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Project: KR-8010

Super Noob

Super Member
Here is the current patient.

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My first Kenny. Power switch was not working. Wasn’t too hard to fix.

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Flipped the wiring to unused contacts, removed snubber, and install a TRAIC modification per ksparky. 2nd time doing this mod. Worked flawlessly.
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Full recap well underway. More to come.
 
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Here are the main filter caps.
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Tricky part are solder tabs. Went with 22,000uF in lieu of 18,000uF caps. Drilled off the old tabs and mechanically fastened to tabs of new cap tabs and soldered.
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Install 2.2uF bypass caps.
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New relay as well.
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New Power Supply Caps - Old
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New:
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Nice stuff. My 8010 has no wood and I really like the way it looks. I have never had to open mine up; so it was nice to see some nudies. Do you think you could provide a link to the triac conversion. I would like to read up on it. Thanks for an interesting thread.
 
Nice stuff. My 8010 has no wood and I really like the way it looks. I have never had to open mine up; so it was nice to see some nudies. Do you think you could provide a link to the triac conversion. I would like to read up on it. Thanks for an interesting thread.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/kenwood-kr-9600-upgrade-mods-and-restoration.764088/

There is a good picture / diagram from Echowars = in the link above.

TRIAC
576-Q6030LH5
and 100 ohm resistor (i go with 1/2 watt)

It is simple and the power opens via the gate of the Thyistor / TRIAC = no stress on the switch contacts.
 
Here are the AMP Boards:
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Outputs - no micas were on these... the heat sinks were isolated to frame with plastic mounts. I added micas anyways - just had to trim a bit to fit.
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Bias set to 50mV
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In the past I was running the 8010 in concert with the 1250 and it stood toe to toe with it for years. Nice job, enjoy.
 
Outputs - no micas were on these... the heat sinks were isolated to frame with plastic mounts. I added micas anyways -
Adding mica where not needed. Increases thermal resistance. And decreases thermal conductivity. Not the best idea.
 
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