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Problem recording with Technics RS-1500

vinylfiend

New Member
Hello All,

I recently hooked up my Technics RS-1500 to my system after it had sat on the shelf for about a year. It plays back OK but run into problem when it record. After making a recording, all I get when I play it back is a lot of hiss and barely audible sound.

I checked all my connections and cleaned the heads. I'm thinking maybe I need to de-mag the heads, any thoughts? The heads on this machine have never been de-magged. (Yes, I know, I'm bad)


Thanks:dunno:
 
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Eliminating the obvious things first.

The headblock has a switch. If it is the RP-2224 version (appropriate for the RS-1500) then the switch should be in the 2-track position to record.

Also, the deck has record enabling toggle switches (bottom right). They should be in the upper position (if memory serves - my units are out of rotation) for recording to be enabled.

Finally, when recording, are you seeing the VU meters swing in sync with the music? Unless you can see that, you are not actually feeding signal to the unit for it to record - check your cabling.

Even if the unit is in need of adjustments and cleaning, it should record something - however badly.

Need to demagnetize the heads is something that would cause reproduction problems as well.
 
Hello SaSi;

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked all the of things you mentioned and found everything to be as it should be. The switches were in the right positions and I know I am getting signal, because the VU are swinging in sync with the music. The switch on the headblock is in the 2 track position.

It does record the sound, but the recording is full of hiss and you can barely hear what was recorded.

Hope there is nothing wrong with machine internally.:tears:
 
If you eliminate all the obvious culprits, it could well be bad capacitors. This is now a common thing. I was forced to re-cap all 3 of mine for various little ailments.

However, the toggle switches on these decks could likely use some deoxid. They get quite stubborn from sitting.

Marc
 
Well Guys It looks like I found the culprit.
The problem turned out to be the 2t-4t switch on the headblock. Wound up giving it a shot of De-oxit and Dex-oxit Gold. The switch was dirty. Also followed Tinman's suggestion of some de-ox on the toggle switches. Now the machine sounds great and recording is fine. Glad to find that it something simple.
 
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The 2t-4t switch would be part of the obvious culprits. Have yet to see one that DIDN'T need cleaning.

But do yourself a favor and remove the back cover, take a flashlight and look at the legs of the various small capacitors. They should be shiny silver. If any are dull and greenish, or look like somethings growing on them.... it's just running on borrowed time. Just be sure nothing is leaking on the boards yet. And while in there, put a drop of oil on the intermediate roller for the counter. That one dries up and squeals like a stuck pig during FF and REW.

They are lovely decks, aren't they...

Marc
 
The 2t-4t switch would be part of the obvious culprits. Have yet to see one that DIDN'T need cleaning.

But do yourself a favor and remove the back cover, take a flashlight and look at the legs of the various small capacitors. They should be shiny silver. If any are dull and greenish, or look like somethings growing on them.... it's just running on borrowed time. Just be sure nothing is leaking on the boards yet. And while in there, put a drop of oil on the intermediate roller for the counter. That one dries up and squeals like a stuck pig during FF and REW.

They are lovely decks, aren't they...

Marc

Hey Marc - I just got myself another mx5050BII and was inside cleaning and inspecting a noticed a bunch of capacitors surrounded by purple waxy looking substance - I figured it was a sealer or something and I didnt touch it. Is it normal for this machine?
 
Hey Marc,
Thanks for the suggestion on the caps. That's my next step. Also I have experienced the famous RS-1500 squealing counter problem. My solution to that was found in a Radio Shack precision lube pen with a teflon based lubricant. A little in the shaft that holds the belt pulley and no more squeal. Have you ever had any success in cleaning the level controls on your deck? Mine are a bit noisy but I have found getting de-ox into them is a bit tough.

All in All you are right, they are great decks.
 
Caig DeoxIT and DeoxIT Gold are the most valuable chemicals in the world of audio.

I own a repair shop, and we use the above chemicals on nearly every machine we see. The Caig products work better than any other brand!

But be sparing in your use of Gold. It is super potent stuff. Very aggressive. Spray it on some heavily oxidized RCA jacks on the back on an old receiver, and watch it bubble!!!

Fred
repairing audio gear since the Pleistocene
 
Hey Marc - I just got myself another mx5050BII and was inside cleaning and inspecting a noticed a bunch of capacitors surrounded by purple waxy looking substance - I figured it was a sealer or something and I didnt touch it. Is it normal for this machine?

Yes.

Marc
 
Hey Marc,
Thanks for the suggestion on the caps. That's my next step. Also I have experienced the famous RS-1500 squealing counter problem. My solution to that was found in a Radio Shack precision lube pen with a teflon based lubricant. A little in the shaft that holds the belt pulley and no more squeal. Have you ever had any success in cleaning the level controls on your deck? Mine are a bit noisy but I have found getting de-ox into them is a bit tough.

All in All you are right, they are great decks.

The pots are relatively easy to get to. Remove the screws that hold the amplifier to the rest of the deck and just flip it down to gain access.

Marc
 
I have 3 RS-1520's and 1 RS-1506. All of them needed to have every switch and pot cleaned with DeOxit. THis stuff really is fairy dust. It is magic.

The switch on the headblocks of the RS reel to reels are very, very delicate. I can't even stress that enough. Most of them - and I do mean MOST of them - are already damaged, meaning that they feel loose. If this is the case then you will be in major trouble. The switch is housed inside the headblock and it will need to be disassembled if you need to get to it. When it becomes loose then it won't make good (or any) contack with the correct pins (2 track or 4 track playback). First reaction would be to spray some DeOxit in it and move the switch left and right and back again several times to let the fairy dust clean it. But if the switch is already feeling loose then all you will accomplish at this point is breaking the switch. Replacement or major surgery are next.

Be carefull. Check the switch for ay loosness or wobbly feel to it. When you spray it and flip it do so with very gentle force and don't allow it to "flex" away from being perfectly level. Then set it on the proper setting and leave it alone. You can solder the inside of the switch if it is broken but it requires disassembling the headblock and getting inside of it - not fun.

Once these units are cleaned and working correctly they are beautiful.

Jimmy


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