The polarised capacitor is in the overload cut-off circuit. It is not in the signal path and changing it for non-polarised would be of no benefit.Can I ask a practical question - why didn't you replace that polarized capacitor at the bottom of the circuit board in your picture?
Polarizing the bottom electrolytic capacitor on the circuit board is not really necessary, but I really appreciate your contribution. I will replace them when I have the opportunity to open the speaker cabinet again.A hotly debated and discussed topic - the best way forward is probably just to keep listening to them and see what you think.
I personally do find that initial dry, raw sound only lasts for a few hours with new caps and then smooths out. (Or maybe it's my ears that get used to it - I dunno.)
Can I ask a practical question - why didn't you replace that polarized capacitor at the bottom of the circuit board in your picture?
I've recently replaced all the old electrolytic capacitors in my Beovox M75 with new ones, and after the change, I noticed the sound is a bit dry and somewhat harsh. Is this normal, and do capacitors require some time to break in for better sound quality?
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I recapped a Tandberg TR 2080 which if I recall used the same purple type caps that are shown in the overload circuit here. And they'd all drifted significantly.Nice work indeed! It could be "break in" or it could be that you are hearing these speakers for the first time the way they were intended. Also, triple check your wiring.
And yes, those bottom caps are only for the protection circuit. No need to replace them unless they have failed.