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Pioneer SA7100 rebuild attempt!

On to the last board now, in the process gonna replace the 10 tantalum caps on this board, as they can be problematic:

2SA725 replace with 512-KSA992FBU Q3 Q4
2SC1312 replace with KSC1845FTA Q5 Q6

 
dnpainting said:
May I ask where you got the bulbs? I have one out on my 9100.
Click to expand...

Contact DGWOJO (dgwojo.com) tell him you need 8V 50ma 4.12mm bulbs for Pioneer. They will come with the leads soldered on some heat shrink and solder. Please note where the other ends of the wires connect before you start as I accidently pulled one loose. Replace both while you are at it.
 
Finally had time to finish the last board and now this SA7100 is done. It has a lovely nice golden glow to the sound, I am loving it. This is staying in my main system.

Pic to follow.
 
Glad to have found this thread. Sorry to bring it back, but this has been most helpful in my rebuild process of my SA-7100! If any of the contributors wouldn't mind, what tantalum caps could be used at replacements? I've gotten all parts from Mouser so far and all have worked great.

Thanks to patfont for starting this thread.

Warren
 
Do not replace with tantalum again, the suggested replacements are Nichicon UKL series low leakage type, however in this thread they decided to use Elna Silmic and Nichicon audio grade KZ, from what i gather but it really does not make much difference any of them will be okay. They did not say exactly what went where, but if you start you own thread and post a list, we can go over it :-)
 
Hi Patfont. Thanks for posting this. I'm just finishing up an SA-7100 rebuild, and your pictures were very helpful. This is a pretty fun one to work on. I just rebuilt an SX-535 and SX-636, and this was extremely similar, so it wasn't too hard.
 
So, out of curiosity, I tried to set the voltages with the wires attached and then with them unattached. There's definitely a difference. I set the voltages very close to 0 and 30 mv with the wires attached, then when I detached the wires, voltages changed to around 2 mv and 26 mv. So I think if you left the wires attached and set voltages to -2mv and 34 mv, they'd be pretty close to accurate. Either way accuracy is probably close enough.
 
Hi. I am getting ready for a complete rebuild of the same amp. Would you have a complete list of parts I need to order (caps, transistors , relays. etc.)
Would be much appreciated! Thank-you
 
Sorry I did not keep a list on this one.
If you go through the posts you can see the trans subs though.
 
OK. I spent some time searching and there is actually a really good thread that should be very helpful to me. Thanks for the quick response.
 
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