Pioneer SX-980: in protect mode with over 40v for DC Offset (continued)

[JoeDotCom]

Question... can I replace everything that DOES match and fire this thing up leaving the couple of 'old' components in place temporarily? (like these original 100uF caps?)

I will take the no response on this as a "Come on dude, take your time and do it right. Wait for the correct parts."
:yes:

c11,c12,c15,c16 220uf 80v 647-UPM2A221MHD 220uf 100v $1.02

So as mentioned above, C11 and C12 turned out to be 100uF instead of 220uF as expected using the service manual. So I am looking at ordering 2 100uF caps and i want to be sure that I found the right ones on Mouser. I tried my best to compare all the specs between the 220's MFT recommended and the 100's i found. Is this the right thing to order:

647-UHE2A101MPD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 100volts 100uF 20% 10X25 Tol 5LS
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...PDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UHE2A101MPD

Kinda bummed about needing to have $0.66 worth of parts shipped... but I am so close to being done!!

Being in such a metropolitan area (chicago burbs), one would think I could find a source for this stuff within driving distance, but all I could find was Tri State Electronics in Mount Prospect and they only carry caps up to 43uF.

Likely date or lot codes, since they aren't a suffix to the part no.

Thanks Watthour, that makes sense.

 

[Japetus]

Is this the right thing to order:

647-UHE2A101MPD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 100volts 100uF 20% 10X25 Tol 5LS

I admit I can't find significant reason for not ordering that cap, but I'd prefer this one:

647-UPM2A101MHD6
(http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22XS2IAnlK13nxXSTOqZY4x0=)
(Why? See Nichicon's choice table attached. Since a suitable 100µF/100V UPW is currently not in mousers' stock, second best would be an UPM...)

Why not ordering 4 pcs. - some to spare? Something goes wrong - cap gets damaged - need replacements replacement - again new ordering fee - :grumpy:

BTW: Interesting thread - in many ways...

Frank

 

[mattsd]

You can use either one, though the UHE is what is recommended in Mark's rule of thumb.

cea radial general purpose: replaced by Nichicon UPW, UHE or Panasonic FM and FC in that order.

 

[markthefixer]

I will take the no response on this as a "Come on dude, take your time and do it right. Wait for the correct parts."
:yes:

<snip>

Kinda bummed about needing to have $0.66 worth of parts shipped... but I am so close to being done!!

Being in such a metropolitan area (chicago burbs), one would think I could find a source for this stuff within driving distance, but all I could find was Tri State Electronics in Mount Prospect and they only carry caps up to 43uF.

My silence is just a time available/ time delay thing. First I gotta get ON Karma, then I try to get as many easy answers done as possible. When I have to reread a thread to unscramble MULTIPLE NEW POSTS with a LOT of activity and questions and back and forth with other people, I tend to "put it off" until I can concentrate on the answers. A post like even this one eats a LOT of time.

PLUS, it was asked at 8:36 and by 10:35 you are posting about "the silence". Maybe it wasn't me? That's pretty quick for ANYTHING on Karma...

Parts lists have ALWAYS had the disclaimer that they are a STARTING POINT and that a detailed visual inspection of the actual values in EACH POSITION (which is why I include board number and component number for EACH part, and that takes lots longer to do rather than saying "four 100uf 35v caps in the manual's parts list".) is the SECOND step, before ordering.

The greatest effort is to physically GET TO the components to replace them. IF the unit WAS WORKING, there is little harm / low risk involved in leaving a few old parts in place, just don't expect all new performance...
BUT
If the unit WASN'T working, the missing good part could be replacing a duff part and re -powering up prematurely could take out other good components.

Yes, I too am bummed not to have a "mouser" in close proximity.... c'est la vie... so I keep lots of values around. Very rarely end up at Tri-State.

Plus with me, Sundays are dark days, I have company over on Sunday.

Then there's the fact that last Saturday my ANCIENT (1970) refrigerator refused to start (parts distributors no longer CARRY the parts) and then Thursday my water heater sprung a leak bad enough to put it's own fire out. By Saturday I had the Fridge going and the hot water on, and now, Monday morning I still have to clean everything around here back to it's usual state/location.

 

[JoeDotCom]

I will take the no response on this as a "Come on dude, take your time and do it right. Wait for the correct parts."

My silence is just a time available/ time delay thing. First I gotta get ON Karma, then I try to get as many easy answers done as possible. When I have to reread a thread to unscramble MULTIPLE NEW POSTS with a LOT of activity and questions and back and forth with other people, I tend to "put it off" until I can concentrate on the answers. A post like even this one eats a LOT of time.

PLUS, it was asked at 8:36 and by 10:35 you are posting about "the silence". Maybe it wasn't me? That's pretty quick for ANYTHING on Karma...

<-- JoeDotCom's new mug

No, No.. please dont take that the wrong way MTF, it was not directed at you are all. I have seen your fridge thread and know you have a ton going on. It was more me trying to retract a question that I really knew the answer to. I was childishly hoping someone would say "sure, go'on and fire the puppy up, she'll be fine!". but i really knew the right thing was to get the parts and do it right.

So again... no offense intended towards you. I know you put a lot of time into your posts and i am grateful for the attention my project has gotten from you.:yes:

Parts lists have ALWAYS had the disclaimer that they are a STARTING POINT and that a detailed visual inspection of the actual values in EACH POSITION (which is why I include board number and component number for EACH part, and that takes lots longer to do rather than saying "four 100uf 35v caps in the manual's parts list".) is the SECOND step, before ordering.

Understood. I am learning quick, but a fair amount of the specs / info on these parts are Greek to me. So I am trying my best to learn on the fly and ask intelligent questions when I can. Problem is, sometimes i don't realize there is a question i should be asking. So for my learning journey here, I now know that What is in the schematic and what is on the board does not always match. I am glad I noticed during installation instead of putting in the wrong parts and blowing something up and incurring more costs re-replacing stuff.

The greatest effort is to GET to the components to replace them. IF the unit WAS WORKING, there is little harm / low risk involved in leaving a few old parts in place, just don't expect all new performance...
BUT
If the unit WASN'T working, the missing good part could be replacing a duff part and re -powering up prematurely could take out other good components.

Yes, deep down this is what I was thinking. I am on board.


I have all the other components installed. I was careful about the connection of my transistors and did not blindly realign them with the old transistors.

In the next couple of days I am planning on ordering the 100uF caps I mentioned below unless you (MTF) have any objection. :thmbsp: (from what mattsd posted. It looks like I am on the right track.)

647-UHE2A101MPD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 100volts 100uF 20% 10X25 Tol 5LS
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...PDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UHE2A101MPD

oh, and thanks for the info/pdf Japetus.

 

[JoeDotCom]

647-UHE2A101MPD
Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 100volts 100uF 20% 10X25 Tol 5LS
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...PDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UHE2A101MPD

OK The order is in! I have my fingers crossed that I will be listening to the sweet sounds of this baby next week!!

 

[Spectrum77]

You've got to be getting close now...

 

[JoeDotCom]

It lives again!!!! Thank you to everyone who helped me with this project, especially MarkTheFixer who put a great deal of time into guiding me in this thread.

The last two caps were installed two nights ago. I brought it up on the DBT, set balance and idle. Brought idle back down, then came up without the DBT and did the same. Then after 30 minutes of being powered on, i rechecked the balance and idle values and adjusted.

Everything is back together and it looks and sounds wonderful.

I think part of my responsibility in this thread is to make sure I documented the process well so that it might be helpful (or entertaining, haha) to other AKers. I hope I did pretty well on that. If there is anything missing that would be helpful, please let me know and I will be happy to append it.

-Joe

 

[Alienz]

Woo! Congrats man on a a great job! :tresbon:

And yes, i think i learned some stuff and was entertained :thmbsp:

 

[LittleBill]

Late to the party here, but I want to thank everyone on this thread, especially @JoeDotCom and @markthefixer. I have an SX-980 with pretty much the exact same issues described here and was able to fix it using the excellently detailed instructions here. Thank you!