• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Quality of tubes

canuckaudiog

On a quest for high fidelity
Hey guys,

Question for you. Since I have now finally taken my step into the tube world, I'm wondering if different manufacturers of tubes have different quality? Like is one 6L6 tube different in quality from the other?

I'm already thinking about upgrading the tubes on my new amplifier and I'm thinking it might be a good idea to get some high quality ones if that exists.

Thanks!
 
Register to hide this ad
Your amp can use any of the power tubes listed on the Tube Depot page for sure (see bottom link). Hard to go wrong with Gold Lion KT-77s. Your link above shows the amp can run lots of different power tubes and driver tubes.

Power tubes:6P3P, 6L6, KT66, 5881, EL34, 6CA7, KT77, KT88, 6550

Driver tubes: 6SJ7, 5693, 6SK7, 6SD7, 6J8P, 6*8

I run JAN Phillips 6SJ7WGT driver tubes in my MKII version of your amp. These sounded the best to me. Am also running Gold Lion KT66 power tubes.

Jim McShane stands behind the Gold Lion reissue tubes and does a good job of testing/matching them beforehand.

http://www.tubedepot.com/el346ca7.html?gclid=CN_A9dDssaECFUI65QodQGt0_Q
 
+1 on Jim McShane.

The most important thing to consider when buying tubes is proper/accurate testing and with power tubes proper/accurate testing as well as a real voltage- amperage burn in process to weed out defective or borderline tubes. Jim does all of the above and stands behind his product. :thmbsp:

For the money it is hard to beat the 6P3S-Es that Jim stocks. :yes:
 
Last edited:
I've found that the driver tubes have more of an impact on sound that the power tubes, but if you are using 6J8P drivers that might be a hard sub to find.
 
Thanks for your replies, much appreciated!

Well I guess my main concern if I am going to tube roll at this point is finding something better. I know I know, the whole fun of this is to try something new. However I'm limited on funds and if I get a tube I don't like, I'm worried I won't be able to get my money back.

It's understandable if that's something that's pretty hard to avoid though.

So I guess I should ask is, if I like the 6L6 so much on my IMF TLS 80's, what else should I try?
 
Exactly which 6L6s are you running right now? There's different sounds to different ones, so that info (and what you're seeking to enhance) would help the guys out.
 
Last edited:
They are 6l6gc, shuguang brand.

Those are the big boys..

"It's a true heavyweight, with 500 volt at 30 watt plate ratings, and 450 volt at 5 watt screen specs! This tube will replace virtually any of the other 6L6 tube types. These are found in straight sided glass packages, and most are no older than the late 1950s as this tube has not been around all that long. This is the only type being currently made today, but caution is advised if your amp puts nearly the max voltage on plate or screen as some of the modern tubes may arc over. You may find that only NOS versions will work in your amp. The most desirable of these tubes is probably the RCA blackplate, which was only produced until the later 1960s, however other NOS greyplate USA made versions are excellent and still available."

I'm not sure about some of the other subs, but you need to be sure that they tubes you sub can handle the circuit. 6L6GA and 6L6GB would not be good fits, as they are only rated to 360V. You can put the GCs in lesser circuits, but you can't place lesser tubes in the GCs beefier circuit.

Here's some more info...

http://tctubes.com/6l6gc-kt66-5881-5932.aspx
 
Last edited:
be careful about tube swapping and substitutions. a couple of complexities if you deviate from stock recommended tubes....

1.) some tube type draw more power....a kt-88 draws more current than a 6550 which draws more current than a el34 which draws more current than a 6l6. can your gear take the exrtra power demand. any fuse changes needed?

2.) even amoung a tube type, like an 6l6, el-34. 6550, kt-88, there are variations in current draw. Some manufactures refer to this as early normal or late distortion.

3.) tube swaps are not plug and play. you need a way to check the bias settings

4.) assuming of course someone tested the tubes for you

5.) becareful with NOS. NOS used to mean New Old Stock. Now, NOS can be anything.....you will frequently find sellers who use cheap tube testers and grade their highly used power tubes as "test loke NOS". Or they will say "I bought these as NOS, but have no way to confirm, so they are sold accordingly"
 
Sure, why not?

There's some nice comments out there on those tubes, so why not give them a chance before you go looking for something else?

I definitely really love the sound of this amp and these tubes. I tried a 6550 when the guy brought it over and it just wasn't warm and musical like I liked about the 6L6GC.

What I'd like to know though is if there are better quality 6L6GC tubes, as in, should I get something better made or is it really going to make almost no difference at this point? Doing a quick eBay search shows these are cheap tubes from china. I'm wondering if perhaps there is a better quality made 6L6GC, and if it would make any difference, say in reliability or sonics?
 
Guys, correct me if I am wrong, but if the OP is starting to think about tube rolling, isn't it true that preamp tube rolling can yield bigger results than power tube rolling? Maybe this could lean you in a smarter direction regarding your new amp and tube rolling.
 
Guys, correct me if I am wrong, but if the OP is starting to think about tube rolling, isn't it true that preamp tube rolling can yield bigger results than power tube rolling? Maybe this could lean you in a smarter direction regarding your new amp and tube rolling.

You are the second to mention this, so that might not be a bad way to go. It uses 6J8P pre-amp tubes.
 
Back
Top Bottom