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Plinth & Restoration of Sp-10 MkII

L

LouBP

New Member
Hi Folks - I could need some help here.

First of all - Sorry for my english, it isn't always the best. Hope you get it:-)

I was lucky the other day to get a Technics SP-10 MkII for a very good price. The downside is that it is in pretty bad conditon cosmetically, mechanically it works perfekt, but the strobelight is not working. I've bought a replacement neonlight bulb from http://www.acoustand.co.uk.

I've taken turntables apart and paintet and restored them before, but mostly Thorens and Lencos - nothing this complicated. Changeing is easy enough, but I'm thinking of painting the chassis because of the damage, but I'm a little worried about reassemble the turntable wrong, but maybe I'm worried over nothing?
Is it even a good idea to paint the chassis or should i learn to live with the marks?

I'm trying to figure out who I should design my plinth. I have to 3 tonearms, Stax ua-7, Stax Ua-7 and Sme 3009 Serie II. I have the Stax ua-7 Mounted on my Lenco Diy project. I think most TT's look best with one tonearm mounted. But i since i have 2 spares, I'm thinking of mounting both. But then i have to make a pretty big plinth, wich i'm no fan of. Any ideas or views on cons and pros of one or two tonarms?

Last thing Question - Armboards completly seperated from the plinth, are this worth going for? Mostly to minimize vibration?

Here are some bad pics of the project.







Thanks for any inputs and advice.
 
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You should be fine. I always recommend taking lots of pictures during disassembly, and bagging parts according to the area or mechanism they came from to make it easier to remember where things go when it's time to put it back together. Use some basic static protection, especially if it's a MK2A, and be gentle on the cable connectors as the locking mechanisms on these are prone to breaking. If you paint, cover the threaded holes or have the tools to chase the threads to clean out the paint before reassembly.

I'm fairly handy with these tables, as are others. I'm sure if you have any trouble someone here can help you through it.
 
To be thorough, I should say to strip the chassis entirely if you're going to refinish it.

There's some very exhaustive threads on audiogon in regards to running these essentially plinth-less with arms mounted separately. In short, one school of thought is it provides increased isolation from motor vibrations, and the counter to that premise is that it'll allow small movement and vibration between the arm and platter. IMO, an SP-10 in proper working order should never exhibit any noticeable vibration at all.

I use the stock plinth with removable armboards, which works well for me, but I'm not one to swap arms much. Plus, I run an arm with removable wands, of which I have a dozen, so that further mitigates my need to swap arms. If you're someone who likes to change arms a lot, or has different setups for different records, etc. then you may want a plinth that can accommodate 2-3 arms. That can be difficult on the SP-10 due to the size and shape of the chassis - you don't have a lot of options for placement, especially if you're running 9" arms.
 
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