Preamp outlets in vintage equipment or powerstrip?

[grantray]

Hi!

I've got a really nice early model C20 preamp en route, and was wandering if anybody uses the preamp outlets for tuners/amps/phono, or if those outlets are no longer best for use. I'm used to running power strips/conditioners, myself, but if older equipment like my MR67 and restored Garrard 301 are happier being powered through the preamp, I'd be all for giving it a go.

And yes, the C20 is totally getting a shakedown for recapping before she goes in the system.

 

[techguy0192]

I've always avoided using the rear power outlets. Many Macs actually use a relay to control the outlets that can fail, resulting in the outlet no longer switching on.

A nice power center would be the best solution. The APC G5 is one that I have personally looked at, but my needs changed before I purchased it. The unit can be configured for proper power up/down sequences for all your components. They are reasonably priced and from a solid company. I use Furman power conditioners in my system.

Congrats on the C20. Be sure to post some pics.

 

[grantray]

Many Macs actually use a relay to control the outlets that can fail, resulting in the outlet no longer switching on

Ah. Well that settles it, then. Thanks for the nod to the APC G5, although the Furman PST-6 has been on my radar as a tidy solution to my current layout. Which Furman are you using?

 

[techguy0192]

Ah. Well that settles it, then. Thanks for the nod to the APC G5, although the Furman PST-6 has been on my radar as a tidy solution to my current layout. Which Furman are you using?

I use a Furman PL-8C for my preamp and analog/digital front end. I keep my power amps on the floor between my speakers, and have a Furman AC-215A, wall mounted near the amp(s), for those duties. They have the same features as the ones marketed for HT, but lack a fancy faceplate. I feel these are solid and I trust them with a system that has 5 figures worth of gear.

 

[twiiii]

Mcintosh made a power strip rated at 15 amps back in the late 70's that plugged directly into a wall receptacle. An additional cord of a much lower rating plugged into one of the switched ac plugs on the preamp. You turn on the preamp the pre-amps outlet supplies a few watts to turn on the AC strip. Works great and prevents the relay in the pre-amp from being compromised and also keeps heavy current out of the inside of the pre-amp which could cause noise and other pollutants to invade the audio signal. Today with triggering circuits there is no reason for worries anymore. Another advantage to the triggering circuits is sequential turn on timing to prevent danger spikes from reaching the loudspeakers and annoying are ears.

 

[MACKIE1975]

The high end Furman is ok. The cheap Furman is same as $5.00 power strip with a nice cover. I will go with either Panamax or APC.

 

[62caddy]

Between the tuner and turntable, that is barely 1 amp draw combined. I'd plug them into the C20 without thinking twice.

 

[maxhifi]

I use the outlets on the back of my C24 to power my whole system, including power amplifiers, and it's been fine for many years. That said, the C24 isn't worth the same kind of money a C20 is, so in your shoes I'd probably be more careful.

 

[AdamAnt316]

Another thing to keep in mind, at least in the older Mc gear, is the power switch on the back of the volume control (not sure why they put it there, but they did). If the contacts in that go, the until will either be stuck permanently on, or (less likely) permanently off. Currently, I'm using an Optimus power center to turn on my Mc system in order to take the wear off the power switch in my C26. I'm still using the outlets on the back of the preamp for the tuner and other low current draw items, but since the external box is doing the switching, I don't have to worry about the switch in the C26.
-Adam

 

[grantray]

the power switch on the back of the volume control (not sure why they put it there, but they did). If the contacts in that go, the until will either be stuck permanently on, or (less likely) permanently off...

Are the contacts for the for the switch rebuildable, or were they designed for "Remove And Replace" when serviced after they've busted? Since the unit was designed/built in the late 50s, I'd have thought the switches were repairable, no?

 

[AdamAnt316]

Are the contacts for the for the switch rebuildable, or were they designed for "Remove And Replace" when serviced after they've busted? Since the unit was designed/built in the late 50s, I'd have thought the switches were repairable, no?

I'm not sure off-hand, since I've never had one of those controls apart. It depends on the design of the switch itself; personally, I'd tend towards them not being made to be easily repaired. The switch part might be removable, but finding a working switch to graft on may be rather difficult. Some of the high-end military stuff used a separate microswitch, but even those can fail.
-Adam