any idea where I can get a stylus (or needle...not sure what "technical" term is these days) to see if I can get this old thing working again?
Also, any good webpage for parts list and operating manual?
My daughter would like to have it and trying to get it up and running for her.
 
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I have a PL-L1000A that I got when I was in military overseas in 1982.
Had it boxed up for several years now and just pulled it out and remembered why I boxed it....stylus broken and couldn't find a replacement back then (limited internet...lol).
Any idea where I can get a stylus (or needle...not sure what "technical" term is these days) to see if I can get this old thing working again?
Also, any good webpage for parts list and operating manual?
My daughter would like to have it and trying to get it up and running for her.

The PL-L1000 or (a)model was not an entry level turntable, was not cheap $$$ on the retail market and not offered for sale in the US. The Phase Linear 8000 (owned by Pioneer) model retailed in the US for $700-$800.

I've owned 2 pl-l1000 tables for many years, my first was purchased from the Navy Exchange circa 1980. That unit has gone through several repairs and spent many years in a box as well but for a different reason than yours. My son managed to find a service manual for the 1000 but is still looking for one for a 1000a. Chances are your 1000a will need more then just a stylus after sitting in a box for several years. If the cartridge you have with broken stylus is the original Pioneer that came with the unit...throw it away and keep the headshell, they make much better units. Audio Technica, Ortofon, Shure and Stanton are just a few manufacturers that make better units and they can be had at places like LPGear, Needle Doctor and many other places. Parts for this unit are not readily available and closer to scarce at best. Several of the IC chips on the 1000 model are proprietary and are no longer available anywhere.

I would be surprised if the rubber suspension cups that cover the top of springs inside the plinth feet weren't rotted and crumbling as well as the tiny drive belt that is part of the tonearm lifting mechanism. These turnables DO NOT transport well and are very susceptible to damage unless you use the carriage tranport bolts and transport blocks that came with the unit. So be aware that this turnable doesn't always fair well after sitting in storage for long periods of time.

There are two AK members here that have an awesome level of knowledge about this table and they would be @Pio1980 and @markthefixer. Both gave my son a great deal of assistance when he was repairing my 1st PL-L1000 which was plagued with speed/quartz lock issues most it's life. It has been playing perfectly for over 2 years thanks to all 3 of them. If you are able to just replace the cartridge (recommend) you will need the stylus overhang gauge, that came with table, to properly align the cartridge.

All that being said; I love my (2) PL-L1000 tables, wouldn't trade them for anything under 4 grand and have to say you have one lucky daughter. All my best to you in getting your 1000 back into service.
 
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I have a PL-L1000A that I got when I was in military overseas in 1982.
Had it boxed up for several years now and just pulled it out and remembered why I boxed it....stylus broken and couldn't find a replacement back then (limited internet...lol).
Any idea where I can get a stylus (or needle...not sure what "technical" term is these days) to see if I can get this old thing working again?
Also, any good webpage for parts list and operating manual?
My daughter would like to have it and trying to get it up and running for her.

Welcome to the AK turn table forum.

The manuals are available for free downloads after registration at the VE library. :)
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/pioneer/pl-l1000a.shtml

The original cartridge was the Pioneer PC-4MC catridge, the replacement stylus is still available. :music:
https://www.lpgear.com/product/PIR004MC.html
 
What cartridge is on it? Most styli are replaceable.
I will have to look. She took it to see if she could find one then asked me to look for her...lol.
I just found the manuals online and am guessing it is the original PN-4MC......but guessing. will reply later.
 
The PL-L1000 or (a)model was not an entry level turntable, was not cheap $$$ on the retail market and not offered for sale in the US. The Phase Linear 8000 (owned by Pioneer) model retailed in the US for $700-$800.

I've owned 2 pl-l1000 tables for many years, my first was purchased from the Navy Exchange circa 1980. That unit has gone through several repairs and spent many years in a box as well but for a different reason than yours. My son managed to find a service manual for the 1000 but is still looking for one for a 1000a. Chances are your 1000a will need more then just a stylus after sitting in a box for several years. If the cartridge you have with broken stylus is the original Pioneer that came with the unit...throw it away and keep the headshell, they make much better units. Audio Technica, Ortofon, Shure and Stanton are just a few manufacturers that make better units and they can be had at places like LPGear, Needle Doctor and many other places. Parts for this unit are not readily available and closer to scarce at best. Several of the IC clips on the 1000 model are proprietary and are no longer available anywhere.

I would be surprised if the rubber suspension cups that cover the top of springs inside the plinth feet weren't rotted and crumbling as well as the tiny drive belt that is part of the tonearm lifting mechanism. These turnables DO NOT transport well and are very susceptible to damage unless you use the carriage tranport bolts and transport blocks that came with the unit. So be aware that this turnable doesn't always fair well after sitting in storage for long periods of time.

There are two AK members here that have an awesome level of knowledge about this table and they would be @Pio1980 and @markthefixer. Both gave my son a great deal of assistance when he was repairing my 1st PL-L1000 which was plagued with speed/quartz lock issues most it's life. It has been playing perfectly for over 2 years thanks to all 3 of them. If you are able to just replace the cartridge (recommend) you will need the stylus overhang gauge, that came with table, to properly align the cartridge.

All that being said; I love my (2) PL-L1000 tables, wouldn't trade them for anything under 4 grand and have to say you have one lucky daughter. All my best to you in getting your 1000 back into service.

Yeah, I figured it will take some time to repair. In 1982 I got it in Okinawa at the exchange also...back in the day that was the big thing! I could not tell you how much I paid, but wasn't cheap back then. Also have all the original amp, pre-amp, tuner, cassette player, reel-to-reel, equalizer, dolby,.....everything but the original speakers and cables....lol. But it is all mixed components (Pioneer, Yamaha, Akai, etc).
I found the owner manual for PL-L1000A on https://www.vinylengine.com/ forum.
You have to create acct to get it.
Balifly posted download in response above.
 
The PL-L1000 or (a)model was not an entry level turntable, was not cheap $$$ on the retail market and not offered for sale in the US. The Phase Linear 8000 (owned by Pioneer) model retailed in the US for $700-$800.

I've owned 2 pl-l1000 tables for many years, my first was purchased from the Navy Exchange circa 1980. That unit has gone through several repairs and spent many years in a box as well but for a different reason than yours. My son managed to find a service manual for the 1000 but is still looking for one for a 1000a. Chances are your 1000a will need more then just a stylus after sitting in a box for several years. If the cartridge you have with broken stylus is the original Pioneer that came with the unit...throw it away and keep the headshell, they make much better units. Audio Technica, Ortofon, Shure and Stanton are just a few manufacturers that make better units and they can be had at places like LPGear, Needle Doctor and many other places. Parts for this unit are not readily available and closer to scarce at best. Several of the IC clips on the 1000 model are proprietary and are no longer available anywhere.

I would be surprised if the rubber suspension cups that cover the top of springs inside the plinth feet weren't rotted and crumbling as well as the tiny drive belt that is part of the tonearm lifting mechanism. These turnables DO NOT transport well and are very susceptible to damage unless you use the carriage tranport bolts and transport blocks that came with the unit. So be aware that this turnable doesn't always fair well after sitting in storage for long periods of time.

There are two AK members here that have an awesome level of knowledge about this table and they would be @Pio1980 and @markthefixer. Both gave my son a great deal of assistance when he was repairing my 1st PL-L1000 which was plagued with speed/quartz lock issues most it's life. It has been playing perfectly for over 2 years thanks to all 3 of them. If you are able to just replace the cartridge (recommend) you will need the stylus overhang gauge, that came with table, to properly align the cartridge.

All that being said; I love my (2) PL-L1000 tables, wouldn't trade them for anything under 4 grand and have to say you have one lucky daughter. All my best to you in getting your 1000 back into service.
I just purchased one of those for $90.00 from a vet family.
 
The 1000 didn't have muting, the 'A' might have if that was a malfunction. Otherwise, I would suspect a detached inner signal lead in the plug end on the devective channel after ensuring all is ok with the cart, headshell, and headshell socket connections.
 
Near mint condition!The problem is - it only plays one channel...I suspect that the problem is in RCA connection inside of the table...Any ideas , gentleman???

Welcome to the AK turn table forum.

Might as well change the RCA cables. :)
 
The 1000 didn't have muting, the 'A' might have if that was a malfunction. Otherwise, I would suspect a detached inner signal lead in the plug end on the devective channel after ensuring all is ok with the cart, headshell, and headshell socket connections.
Thanks a lot for the info!Now...How do I get to the RCA connection inside of the table?I took the mat and a plate, couple of screws, but cant get to that corner...lol
 
Thanks a lot for the info!Now...How do I get to the RCA connection inside of the table?I took the mat and a plate, couple of screws, but cant get to that corner...lol
It'd be the plug end not the inside unless the cabling got a hard jerk. How did the platter come off, three screws or a cone fitting on the motor spindle?
 
It'd be the plug end not the inside unless the cabling got a hard jerk. How did the platter come off, three screws or a cone fitting on the motor spindle?
It came off easy...Didn't really get me anywhere...So, you suggesting to replace both plugs...Should I solder the wires or just twist em?
 
If it was a cone fitting spindle, it's a 1000A. Before you do anything further, do you have a multimeter for testing?
 
Basic continuity tests of the cables from the plug ends to the headshell plug socket and wiring, and across the cart leads are in order. If the turntable has muting, there will be a low resistance reading at each signal plug end and that will clear the cable and plug ends of suspicion.
 
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If there is an automuting feature, resistance checks across each plug end may show a very low reading which would be normal. There may still be continuity from the plug ends to the headshell socket and the cart wires in each channel.
 
Near mint condition!The problem is - it only plays one channel...I suspect that the problem is in RCA connection inside of the table...Any ideas , gentleman???

Sorry, late to the party again.

Congrats on the table acquisition. I too had a channel dropout on my "problem child" table which did not have the muting function. After swapping in a new headshell and cartridge assembly I found the problem.
I thought maybe it was the litz wires, they were fine. Checked continuity/resistance through litz leads to barrel contacts, that was good. Apparently enough corrosion built up on the headshell barrel as to not provide a solid connection. I took a small piece of used green scotch-brite (aluminum oxide) and lightly and carefully sanded the barrel that inserts into the tone arm and took a ballpoint pen eraser to the contact ends on both the end of the barrel/headshell and inside the tonearm. Cleared everything out with a shot of canned air then gave the barrel a light coating of gun oil. That was 2-3 years ago and its still working fine.
 
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