gonzothegreat
Super Member
You might want to stock up on incandescent bulbs now that CFLs are becoming the norm. I recently had to test a low-wattage device and couldn't find a 60w incandescent until I stole one from the overhead stove light. 
Quick lightbulb test jig
- Thread starter gonzothegreat
- Start date
Test Unit Bulb Safety
Bulb Safety
The construction of a Series Lamp unit is quite simple but Please, Please put a protective shield around your bulb on your “Series Test Lamp” / “Dim Bulb Tester” / “Poor Man’s Variac.”
I'm an electrician & I have been involved with the tragic consequences of bulbs without shields.
My father (also an electrician) wired an Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker / Safety Switch / Ground Fault Interrupter (same thing different names around the world) at a residence. The resident also wanted to fit one on the shed but wouldn't until he got permission from the trust fund that ran the farm side of the property.
An hour or so after my father left the gentleman climbed onto a truck with a lead light that was missing the shield. He bumped the bulb against the metal back, shattered the glass & the live filament holder sticking out touched the truck back & he was killed.
His wife was almost shocked when she came to check on him. He probably would be alive today if he had plugged the light into his house power. Instead a simple, cheap light bulb left his wife to raise several small children on her own.
A broken bulb will have the metal arms that hold the filament sticking out ready to fry you. One will be Live / Hot / Active & the other Neutral / Cold. Please fit either a metal cage from a lead light or a PVC pipe collar with a few holes drilled in it for visibility & cooling.
A little mechanical protection could save a fatality or serious shock. This is especially important on lamps that are portable or easily knocked over.
Regards,
Brian.
Bulb Safety
The construction of a Series Lamp unit is quite simple but Please, Please put a protective shield around your bulb on your “Series Test Lamp” / “Dim Bulb Tester” / “Poor Man’s Variac.”
I'm an electrician & I have been involved with the tragic consequences of bulbs without shields.
My father (also an electrician) wired an Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker / Safety Switch / Ground Fault Interrupter (same thing different names around the world) at a residence. The resident also wanted to fit one on the shed but wouldn't until he got permission from the trust fund that ran the farm side of the property.
An hour or so after my father left the gentleman climbed onto a truck with a lead light that was missing the shield. He bumped the bulb against the metal back, shattered the glass & the live filament holder sticking out touched the truck back & he was killed.
His wife was almost shocked when she came to check on him. He probably would be alive today if he had plugged the light into his house power. Instead a simple, cheap light bulb left his wife to raise several small children on her own.
A broken bulb will have the metal arms that hold the filament sticking out ready to fry you. One will be Live / Hot / Active & the other Neutral / Cold. Please fit either a metal cage from a lead light or a PVC pipe collar with a few holes drilled in it for visibility & cooling.
A little mechanical protection could save a fatality or serious shock. This is especially important on lamps that are portable or easily knocked over.
Regards,
Brian.
Excellent point , particularly because home brewed devices are often cobbled together with little or no thought given to the -safety- aspect.
In addition to the above advice ( but not in place of it) I'd add it's probably a good idea to used coated bulbs in test lights/ trouble lights. Even if the glass on the bulb breaks, the coating holds the glass pieces in place. Helps keep "live" elements contained, and keeps glass from going everywhere.
For the person who likes to keep their test bench clear of clutter, maybe a porch light could be used, mounted on the wall, up out of harms way. The on/off switch and receptacle for the piece to be tested could be placed at a convenient height for use.
devoid
NA Volvos and Amplifiers
To me a busted bulb on the bench is pretty friggin obvious. And I think the nude chassis under the knife is a bit more of a concern. Anyhow for a cheap current limiter take an old extension cord and table lamp. Cut the hot wire of the extension cord at mid length. Remove the lamp's cord and replace with the butchered extension cord.