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PS-2250 and SP10-II issues

Cesari0

Cesari0

Active Member
Hi everyone, it's been a while since I have posted here. I have accumulated a few projects, and I have taken on 2 more turntable projects.

I have issues with two turntables, one I think it's an easy solution the other seems a bit more complex. And I'm really hoping to get some help from the members on this forum since they form an incredible pool of knowledge and solutions.

**Easy: I just acquired a Technics SP10-II. The issue is the stop/start button is not working. I have opened the unit and it appeared as if some liquid fell on the switch, I sprayed the mini micro switch with deoxit, but it didn't work. And the button does not stop the turntable. I would like to know the difficulty level of acquiring the micro switch, as I'm sure acquiring start/stop assembly is impossible. The turntable runs when the power supply unit is turned on.

Complex: I have had a Sony PS-2250 for a few months, it was playing fine, but I knew I had to check the oil lever, and there's only one way to do that, which is to disassemble the motor. I carefully took the motor apart, the bearing was bone dry, even the sponge around the bearing to absorb over fill was dry (the turntable kept proper speed though).

When I reassembled the motor after properly filling the well with a thin oil, the motor would start fast, it looked like it was about to come to proper speed, then it would shoot fast again. I had read that using thin oil on this turntable has some adverse consequences, so I took the motor apart again, dried the bearing, reassembled the motor, but the turntable keeps on shooting after slowing down to almost proper speed.

I would like to know if I ruined this unit, if I did it would be quite a shame since this turntable was quite superb with it's original arm. I'm about to order some caps online, I'm not sure if recapping it works will solve the issue since it wasn't there when I took the motor apart.

Any suggestions, solutions or opinions on these two turntables will be greatly appreciated.
 
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As to your Sony PS-2250 I can say your issue is not the oil viscosity you refilled
the bearing with, I have used the original oil supplied for the bearing in the TTS-2250
"drive only" and it was quite thin.
This series of Sony's use an amazing motor design for the time.
 
Possible the SP-10 was a former broadcast table and some of them had the on/off switch deactivated and the tables operated from a remote or always stayed on via the power cord. This was done to eliminate the chance of accidental shut off while playing on the air.
 
Hi thanks for the replies.

I recapped both the SP10 and SH10. I even replaced the switch... and the unit would not stop. I'm not sure if it was studio unit, since there's no sign of mods.

I'm going to recap the PS2250, hopefully the speed fluctuations are rectified with new caps
 
Cesari0 said:
I recapped the PS-2250, sadly the speed issue was not rectified.
Click to expand...

Have you done a search on AK for your speed issue?
I recall others who had the same problem even with recapping, note the PS and TTS used the same motor and controls.
 
The belt can make a big difference on this table. The one I ordered for it is too slow. Ordered a second one, with the same results. I ended up sending it to my tech, who eventually tried another belt, and it worked. So when I got it back, I went through my belt collection and found one about an inch shorter that worked great!
 
totem said:
Have you done a search on AK for your speed issue?
I recall others who had the same problem even with recapping, note the PS and TTS used the same motor and controls.
Click to expand...


I have been thinking about this table this last week. It has just been sitting there. So I cleaned the motor, and all the parts, just incase oil got somewhere where it was causing any issues.

As the motor sat in pieces, I figured that it can't be the motor. I couldn't see the motor fluctuating like that.

Then I realized that the inner platter has a black ring attached to it, and the ring is loose. I removed the ring and the platter just shot... fast!.

So now I believe the loose ring is creating the speed fluctuation.

My question is, does anyone know what I should use to secure the black ring to the inner platter. Loctite didn't work, I'm not sure if I should glue it.

Here are a pic of what I'm referring to.
 

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After looking at your pictures I thought something looked odd, I removed my 2250 plater and its not quite the same.
The underside is painted black without ribs, additionally you seem to be missing or perhaps you removed the spindle
oiling threaded cap.
 
totem said:
After looking at your pictures I thought something looked odd, I removed my 2250 plater and its not quite the same.
The underside is painted black without ribs, additionally you seem to be missing or perhaps you removed the spindle
oiling threaded cap.
Click to expand...

It looks like he pulled the little subplatter. That black ring is the magnet for the frequency generator. Without it the motor will speed up infinitely (until it runs out of capability) as the speed control will think the motor is at a dead stop and go to WFO.

Be very careful with that ring. Chances are that damaging it means a hooped table.

If the ring was not consistently spinning with the platter that could explain the speed issues.

@OP - you know you oil these through the hole in the center of the spindle right?
 
@EngineerNate Yes, I knew that that's where the oil gets refilled, but I wanted to inspect the inside of the bearing to see the condition, and clean it.

So, fixing the black ring on to the subplatter didn't do the trick, I'm sure it helped since the ring is not loose any more. But after fixing the ring the platter did what it was doing before, it would never settle on speed, it was what I can call "pulsing", slowed down, then shoot fast, slow own, and shoot fast.

So today, I said F'it, the turntable is done, I might as well try something I've consider my last option, if it fails, the TT is already broken... so I decided to put liquid electrical tape on the wire wounding around the motor. I let it dry, put the motor back together... and...Voilà.... baby is not "pulsing" any more.. I set the speed with the controls underneath. And I'm back to the TT being as good as new, since I already changed the caps.

I hope this if of any help to anyone.

And thanks for your help... score one for the good guys :)

**edit** Through help of other members, in another thread I managed to remove a jumper that had disabled the start/stop button on the SP10II, and now I have fixed the PS2250... I'm all smiles now.
 
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