Make a print of the PS board.
Print out the rebuild list.
Cross check with the lists and print of the SM board illustration.
The PS is very accessible. Careful with the plastic standoffs, A small drop of Fader 5 on the plastic keepers lets the board slip past after you squeeze the retainers.. Loosen and remove all the wires harness from keepers on the bottom chassis. Have the receiver on its transformer side with the Amp heatsink and outputs removed. I push the amp board back through the chassis slot and work on it from the bottom. Use pipe cleaners or rubber bands to support the loose boards. You now should have a ton of room to access the PS.
The key is to have the receiver on its side, transformer down on the bench top.
I suggest to buy a cheap de-soldering tool for the job. Even the cheap ones are better than using braid or a solder sucker. You and the receiver will be the better. It makes the job very enjoyable. I use the Hakko FR301 (I actually have two, one as backup). At $300 its not cheap but it makes the work easy and professional looking.
Print out the rebuild list.
(EDIT: 9/12/2020 - Rebuild completed successfully and the following list has been updated to reflect all components replaced, and mouser replacement parts i used).
I just acquired a mint SX-1050 from the original owner at a great price - the kind of deal on local CL that rarely ever happens anymore. After a DeOxit/FaderLube treatment and bias/idle adjustment, the unit functions perfectly. But having rebuilt a few pioneer receivers, I know how much better they can sound after a re-cap/re-transistor treatment, and so am going to refurbish this one. I'd like to verify the main list and a...
I just acquired a mint SX-1050 from the original owner at a great price - the kind of deal on local CL that rarely ever happens anymore. After a DeOxit/FaderLube treatment and bias/idle adjustment, the unit functions perfectly. But having rebuilt a few pioneer receivers, I know how much better they can sound after a re-cap/re-transistor treatment, and so am going to refurbish this one. I'd like to verify the main list and a...
- Wyatt Weeks
- sx-1050 recap list
- Replies: 47
- Forum: Pioneer Audio
The PS is very accessible. Careful with the plastic standoffs, A small drop of Fader 5 on the plastic keepers lets the board slip past after you squeeze the retainers.. Loosen and remove all the wires harness from keepers on the bottom chassis. Have the receiver on its transformer side with the Amp heatsink and outputs removed. I push the amp board back through the chassis slot and work on it from the bottom. Use pipe cleaners or rubber bands to support the loose boards. You now should have a ton of room to access the PS.
The key is to have the receiver on its side, transformer down on the bench top.
I suggest to buy a cheap de-soldering tool for the job. Even the cheap ones are better than using braid or a solder sucker. You and the receiver will be the better. It makes the job very enjoyable. I use the Hakko FR301 (I actually have two, one as backup). At $300 its not cheap but it makes the work easy and professional looking.
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