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Preamp to use with Dynaco ST-70?

Dynakit Parts also has the wider spaced gold plated RCA’s.
I just ordered them for mine yesterday. I’d love to be able to keep the stock ones but I’m one of “Those” guys who likes better cables.

Enjoy!
 
Agree on making up some cables using the Switchcraft ends.

I've also picked up in Thrift Stores good quality, sounding cables with Gold plated brass ends that fit rather nicely.
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Stereodiver said:
Dynakit Parts also has the wider spaced gold plated RCA’s.
I just ordered them for mine yesterday. I’d love to be able to keep the stock ones but I’m one of “Those” guys who likes better cables.

Enjoy!
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I ditched the stock RCA jacks with my Dynakit ST-35, and the VTA ST-70 kit came with better RCA iacks. I always replace those old shorts RCA jacks.
They just aren't the best choice with modern cable ends.
 
you can get those Switchcraft with gold plated contacts too, 3502aau or if you prefer them in black and gold, 3502abau

even if you weren't going for modern cable ends, those stock double RCA input jack things were pretty crappy. The plating oxidizes and the construction just isn't all that great. Basically everything made in the stereo tube era used those same crappy crimp jacks.
 
Got the PAS 3 today. Cleaned it up a bit and hooked it up. Sounds good but I don’t think I can tell a big difference between it versus the pioneer. Maybe I need to give it some more time

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Congrats, that looks to be in very good condition. Some of the components might still need to be upgraded, but that's routine for gear this old. Honestly, the benefit of an all-tube system depends a great deal on the source material. Probably 95% of today's music has already been transported through a zillion semiconductors, starting at the recording studio. If a SS preamp is well designed using contemporary, high quality components, it can be very difficult to hear a difference unless you have an all analog, all tube source. IME, it's almost essential for the power amp to be tube type, but not so much the preamp.

Jack
 
Since the knobs have been removed, in case you weren't aware, when reinstalling the tone control knobs be sure to follow the procedure indicated in the assembly manual. The flat response position does not correspond to the center of the mechanical rotation, there is an offset. Basically, you rotate the pots fully counter clockwise, then position the knob pointers to the seven o'clock position. This results in flat response at the twelve o'clock position. It's quite common to find PAS 2-3 tone control knobs positioned incorrectly.
 
audioregen said:
Since the knobs have been removed, in case you weren't aware, when reinstalling the tone control knobs be sure to follow the procedure indicated in the assembly manual. The flat response position does not correspond to the center of the mechanical rotation, there is an offset. Basically, you rotate the pots fully counter clockwise, then position the knob pointers to the seven o'clock position. This results in flat response at the twelve o'clock position. It's quite common to find the tone control knobs positioned incorrectly.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing this. I had no idea about replacing the knobs. I just put them back where I thought they should go with equal distance between full on and full off
 
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