markshan
Sir Thrift a Lot
How about a picture of the back when it is removed?
Edit: I didn't notice the attachments at the bottom. Never mind.
Last edited:
Protection for irreplaceable tweeters
- Thread starter resoundpdx
- Start date
Edit: I didn't notice the attachments at the bottom. Never mind.
Those look almost exactly like the tweeters in my Sony SS-3300 speakers that I had to replace. Also the same basic design as the tweeters in Sansui SP-2000’s I believe. Part number T-200 in the Sansui’s maybe? There are some variations with the same design, but you could start there if you’re looking for backups. All made by Coral I believe.
Edit: T-200’s are 16 ohm, but I remember seeing similar 8ohm tweeters from Sansui models when I was searching for my replacements.
Edit: T-200’s are 16 ohm, but I remember seeing similar 8ohm tweeters from Sansui models when I was searching for my replacements.
markshan
Sir Thrift a Lot
I didn't find diaphragms for that model, but I did find a Japanese auction for a pair with a day left...
https://translate.google.com/transl...tem/search/category/2084059815?lang=en&anno=2
https://translate.google.com/transl...tem/search/category/2084059815?lang=en&anno=2
A400
Well-Known Member
The tweeters look a lot like ones used in some Sansui and Akai speakers I have. As per bberkom I'm fairly sure the drivers were made by Coral, utilizing a very small and fine voice coil on a plastic diaphragm, so it is a fairly conventional design. Five out of the six I have have been blown and the faulty one I have fully dismantled had a broken voice coil wire.
In my experience you are right to be very cautious with this type of driver.
In my experience you are right to be very cautious with this type of driver.
elnaldo
Lunatic Member
I'd use less than 1A. Something between 0.5 and 0.75 A not larger.
If you go for a polyswitch (what I use in my test speakers), keep in mind that the "trip" current of a polyswitch is twice its rated value, so a "0.5A" polyswitch will trip at 1A. You need a 0.25 A polyswitch to be sure it will trip at 0.5A. The nominal value of the polyswitch is the current at wich it won't trip.
If you go for a polyswitch (what I use in my test speakers), keep in mind that the "trip" current of a polyswitch is twice its rated value, so a "0.5A" polyswitch will trip at 1A. You need a 0.25 A polyswitch to be sure it will trip at 0.5A. The nominal value of the polyswitch is the current at wich it won't trip.
Mike Drago
New Member
I don’t think a fuse will protect from clipping, the amp cannot make anymore power and produces a distorted signal that tweeters hate.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
The voltage is not a concern, either will work.
Consider the crossover frequency as power in music drops as the frequency goes up. Dahlquist has a 0.8A fuse on the tweeter in the DQ-10 and it’s frequency range is 6000 to 12000 Hz based on the crossover points so there is a bit more than that as the ends roll off from those frequencies.
Consider the crossover frequency as power in music drops as the frequency goes up. Dahlquist has a 0.8A fuse on the tweeter in the DQ-10 and it’s frequency range is 6000 to 12000 Hz based on the crossover points so there is a bit more than that as the ends roll off from those frequencies.