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Pioneer SX-3800 Surprise!

Devileyes

Member
So I bought this very nice external condition SX-3800 from a seller on an auction site. In the pics, in the auction, the receiver looked like new. The seller stated that it powered up, but had no output.
Since I plan on learning about this stuff, I decided to buy it...with the idea maybe someday I could fix it. I own an original SX-3700 that I bought new in the early 80’s which is still in beautiful working condition, I wanted the 3800 back then but couldn’t afford it.
So anyway the 3800 shows up and it is in extremely nice condition. I hooked it up to my Dim Bulb tester and it came on and then clicked. The bulb lit semi-bright at first then went dim. I then just tried all the buttons and dials with no input, everything seem to be working ok, except for a few bulbs out on the front... A speaker, FM and Aux lights out. I then shut her down and opened the case just to look at the inside. A little dusty but otherwise pretty clean and looks to be all original. The only thing that looked off to me was the 2 larger filter caps tops looked bulged...but I looked at some other pics online and think maybe that they just have plastic caps on top of them?
So I hooked up a some speakers, CD player, FM
antenna and tried it out. I got output! The volume knob and balance knob were scratchy, but everything I tried seemed to work. So I shut it down, took it apart and cleaned all pots and switches with deoxit and lubed. It’s all back together now and everything seems to work. I have a very slight balance difference, the right channel is a bit louder than the left. Not by much, it shows on the flouroscan meters as well.
Maybe more deoxit for the balance knob?
Here are some pics of it.
I’m wondering if there are some upgrades I can do to it to keep it from burning up like so many posts I see about the SX-3800 on here.B4E63ACE-3A05-4205-8D92-01554E7F0C89.jpeg4D7FF49C-7F9B-4588-ACD7-E936395CADAE.jpegView attachment 217438873119F9C-2D13-4BAC-92AA-9C56DC96AA1B.jpegView attachment 2174390DF18E42C-7847-4153-BD90-EF506B8762F3.jpeg5051A6F4-750F-4A90-938B-C8D8ADBC742E.jpeg10DEA64D-B049-4F67-B988-84F1A0B3DDEA.jpegE1079DAE-F98A-4000-AFE7-0A75F0DFD692.jpeg8DB87971-EDA5-4490-9509-BE3BAC83E1D1.jpegB4E63ACE-3A05-4205-8D92-01554E7F0C89.jpeg4D7FF49C-7F9B-4588-ACD7-E936395CADAE.jpegView attachment 217438873119F9C-2D13-4BAC-92AA-9C56DC96AA1B.jpegView attachment 2174390DF18E42C-7847-4153-BD90-EF506B8762F3.jpeg5051A6F4-750F-4A90-938B-C8D8ADBC742E.jpeg10DEA64D-B049-4F67-B988-84F1A0B3DDEA.jpegE1079DAE-F98A-4000-AFE7-0A75F0DFD692.jpeg8DB87971-EDA5-4490-9509-BE3BAC83E1D1.jpeg
 

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Output transistor sockets. They crack, losing contact force. Replace with Phoenix connector parts - same as used on sx-3900.

Power amplifier transistor solder joints - ESPECIALLY four to-92 sized transistors with THICKER center collector leads, they get HOT and crack their joints.
Best bet is to carefully resolder entire amplifier card.
 
Output transistor sockets. They crack, losing contact force. Replace with Phoenix connector parts - same as used on sx-3900.

Power amplifier transistor solder joints - ESPECIALLY four to-92 sized transistors with THICKER center collector leads, they get HOT and crack their joints.
Best bet is to carefully resolder entire amplifier card.

Many Thanks Sir!!
I will get on these updates.
 
Output transistor sockets. They crack, losing contact force. Replace with Phoenix connector parts - same as used on sx-3900.

Power amplifier transistor solder joints - ESPECIALLY four to-92 sized transistors with THICKER center collector leads, they get HOT and crack their joints.
Best bet is to carefully resolder entire amplifier card.
mark, can you drop a hint or a link to the phoenix parts? my own 3800 is about to roll this way...
 
mark, can you drop a hint or a link to the phoenix parts? my own 3800 is about to roll this way...

These 12 amp Phoenix connectors substitute well, they are Mouser.com part number 651-1757022 ($3 each and WELL WORTH IT) View attachment 1916906

look at this, I recently compared a $1 Amphenol to the $3 Phoenix - and the only difference I found was a 90 degree orientation shift of the contact prongs:
the Amphenols grab the FACE of the transistor lead - you need to fold the lead to thicken it
the Phoenixes grab the SIDES of the transistor lead in what I strongly suspect is a gas-tight connection. (the transistor edge CUTS into the face of the prong)

A well-engineered and well-executed crimp is designed to be gas-tight, which prevents oxygen and moisture from reaching the metals (which are often different metals) and causing corrosion

The post: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...mp-section-repair.933805/page-2#post-14652601
The thread:https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sx-3900-amp-section-repair.933805/
 
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Update: studying this thread it looks to me the filter caps in my unit are indeed bulged?
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/project-pioneer-sx-3800.928794/

Pic of the filter caps in Super Noobs excellent thread:View attachment 2174735
Pic of the caps in this unit: View attachment 2174736
If they are indeed bulged, what could possibly be the cause?

The sleeves on those caps are SHRINK tubing... They are placed on, then shrunk down.
Well, when heated up to shrinking temperature again they will shrink a little more,
bowing out the separate top appearance disks.The disks get hot too, making them more pliable.
They are hollow under that dome, the aluminum is still flat.
 
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