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Proper sealant adhesive for metal speaker cabinets?

Sansuiman

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I have a pair of Sansui J-11 mini bookshelf speakers (4" 2 way with 4' passive radiator) that are in aluminum cabinets. Recently, the rear panel on one separated from the rest of the cabinet, as the original factory adhesive failed. The factory had applied a bead of some sort of semi-pliable black adhesive/sealant. Was wondering if anyone had a solid recommendation on what to use to resemble these with. I suspect the other speaker will not be far behind, as the failure appears age related from a combination of shrinking/dessication and mechanical stress over time.
 
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I'd guess you want something quite strong and rigid but not so strong you'll never get them open again. Maybe a construction adhesive. Stix all, grip fill etc.
 
Appreciate the input so far. I'd prefer not to use something so permanent (i.e., epoxy) that it would be impossible to get them open again in the future if needed (such as access to the crossover). Also would prefer something more along the lines of what the factory used in consistency and appearance. Lexel had occured to me, but it's clear, and probably more pliable than what the factory used. I've have used Black Max before in installing auto glass, and considered it's potential suitability. Mostly wondered if anyone here had a specific product they'd used for a similar repair on a speaker cabinet.
 
Appreciate the input so far. I'd prefer not to use something so permanent (i.e., epoxy) that it would be impossible to get them open again in the future if needed (such as access to the crossover). Also would prefer something more along the lines of what the factory used in consistency and appearance. Lexel had occured to me, but it's clear, and probably more pliable than what the factory used. I've have used Black Max before in installing auto glass, and considered it's potential suitability. Mostly wondered if anyone here had a specific product they'd used for a similar repair on a speaker cabinet.

You know lexel? That's the really good stuff. Won't be peeling that off, and they do make a black version iirc.

It's not butyl is it?
 
I've used Lexel on other (non-audio) projects, didn't realize they made it in black. Though I guess the color doesn't matter, mentioned it mostly for reference, in case it helped determine what was originally used. What's existing strikes me as harder than butyl rubber caulk/sealant, which I've also worked with.
 
I've used Lexel on other (non-audio) projects, didn't realize they made it in black. Though I guess the color doesn't matter, mentioned it mostly for reference, in case it helped determine what was originally used. What's existing strikes me as harder than butyl rubber caulk/sealant, which I've also worked with.
Lexel is what other stuff tries to be, pricey but a very good product. Bonds to things others don't. I might be imagining the black, I'm a few years out of the loop.
 
Lexel is what other stuff tries to be, pricey but a very good product. Bonds to things others don't. I might be imagining the black, I'm a few years out of the loop.

I never heard of it before so I looked it up.
That is some impressive stuff. I'm thinking about stocking up on few tubes just to keep handy. The stuff I get here (Belize) is mostly crap.

There are only two choices on the Sashco website..white and clear.
 
@RVT1K, Be advised that Lexel has a limited shelf life. Much like urethane caulk, it will eventually dry out in the tube even if unopened. This makes sitting on a supply of it long term for "just in case" use a bit impractical.
 
@RVT1K, Be advised that Lexel has a limited shelf life. Much like urethane caulk, it will eventually dry out in the tube even if unopened. This makes sitting on a supply of it long term for "just in case" use a bit impractical.

Thanks for that!!

That is one of the biggest issues I have here, stuff being partially cured when I buy it.
 
FWIW, I would consider looking into using the typically black automotive adhesive used for adhering door rubbery gaskets on vehicles doors, as it seems to remain quite pliable for yrs. after proper curing, whilst exposed to wide thermal cycles, rain, etc. exposure, and shouldn`t be too difficult to break its bond if needed to re-access the joint`s panel for service, if the mating surfaces are properly cleaned beforehand.

As usual, just a suggestive thought recommendation.

Good luck, whatever path chosen.
 
That's probably either 3M weatherstrip adhesive, or Black Max you're thinking of. I've used both, and Black Max is probably more suited to the application, of the two.
 
@djnagle, the cabinets have a striated (brushed) finish with clear anodizing, and a matte black perforated steel grill (think Radio Shack Minimus 7). I actually have two pair, one of which the cabinets are pretty rough. I might consider polishing those out. The easier fix would be to just smooth them out enough that I could use brushed aluminum look vehicle wrap vinyl over them, which would more or less restore the original appearance (if one didn't look too closely).
 
Nice, I like the polished look. But it's probably a bit too flashy to fit the decor of the room in which I'm using these Sansui's. One of the reasons I picked these up to begin with is because I liked the brushed aluminum appearance, which is really pretty uncommon in a speaker system. These also do a little bit better in the low end response then minimus 7's and similar compact speakers, because they have the added passive radiator, and a slightly larger cabinet volume.

I also have a pair of Pro LX5, with the Linaeum tweeters. They're set aside for the moment as they need the original woofer surrounds replaced finally. I've contemplated painting them silver, as the stock finish is that rather drab late 90's matte charcoal grey that was so pervasive at the time. Jury is out on that yet, but I will at least fix the woofers sooner or later.
 
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