R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog

[ngen33r]

Hello All

I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!



The main issue that I see with these is a thermal failure. The parts were placed too close together and since almost everyone is too lazy to switch them off when not using them the capacitors just cook and then things start to burn up.



ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!

 

[ngen33r]

R-115SW plate serial number LK162600399



On this amp the power would not stay on. There were some burned components and one of the capacitors almost achieved liftoff. I would guess it went with a bang and at a minimum scarred the hell out of the cat. All of the Ketuo (how do you even say that?) caps were removed and promptly launched into the garbage bin. The resistor achieved meltdown and was replaced with a flameproof safety resistor and spaced as far as possible from the new caps. The fet was also replaced and spaced higher off the board to help with cooling.



This is a classic case of subwoofer left powered on 24/7. 5W of power at idle is 5W of heat inside a closed chamber with no air movement. Turn your equipment off when not in use or if you MUST be lazy, install a smart outlet that at least powers off when you are sleeping and working. Some silicone to secure the parts and this one is completed.

 

[ngen33r]

R-112SW plate serial number LH150400882


Had some time tonight to complete another one of these. Repair and full recap. R39 had a meltdown and dried up a few caps and killed the PWM controller power supply. I gooped it pretty good with silicone to dampen the stress on the solder joints so I can let the hot parts breathe a little.

 

[phil916]

Hello thanks for this repair feedback

I'm fighting with a recent corrected (already have 10W resistor flat on circuit) R-115SW which has no power supply
+-15V +-62V !
only the 5V is present, amp board disconnected give same result.

U50 VCC powered ok with 17V then dropping to supposed standby 11V

I have 320VDC to mosfet D then nothing, less than volt on G and S
i'm looking for a way to test SSC9522S or better ideas to resurect this power supply board.
seems to me problem is on his startup control side which is not triggering...

is there a service manual, schematic and/or someone who can help me understanding how this power supply work please ?

thanks,

 

[Raffaspa]

Hi, I'm having the same problem with a model just like the one you're talking about. I've checked that the integrated circuit is getting power, and it is, it's getting 14.8V. I do notice that the first moment I turn it on, the power supply starts to oscillate, but something must be causing it to protect itself. Did you manage to figure out what's wrong with yours?

 

[phil916]

hello,

still looking for schematics

 

[Raffaspa]

Hello thanks for this repair feedback

I'm fighting with a recent corrected (already have 10W resistor flat on circuit) R-115SW which has no power supply
+-15V +-62V !
only the 5V is present, amp board disconnected give same result.

U50 VCC powered ok with 17V then dropping to supposed standby 11V

I have 320VDC to mosfet D then nothing, less than volt on G and S
i'm looking for a way to test SSC9522S or better ideas to resurect this power supply board.
seems to me problem is on his startup control side which is not triggering...

is there a service manual, schematic and/or someone who can help me understanding how this power supply work please ?

thanks,

The problem was C11 68nF, I read a value of 1.2nF.

I replaced it and it worked.

 

[mariobouras]

Hello All

I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!



The main issue that I see with these is a thermal failure. The parts were placed too close together and since almost everyone is too lazy to switch them off when not using them the capacitors just cook and then things start to burn up.



ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!

Hello, do you have a service manual or schematic for the Klipsch R-115SW ? I need values for the zener diodes or a parts list