Questions on recapping Sansui speakers SP-2000 and Sp-2500

[dly66]

I used those yellow end Daytons pictured on my SP-200. Bass performance was good surrounds seemed fine after 50+ years. Mine are on about 1 foot tall stands have found shifting a speaker around can change the low end response. Often only have to shift around in a 6"-1' circle to make noticeable differences. Usually more often just a few inch shift does the trick. Usually with a wall behind closer to the wall reinforces the low end and away lessens. After recapping they sound pretty balanced. Sounded a lot better than I expected, being late 60s Alnico driver technology. Especially when teamed up with the similar vintage restored 5000A with the F-1040 driver boards in it. Currently still in the living room setup.

Some vintage amp circuits thump the low end more than others may have to shift the speakers a bit to get a more balanced sound.

Used the yellow Daytons love the sound of my KLH 17 in the workroom. Tight cozy environment, almost always physically within 3-4 ft of both speakers. Enjoy the sound of those guys listening that close.

 

[billyz]

I used those yellow end Daytons pictured on my SP-200. Bass performance was good surrounds seemed fine after 50+ years. Mine are on about 1 foot tall stands have found shifting a speaker around can change the low end response. Often only have to shift around in a 6"-1' circle to make noticeable differences. Usually more often just a few inch shift does the trick. Usually with a wall behind closer to the wall reinforces the low end and away lessens. After recapping they sound pretty balanced. Sounded a lot better than I expected, being late 60s Alnico driver technology. Especially when teamed up with the similar vintage restored 5000A with the F-1040 driver boards in it. Currently still in the living room setup.

Some vintage amp circuits thump the low end more than others may have to shift the speakers a bit to get a more balanced sound.

Used the yellow Daytons love the sound of my KLH 17 in the workroom. Tight cozy environment, almost always physically within 3-4 ft of both speakers. Enjoy the sound of those guys listening that close.

My experience as well .

 

[DatGtrPlaR]

Okay! Ordered some Dayton caps from parts express. Thanks for all your help!

 

[archibael]

You've inspired me to recap my SP-300s now.

 

[Dvanamps]

I have a pair of Sansui SP-2000 and 2500’s that I want to recap. The capacitors are bipolar axial on the 2000

View attachment 2444122
and nonpolar axial on the 2500

View attachment 2444125
would polarized axial caps of the same value work or no? what would be a good replacement for these?

Just checked my SP 2500, they are actually bi-polar caps by the looks of things. They sound great however have started to develop a crackle/distortion in the right speaker. Any suggestions on how best to proceed?

 

[Dvanamps]

My dad has a set of 2500's that I redid with Mundorf Films, Made a pretty pronounced difference. Yeah, they're not bass heavy speakers and they don't dig too deep, but nice non fatiguing sound for a high efficiency speaker.

Any pictures of this perhaps? Many thanks

 

[billyz]

Just checked my SP 2500, they are actually bi-polar caps by the looks of things. They sound great however have started to develop a crackle/distortion in the right speaker. Any suggestions on how best to proceed?

I would definitely use film caps . I would be astonished if the original bi polar or non polar caps are even close to spec. Be sure to deoxit your selector switches too. Inspect and or retouch the solder connections. Your crackle should be gone.

 

[billyz]

Also, you can listen to the individual drivers by using a cardboard tube to your ear and close to each individual driver.

 

[Dvanamps]

Also, you can listen to the individual drivers by using a cardboard tube to your ear and close to each individual driver.

Thanks for the tips and advise!

Another quick question from a beginner here, if I replace the existing caps for something with a larger “v value” will this effect the circuit? For example in this case the existing caps read 2.2uf 35v but the ones I plan to replace them with read 2.2uf 250v, will this cause issue?

Many thanks again,

Dan

 

[billyz]

Thanks for the tips and advise!

Another quick question from a beginner here, if I replace the existing caps for something with a larger “v value” will this effect the circuit? For example in this case the existing caps read 2.2uf 35v but the ones I plan to replace them with read 2.2uf 250v, will this cause issue?

Many thanks again,

Dan

You can increase the voltage rating but not the capacitance rating, to maintain the same crossover point.

 

[billyz]

For the SP 2500 crossover it is easier to clip the capacitors out , leaving a long tail wire still connected to the pcb board. Then wrap and solder the new capacitor to the existing tail wires. Otherwise you will need to do some work to get to the back side of the board to desolder and resolder the new capacitors in.

 

[Dvanamps]

For the SP 2500 crossover it is easier to clip the capacitors out , leaving a long tail wire still connected to the pcb board. Then wrap and solder the new capacitor to the existing tail wires. Otherwise you will need to do some work to get to the back side of the board to desolder and resolder the new capacitors in.

Excellent thanks again for the help, I have some Monacor caps on the way, will keep you posted and let you know how it goes!

 

[Dvanamps]

So I did it, the hard way! No half measures here haha. I desoldered the terminal posts and removed the circuit board completely before proceeding with the recap.

The hardest part was removing the old caps from the rock-hard hot glue/adhesive. Once removed I spent some time filing down the remains to an acceptable height.

Followed by cleaning up and removing all
old solder on points. Then wired in the new caps and cleaned the L-pads before reinstalling.

In terms of sound I am very pleased with the results. My right channel speaker has come back to life completely. Vast improvement across the full dynamic range, more thud from the bass, mids and highs are pulled forward considerably and stand out much more than before! If anything the HF is a bit harsh but I presume they will settle in with time.

Would highly recommend this on a pair of 2500s purely due to age alone.

Thanks again to everyone for the help, tips and advise. Images of process attached.

 

[blkout50]

So I did it, the hard way! No half measures here haha. I desoldered the terminal posts and removed the circuit board completely before proceeding with the recap.

The hardest part was removing the old caps from the rock-hard hot glue/adhesive. Once removed I spent some time filing down the remains to an acceptable height.

Followed by cleaning up and removing all
old solder on points. Then wired in the new caps and cleaned the L-pads before reinstalling.

In terms of sound I am very pleased with the results. My right channel speaker has come back to life completely. Vast improvement across the full dynamic range, more thud from the bass, mids and highs are pulled forward considerably and stand out much more than before! If anything the HF is a bit harsh but I presume they will settle in with time.

Would highly recommend this on a pair of 2500s purely due to age alone.

Thanks again to everyone for the help, tips and advise. Images of process attached.

Great job!

I am getting ready to recap my SP-2500X’s. I have been researching crossover capacitors since I am not sure which brand to use. I found Humble Homemade HiFi website on speaker capacitors (interesting read). I went down the rabbit hole... now I am more confused than ever on which capacitor brand to purchase. I have spent waaaay too much time researching crossover caps...

On a side note: Humble Homemade HiFi rates the Monacor caps as very good!!

Quick question, who did you purchase your Monacor caps from??

Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

[Dvanamps]

Hi Mike,

Yes I feel you, making a decision when it comes to components can be endless. In the end I opted for the Monacor caps as they meet the ratings I was looking for, fit the crossover for replacement and are fairly reasonable priced.

I ordered mine through a company called Crinklewood Electronics as based in the UK.

Hope this helps and let us know how you get on!

 

[dietz31684]

I'm bumping this thread instead of making a new one. This seems pretty straight forward, but it's my first time replacing caps and I want to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff due to the $10 shipping from PE. The shipping makes returns cost prohibitive, then I'd have to reorder the correct stuff and pay shipping again (been there, done that when I ordered an incorrect cheap woofer).

Looking to recap a pair of SP-2500 crossovers. I've attached a photo of my crossover (same as others in this thread, but I pulled one to make sure) and a screenshot of what I plan to purchase from PE. Just want a quick verification before I order. Based on other threads I went with the poly caps as the price difference from electrolytic is insignificant. Any opinion on poly vs electrolytic given it was designed with electrolytic?

Thanks in advance.

 

[CrSens]

It might sound slightly brighter with poly caps (it was designed with electrolytic), but also cleaner, so your decision.
I usually keep the electrolytics, just put good ones (brand name you heard somewhere).