I know this thread is ancient, but for the curious passerby...
1) If they haven't already had one, speakers of this age will certainly require a ferrofluid replacement. 75 ul of APG S15N is what you want to use. Tubes of this stuff are available as retrofit kits, etc etc for certain Tannoys. I've acquired tubes from Speaker Exchange for less than $25. Other sources exist.
I know, I know... Kef implemented ferrofluid in the T33's for cooling, not damping, but trust me, they will not sound remotely right without ferrofluid. Furthermore, without ferrofluid, you will blow them up the first time you crank them up. This is extremely common among proud "new" but clueless 104/2 owners. Afterwards, said owners typically switch out the T33's for morels, then proceed to convince themselves that the morels are superior to the T33's anyway in an effort to alleviate the agony of dropping $$$ on an equal or lesser product. But I digress...
Don't use the "general purpose" ferrofluid packets. These packets are most certainly *not* general purpose, and have about 2.5 times the viscosity called for by the Kef's. Been there, done that.
2) You will probably want the crossovers recapped. Exact capacitor replacements are still available from Falcon Acoustics, and I was able to get a complete set shipped here to the US from the UK for ~$35 total.
3) Heck, check to make sure your woofers are the correct woofers for the Coda III's!
Funny story, I had had my speakers for weeks and had been aware that one of the speakers had a noticeably different, less revealing timbre than the other. I had already done the recap, etc etc and was taking pictures with the grill covers off one day when I noticed for the first time that one of the woofers had a smooth cone, while the other was textured. Turned out that the smooth cone driver was an sp1200 out of a Kef C20. How the He** did that get in there, I thought. So I did a direct comparison of the drivers themselves, exposed side by side, switching them back and forth on the same crossover and found the difference in sound detail stunning. I'd guess the C20 woofer produced about half the detail that the B200 Coda woofer did. I suspect the crossover for the Coda might be heavily mismatched with the C20 driver. That, or the C20 driver just plain sucks.
Do these three things and you will not be disappointed. Kef's own description of them being "alive, dynamic, and thoroughly musical" is dead on. Bass frequencies don't go very low, but what bass they do produce is very defined and present and will floor ya. They are quite neutral and have amazing sonic clarity. I remember listening to George Winston's "Autumn" on them, an album quite familiar to me, and for the first time was able to discern, in very recognizable detail, the sounds of the piano stool creaking, things shifting and moving around in the studio, etc etc. I was stoked. Unbelievable sound stage as well. Not so fussy about placement and room acoustics, they've got my 102/2's beat when it comes to that.
You will often hear of Coda III's being compared to LS3/5a's. Detailed, accurate small speakers with just enough of their own special character at the fringes to make them especially pleasant to listen to. You will want to run them with a subwoofer... might I recommend Miller & Kreisel's VX-7? With the LP-1S to clean up the low end and make things cohesive? That's what I do.
Cheers.
