• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Project: Fisher RS-2010

Thanks for the write-up. I have to repair and recap my RS-2009, where one channel doesn't work. I am the original owner. I have the schematics, chassis layout diagrams, and parts list for the unit. I plan on completely recapping the electrolytic capacitors.

I am comfortable working on tube radios, but I've never worked on vintage transistorized gear. How do you check transistors and diodes for functionality? Can it be done in-circuit? My tools are limited to a volt-ohm-amp meter and a capacitor checker.

I have an inexpensive component checker... my Fluke 177 used in diode mode can be used to test BJTs. Most components should be tested out of circuit.
 
Finishing Up...

Here is the cap list I assembled = my hopes is that this might help someone who might elect to rebuild this set.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1A6FZ4NnxqyNGD_11rUcYS2kWawSJGfxI

The Top View:
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This is an impressive unit - the toroidal transformer should give you a feeling for the quality as well I like the external heatsinks.


Basically have addressed the weak spot of this unit = STK 0080 power packs. It should just be a matter of time until a non-working RS-2010 shows up. Depending on the price and condition - I would definite do it again. DC offset turned out acceptable at roughly 15mV per channel.

It sounds great + strong = thanks to RCS16 and the others for making a replacement of the STK.

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SuperNoob, you are decidedly NOT a noob. Your work (and photography) is beautiful. I have run away from anything with a power pack because I thought that when they expired they were unobtanium. This looks like one heck of a receiver, with everything a knob & meter freak like myself could want, so Yes, Virginia, there is an STK workaround. I'm also pleased to hear that one can replace caps on FM boards without bringing down the wrath of the alignment gods, because it's usually caps that go in these old receivers, not transistors (with notable exceptions, of course). Well documented, sir, and most welcome. Thank you so very much for creating this--dare I say--stunning--thread about a very cool receiver and a way to revive equipment with previously feared STK packs.
 
Thank you so very much for creating this--dare I say--stunning--thread about a very cool receiver and a way to revive equipment with previously feared STK

Thanks for the kind words... hope it inspires you to revive a 2010 and share your opinion. Worthy set indeed. Thanks to @rcs16 for his mad skills and brilliant mind.
 
I love my Fisher RS-2010!! It pairs well with my AR3a's and Dual turntables. When I have some downtime, I will upgrade my lamps to LEDs too!
 
Excelente trabajo, felicitaciones.

Soy Edison Aluisa de Ecuador, ¿no se si me puedes ayudar? tengo un fisher 2010 con problemas, te puedo enviar unas fotos para que me ayudes indicando que piezas le falta por favor. Muchas gracias de ante mano.
 
Bien ... No soy un gran mentor en lo que respecta a la resolución de problemas en Internet. El Fisher RS-2010 es una buena unidad; sin embargo, su área débil se relaciona con los paquetes de energía que ya no están disponibles. A menos que sea bueno leyendo esquemas y rastreando problemas, es mejor que se lo sirva a alguien que lo sea.
 
Just had to read this thread again---wonderful work and can-do energy. Makes it look easy but we at AK know that couldn't be further from the truth. I'm delighted to see something other than a 9090DB or an SX-1250 get the full Monty. Brilliant problem-solving on those STK's.
 
I had a RS-2010 when I was in high school, I worked all summer for it. I bought it instead of a car...I joined the US Army (11B Infantryman) and I sold it.
 
I can’t express how happy AKers are to have thoughtfully went through the effort, documented, and shared for the greater good.

I have an RS-2010 I’ve just promoted to primary unit. I’ve done the basics (LEDs, cleaned pots, switches) but stopped short of any recapping yet. It still sounds great but I feel like there’s likely something wrong because I can turn it up past the normal level 3 to get it to ‘normal’ (a notch below uncomfortable) listening levels. Currently at level 10 ( about 11 o’clock on the volume dial). I assume this means there’s something amiss in the power board or a bad transistor somewhere.

I was planning on preemptively recapping but now I plan to continue to use it normally until it stops working.
 

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I can’t express how happy AKers are to have thoughtfully went through the effort, documented, and shared for the greater good.

I have an RS-2010 I’ve just promoted to primary unit. I’ve done the basics (LEDs, cleaned pots, switches) but stopped short of any recapping yet. It still sounds great but I feel like there’s likely something wrong because I can turn it up past the normal level 3 to get it to ‘normal’ (a notch below uncomfortable) listening levels. Currently at level 10 ( about 11 o’clock on the volume dial). I assume this means there’s something amiss in the power board or a bad transistor somewhere.

I was planning on preemptively recapping but now I plan to continue to use it normally until it stops working.
I would shut it down before you blow it up. That's definitely not normal.
 
Power Amp Board:

Turns out that the left channel took out two (2) diodes, (2) transistors, (2) 3.6 zeners which where consumed in the process. I decided to recap the power board while I had it out. Replaced the toasted parts and could not get sound out of the left channel thought everything measured out good. Followed the sound to the relay = good on one side bad on the the other.

Relay Picture - think you see the problem:

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Picture of the amp board with new discrete STK boards mounted on the heat sinks. They look awesome - had to make some holes. Think it turned out great. Replace the relay and recapped the power board and everything is good. Dialed the bias up by adjusting to 38mV across both .47ohm resistors on each channel equaling to roughly 40mA bias.

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Searching for the Darlingtom Pack replacement board kits. What is the search term seller on EBAY??
 
That was one of my favorite receivers, it’s a beast but finding a clean unit is nearly impossible. Almost all were abused. I have an RS2004A which I’m currently using and have a spare which I’m either going to keep for parts or restore. Not sure if I’m as ambitious or my skill level is up to that heavy a restoration, I might just send it out to get done.
 
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