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Radian 475-PB8 for temp replacement in Altec 19's?

I can solder and have a pretty good iron with adjustable temp.....can this repair be cleaned up?
 
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As a matter of fact it can. Got that old solder off there, cleaned it up and re-soldered the leads together. Encased the repair in hot glue and it sounds great. Now the Radian driver is freed up for my upcoming AE TD15M/Radian 475 build. :)
 
dgwojo said:
Yes, that's a repaired diaphragm. I have to say, I love those Radians, one thing to try, reverse the polarity on the wiring to the Radian, based on your description of the sound compare it sounds out of phase to me, please update us!! :sigh:
Click to expand...

Resurrecting an old thread here... I'm trying these Radian diaphragms on a pair of 605's, and I'm a bit confused about the wiring. Should the L1 tap connect to the marked red (positive?) on the diaphragm? According to Altec literature, L2 is positive, but that would mean reversing the leads for the Radian....
 
Hi,
I usually take a AA or AAA battery and "momentarily" attach it to the the diaphragm input terminals, correct polarity is when the diaphragm gets sucked in or forward toward the horn (opposite of how a woofer reacts), observe which lead is attached to the positive on the battery. If polarity is reversed, the diaphragm will push away from the magnet and horn throat. I use a red marker on the input lugs once positive is confirmed, L1 and L2 terminology gets a little confusing, L1 on horns (compression drivers) it's usually negative and on woofers positive, it's all about which polarity will cause forward movement toward the front of the speaker, confused yet?

 
dgwojo said:
Hi,
I usually take a AA or AAA battery and "momentarily" attach it to the the diaphragm input terminals, correct polarity is when the diaphragm gets sucked in or forward toward the horn (opposite of how a woofer reacts), observe which lead is attached to the positive on the battery. If polarity is reversed, the diaphragm will push away from the magnet and horn throat. I use a red marker on the input lugs once positive is confirmed, L1 and L2 terminology gets a little confusing, L1 on horns (compression drivers) it's usually negative and on woofers positive, it's all about which polarity will cause forward movement toward the front of the speaker, confused yet?

Click to expand...

After letting this marinate for a little, this actually does make sense to me, thank you for the explanation!! So it seems that I should follow the Altec literature and connect positive to L2.
 
Hi,
You should confirm the polarity, I found some nonAltec diaphragms reverse the polarity, the AA battery test is best to confirm polarity. I’ve also had drivers with reverse polarity on the magnets, Great Plains Audio was able to discharge and remagnetize for correct polarity, let us know how you make out, be careful of those strong magnetic fields, I use brass screwdrivers to avoid damage, Dave.
 
Tom Brennan said:
I'm not surprised the 475s were pleasing, one of the finest horns I heard were early Unitys at Tom Danley's house when he was using the 475. As I recall he got away from the 475 in production use because it wasn't robust enough for his professional use but he liked the sound and the tested response very much.

The Radians are true "Southern California" drivers with a developmental link back to Emilar and Altec. They are grandchildren of Jim Lansing and John Hilliard, the Poseiden and Zeus of the Great Southern California Horn Gods.
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The link there would be Jonas Renkus, who was joined at Emilar by his son Aldus Renkus. Jonas worked with John Hilliard, at Altec in the beginning, and the Emilar technology was later used by Radian in the design of their diaphragms and drivers.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Man I wish Radian still made diaphragms for the Emilar EA/EC drivers. And I wish someone (anyone?) would make some diaphragms for the Renkus SSD drivers.
I imagine the market for those diaphragms is pretty small though.
 
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