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Pioneer Sx-1010: Newbie audiophile needs guidance

onwardjames said:
ah man, I am sure MTF or one of the other resident geniuses will chime in.

Keep positive. You're getting closer. :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was very careful and used a desolderinggun on ALL the parts to remove the solder, and put each part in the right way. It 5, 4,3 2, 1 CLICKED on each board I did all the way till the end. I messed something up cleaning the back of that board. I wonder if the crust was crystalized 1970's Pepsi. That is the color it was. brownish rusty clear. and it was not on entire board, just down the sides of it. UHG.

upon reflection..... I did ONE additional thing while I had the boards out to clean them. I replaced two more transistors. Q8? and the other one of same value. I think they were Preamp ones. I had one in wrong! ****. The Base and Common were reversed. DOH! Nothing had blown up at that point, just no 5, 4 3, 2, 1 CLICK. So i fixed it and in doing so I pushed the trace away from the board. I did my best to flatten it out again and solder it in place without touching any other nearby daps of solder. Is the trace separating slightly ok? Wont enough solder around the base of the transistor make enough a circuit to where the trace exposed ring should be to work? Hmm?

In any case, I can see that board being a lost cause with all the crust I scraped off, although careful I just can't be sure it was totally clean and who the hell knows WHAT on earth that junk was and if it was/is conductive and shorting something.
 
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Check out my post above. I was editing and then went to dinner. Let me know.
 
zebulon1 said:
I have one if you want it. PM me! Its the older revision with the STV's on the Amp board heatsink. Not the remote one attached to the large driver heatsink.
Click to expand...

1. What does STV stand for?
2. Can I swap things around to make it work with my existing wiring?
3. Can you post a picture of it? Maybe it is just like mine already?

if it helps, mine did not have the "extra" cap on the power board noted in the parts list.
 
Ok, thinking a step ahead....

assuming I can get my Amplifier Boards working again, I want to be SURE the problem is not something that magically appeared after I did all the work on the other boards.

How to I "isolate" the two amplifier power boards from the rest of the system to test that it does not go into protection and blow another fuse? and that it goes 5, 4, 3, 2,1 Click like it is supposed to?

Then once I get the new board, or rebuild/fix mine and connect it, for sure know that I did indeed solve the problem?

I am guessing it is something with removing some of the wires from the two boards. But as good as i am with readying values and schematics, I am not that good at understanding more than a couple steps at a time.
 
There's no easy way to isolate the amp boards with the wire wrap Pioneer used. Are you using a DBT?
The STV are the horse shoe shaped diodes next to the transistor mounted to the heatsink (on the ampifiler board), there's two. One on each side of the heatsink.

Picture:

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yah, mine has the diode on the main heat sink away from the power board.

It looks like I can leave my diode on the main heat sink and jumper two wires into the replacement board. The other wires look like they are the same up top, with the post for the off board diode slipped between the last three wires on the far left.
 
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FYI,

On my system there are actually two different types of STV diodes on the 032 board. There is the one that is attached to the heat sink on the 032 board and on mine there are STV-3's adjacent to the heatsink with a diode stuck in between those two parts (still on the 032 board).

Then there is the STV-4 that is on the large heatsink that holds the output transistors. (horse shoe shaped).

I'll post a photo of mine later tonight to see if yours is similar to mine.

JT


zebulon1 said:
There's no easy way to isolate the amp boards with the wire wrap Pioneer used. Are you using a DBT?
The STV are the horse shoe shaped diodes next to the transistor mounted to the heatsink (on the ampifiler board), there's two. One on each side of the heatsink.

Picture:

attachment.php
Click to expand...
 
You would just leave the board I send you as a stand alone. The revised board has more pins on the top section for connecting the remote STV-3 diode. They both work fine.
 
Went to the hardware store at lunch. BOught what I need to make a Dim Bulb Tester. I think i wired it correctly, I used a PDF off of google. I plugged a lamp into both plugs and neither lite up, so I guess that means it "works".

Once I have the new board I am all set to fire it up again.

IN the meantime, I bought new fused. 6A and 3A. The main fuse in the fuse holder seems like a nomal fuse, but what the heck is this other one that has wires coming out of both ends of it? I can not find it on the service manual.
 
Got the board today thanks to Zeb!

I re-wrapped the top side wires from old board to this new one. If the wires cracked and I only have maybe half the number of rounds is that still ok?


I did not have the 1.5uf cap that this one needed because it is the original A variation of the board.

The other two olds boards did not have it. I ordered it along with some other transistors I didnt change on the other board. Q11, 12, 4, 9 and 10.

I also got some bypass caps for the filters, all new fuses, new fuse lamps. Do I remove the bleeder resistors when I add the bypass caps?

I guess this basic re-cap has become a total overhaul!
 
If the wire wraps break, you can solder the remaining amount to the pins. Which filters are you referring to? The main power filter caps (the two main power filters or ?).

Yes, the D version of the board does not have the 1.5uf cap on it, the A version does.

Yes the unit usually needs the 054, 032, protect, control and eq boards recapped with new transistors as well as the muting board. The goo or crud you mentioned earlier is glue that they used to hold the caps to the boards during the soldering procedure (wave soldering). Acetone removes that as MTF mentioned.

If a solder pad is lifted, you can run a wire from that pad to the next pad in that circuit creating a direct link between those points. There are plenty of examples in other posts detailing the procedure with photos.


rowingcoach said:
Got the board today thanks to Zeb!

I re-wrapped the top side wires from old board to this new one. If the wires cracked and I only have maybe half the number of rounds is that still ok?


I did not have the 1.5uf cap that this one needed because it is the original A variation of the board.

The other two olds boards did not have it. I ordered it along with some other transistors I didnt change on the other board. Q11, 12, 4, 9 and 10.

I also got some bypass caps for the filters, all new fuses, new fuse lamps. Do I remove the bleeder resistors when I add the bypass caps?

I guess this basic re-cap has become a total overhaul!
Click to expand...
 
re: bleeders / bypass - leave bleeders in, give bypass caps some clearance from the bleeder's heat.

re-wraps need to be soldered.

The wraps were done with clean new metal, with sharp newly manufactured corners, now the corners and the wire are nicked and oxidized. Use a little brush on soldering flux , clean with acetone after it's cooled.
for reliable connections.

The fuse was made with leads, get a cheap fuse holder and use a standard fuse...

150x150-1626.Jpg


Or a more expensive an d somewhat more robust one from Radio Shack

pRS1C-2265103w345.jpg
 
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markthefixer said:
re: bleeders / bypass - leave bleeders in, give bypass caps some clearance from the bleeder's heat.

re-wraps need to be soldered.

The wraps were done with clean new metal, with sharp newly manufactured corners, now the corners and the wire are nicked and oxidized. Use a little brush on solder, clean with acetone after it's cooled.
for reliable connections.

The fuse was made with leads, get a cheap fuse holder and use a standard fuse...

150x150-1626.Jpg


Or a more expensive an d somewhat more robust one from Radio Shack

pRS1C-2265103w345.jpg
Click to expand...


perfect. thanks MTF. I found that fuse holder myself while thinking with my Automotive thinking cap on! I ordered all new fuses and am awaiting them.

In the meantime I guess I will tackle soldering the wirewraps. When you say "brush" what do you mean? I have a hairbrush, a toothbrush, a paint brush.... which one? :D I know how to "tin" but I am guessing you mean I need to rough up the oxidize on the post and then snip the end of the wires and get at nice clean virgin wire?
 
extra soldering flux

my bad in a hurry didn't complete the thought.

soldering flux comes in a paste usually, and is brushed on with a small paintbrush, finger, acid brush or even a q-tip.
 
Well....

:no:


Put the new board in, and the bulb in the Dim Bulb Tester I made lights up fully. It is a 40W bulb.

I pulled the bottom side wire wraps on the power amp boards and check the backs. No shorts that I can see.

I used a can of compressed air to clean out and shards of whatnot and shoot it and nothing fell out.

Where the heck is this short? What else could be wrong? Like I said, it was powering on fine until I went back to change a couple extra transitors on the board I replaced. I did not reuse any of those in the replacement board.

How do I know it is not the transformer? Could something have blown it?
 
bought a transformer online. I sure hope this fixes the problem.

When I bought the Sx-1010 I noticed that 50% of the time when I turned off the power I would hear a "clunk" noice, NOT the protectionswitch clicking off/off. Is that a sign of a pending transformer blowup? I had not replaced the main filter caps at that point.
 
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Is the clunk coming from the speakers or the 1010? Go back and triple check the oritentation of the legs on the transistors you installed. Remember the board drawings are backward (from the solder side, not the component side.). This threw me for a while when i did mine back in '10. Try tightening down the mounting bolts on the transformer.

DIMBULB TESTER.
Try a 100W or 150W bulb. 40W is too small for the 1010. The bulb should "FLASH" bright for a second or 3 while the Main caps are charging, then dim down. If it stay bright, then you have problems.

As the Max consumption of the 1010 is approx 640W, using a 40W bulb is going to show a full on bright bulb most all the time. You want some "strangling" but not so much that you can't get it to operate. I found a 100W to 150W bulb works pretty well for the 1010. It limits the current some but not enough to prevent it from coming on. You want the unit to power up but be starving somewhat for current. Again you want it to "Flash" quickly then dim down to almost out. You will be able to see a very dim glow in a darkened room. A clear industrial bulb is better than a frosted bulb.
 
loosing a transformer in this unit is almost unheard of.

it is almost literally the LAST thing to go.

and like Larry said, 100 to 150 watts on the DBT, 40w is too small for just about ANY Pioneer receiver.

ASK before you start throwing $$ around, and wait for the answer...
 
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