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Pioneer SX-636 30V on left output

you dont need a fluke meter .. personally i dont get on with them .. too many buttons for a start then they are slow getting a stable reading . i know they are good but i like my one .
if you were close by i would give you a reel of de soldering braid ..i have a few here and never got on with it ..solder sucker does a fine job .. that reminds me i need a new one ..
 
ive had 2 kinds of braid, the NTE and radio shock trash. the NTE stuff is really good and never left any flux on the board. the radio shack trash always left heavy black **** everywhere.
 
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this **** hasn't event got any flux .. its dip it and go .. dont think my iron is hot enough as well .
normally flood the area with low melt lead solder then use solder sucker ..parts just fall out then ..
 
While i save up some more green to order my list from mouser. i got an idea, what do you think about replacing the dial pointer lamp with an LED? im sure i can find a place to fit a rectifier and small cap under the chassis.
ill be keeping ALL other lights standard incandescents, just the pointer to an LED so its brighter. thought about MAYBE making the stereo and functions lights LEDs but decided not because thats to many rectifiers needed.
 
Any idea how i can fix the bent post coming from the pot for the bass control? apparently the dude i got this from did not treat it well. fried channel, bent knob, and we can't forget the chassis is rusted.
 
Bassblaster said:
i want to someday get an Atlas DCA55 and a good Fluke multimeter. that day will probably never come tho. i also just found out i only have about 5" of de soldering braid left. i'll have to buy more of that NTE SW01-5.
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The Peak Atlas DCA units seem really cool. I gave up trying to afford them and bought a $25 DIY version of this kind of tester. They're all over eBay, work really well, and can be calibrated and updated. Not as awesome as the Peak units, but sufficient for many needs and affordable.

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I wanted a more-precise bench DMM for these kinds of jobs and I'd heard Fluke units were excellent. I found many 8050A (and similar) Flukes on eBay for $20-40.

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But after a while I found the LCD display was too dark and at a bad angle for my tastes, so I went back to ebay and found lots of more-precise, same-price-range, LED-based HP units like the 3466A I settled on:

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You don't have to spend a lot to get some great, functional gear.
 
Interesting...looks like im going to be hitting up Ebay again. i was looking at a DIY cap tester once. but i didn't like how you had to poke the caps leads to 2 pads on the board.
Know any older but still good multimeters to search? i dont know why, but im really liking that atlas meter. maybe it will be on sale or o can find a used one.
 
Bassblaster said:
Interesting...looks like im going to be hitting up Ebay again. i was looking at a DIY cap tester once. but i didn't like how you had to poke the caps leads to 2 pads on the board.
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I know what you mean. I've bought 3 of the now on eBay (I keep wrecking them on my bench because I fail to make a box to install them in) and the most-recent one added simple min-grabber leads like this. Totally solved the don't-want-to-shove-leads-into-sockets problem for me.

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The title on this one was "12864 Mega328 ESR Transistor Resistor Diode Capacitor Mosfet Tester w3 Test hook"
 
Bassblaster said:
Know any older but still good multimeters to search?
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I did a few searches for "best multimeter" and read a few threads in forums and decided on the Fluke. I found several on eBay, carefully waited to win a cheap one with a manual and a carrying case, and I was mostly happy with that. The LCD was hard to read on my bench, as I said, and the dang "battery" light stayed on all the time. Checking on EEVblog's forum, I learned there is a rechargeable batter inside that was either dead or missing. I had no idea I could take this bench DMM with me as a portable. so, I read more on EEVblog and found a new lithium battery on Amazon, but I've never installed it.

During that same time I started doing searches for "best vintage multimeter" and came across THIS great page http://emperoroftestequipment.weebly.com/ and did a ton of reading and comparing of prices on eBay for various units that guy described and rated. I had never really thought of HP as a good DMM brand, but the features and precision (more than 3 digits) I wanted and the price I wanted to pay all led me to the HP 3466A.

I'm literally packing up most of my test and repair equipment this weekend as I'm getting ready to move. I have that great-condition Fluke 8050A portable bench digital multimeter (with uninstalled new battery) and a second HP 3466A portable digital multimeter (no internal battery, so you have to leave it plugged in to AC until you buy a replacement lithium battery), if you're interested in a deal on either. Just PM me. If not, keep an eye open for them on eBay as they frequently go, in usable condition, for $30-100.
 
ill have to keep an eye out for that HP or fluke. when i decide to get a new meter ill message you about that HP. do they have true RMS? would be nice to measure the actual power output of my receivers and amps.
 
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