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Please help me fixing my Jvc ax1100,

sonci

Well-Known Member
Ok, I searched for weeks Audiokarma, trying to fix it by myself, but the beast just stays in protection, so I'm starting this thread.
It happened when I tried to set the idle current, the trimpot went open, maybe because I had sprayed it with Deoxit, there was a puff, smoke and protection kicked in.
Even though there was a bad smell I didn't see anything burnt on the pcb. The manual seems too complicated so I had to measure everything, and there are a lot of components on this amplifier.
Of course the output transistors of one channel were blown, a pair of Toshiba 2SD1148 and 2SB863, also I identified 3 burned resistors.
R516
R522
R528
the transistors Q516, Q518, Q520,Q522,
2SD1148 I used ONsemi NJW0281G
2SB863 I used ONsemi NJW0302G , as recommended here on a similar thread. The trimpot was Vr502, it measures ok now.
I replaced resistors and transistors but nothing has changed, it stays in protection. The voltages between transistors legs seem identical for the equal pairs.
I have read that in dynamic super A amplifier with blown output, the chip IC 502 (vc5022-2), can be damaged too, but when I test it with multimeter in diode mode, it measures the same as the other chip.
There are no technician for this kind of work near me, and I really want to fix it, since this was my fault.
Any help?

jvc2.jpg
 

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Have you also replaced the bias trimpot?

Search on this site for instructions on building a dim bulb tester - and only power the amp up thru that from now on.
 
Have you also replaced the bias trimpot?

Search on this site for instructions on building a dim bulb tester - and only power the amp up thru that from now on.
I haven't replaced the trimpot because it seems to measure ok now, but I'm going to do ii eventually.
I thought there was no risk when the amplifier is in protection mode, but maybe I should use a bulb tester.
RT502 pin 3 voltage ?
sorry but I'm just a guy with a multimeter, you mean R502 near the trimpot?
 
no .i mean the plug next to the output transistors . pin 3 is audio out and should be close to 0v dc .
 
no .i mean the plug next to the output transistors . pin 3 is audio out and should be close to 0v dc .
ok, with the black multimeter plug to ground and red to the out pin, dc is around 0.00,
while there's high dc between B and C leg of transistors (NPN) around 60v, but probably this is normal because it's the same for both channels..
 
relay should click in then ..try getting voltage same point for other channel
when checking transistors go from base to emitter ..most cases you should see around 600mv .
 
relay should click in then ..try getting voltage same point for other channel
when checking transistors go from base to emitter ..most cases you should see around 600mv .
From base to emitter is around 120-170mv but I cant be sure because the value fluctuates a lot, for all transistors.
 
I haven't replaced the trimpot because it seems to measure ok now, but I'm going to do ii eventually.
I thought there was no risk when the amplifier is in protection mode, but maybe I should use a bulb tester.

The relay only disconnects the speaker outputs so you can still damage components while poking around in there. I'd definitely use a dim bulb tester to do any further troubleshooting as if you have a shorted device somewhere you can be stressing more and more stuff each time you turn it on.
 
are they plugs where you measured 0v ? if so unplug them and power up unit and see if relay clicks .
I don't see any plug here.
The relay only disconnects the speaker outputs so you can still damage components while poking around in there. I'd definitely use a dim bulb tester to do any further troubleshooting as if you have a shorted device somewhere you can be stressing more and more stuff each time you turn it on.
I'm doing it, thanks.
PS. I never thought it would be this hard to find an old 60 or 100w lamp!

I also get some low readings from Q514, if comparing with Q513. Is this a driver transistor? If it's short, is it possible to trigger protection?
 

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I connected the dim bulb tester. Initially there is a strong light for maybe a fraction of a second, immediately after turning on, then the bulb stays barely light, so I know I'm not destroying more..
I still suspect the Dynamic Super chip, even though when testing between legs(9), in diode mode, values are nearly the same with the other chip, except for pin 1 and 5.
I tried again what Pete sugested, and it seems that dc value rises from 0 to around 240mv, but I don't know if its correct or its a multimeter problem, because it seems to fluctuate.
 
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