Re-capping a Pioneer CT-F1000
- Thread starter pustelniakr
- Start date
pustelniakr said:
I thought that you had come up with a glue to glue those broken parts together?
markthefixer said:
The ramifications of telling someone to glue parts to a very delicate assembly, is more than I wish to assume responsibility for. A little glue in the wrong place and you have a paper-weight.
I don't have one of these units open for transport rebuild, and have several AK commissions in progress at the moment. I will consider including the FF/REW idler rebuild as either a separate DIY thread, or include it in the "Transport Rebuild" thread I'm planning...
The glue that works pretty well for nylon is "Plastic Surgery" by Surehold, available at ACE Hardware. It is a Cyanoacrylate (super glue type), so it will not like extreme cold, and I don't expect that it will have a real great shear strength or tolerate mechanical shock very well. It should be OK for this assembly though. I cannot recommend the gluing without detailed instructions (maybe to come in a DIY thread, later).
Rich P
That's right :withstpd:
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cabinover said:
The idler, when the split has been properly dealt with, is a stand-alone assembly. You should be able to hold it in your hand as a unit. The problem caused by the split, is that, when you remove the assembly from the unit, it wants to push apart. the clutch spring pressure must be limited to the interior of the assembly, only. The spring should cause the friction disc to press on the clutch pad. If the clutch spring tends to push the assembly apart, then the spring pressure will cause the whole idler/clutch assembly to bind on its shaft.
Bottom line: The assembly top-hat (so to speak) should press on and retain due to friction fit.
Rich P
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cabinover
Dazed and Confused
I'll say it wants to push apart, do you know how far one of those miniature e-clips can go under that spring pressure? It wasn't a funny sight (least not to me anyways)
Other than the felt clutch pad replacement, I really don't see why the whole assembly would need to come apart. I guess what I'm saying is for the amount that I play cassettes I could probably glue the whole assy. and be done with it.
Other than the felt clutch pad replacement, I really don't see why the whole assembly would need to come apart. I guess what I'm saying is for the amount that I play cassettes I could probably glue the whole assy. and be done with it.
cabinover said:
I would try to fix the split first. Reserve bridge burning for a last resort. As I said, "Plastic Surgery" by Surehold, available at Ace Hardware, will stick to nylon. Nothing else I've tried will stick to it.
I haven't encountered a clutch pad that needed replacement, but I'm sure some have needed it.
Be careful.
Rich P
cabinover said:
markthefixer said:
Ok I've bit my tongue long enough. I have included links to two threads below, where I thought I had a fix, that was reverseable, for this problem. I freely admit that the fix is not perfect, as it does NOTHING to prevent the clutch pressure from being transmitted to the wrong places. The increased pressure in the wrong place dictates that more force is needed to drive that idler to get a ff/rew going, so a heavier spring is needed. The homemade plastic washer is used to increase a clearance that prevents the plastic assembly from binding on the metal arm it is mounted to, as well as provide a bit of friction relief.
I wrote those posts last summer and fall, and I have learned things since then. I have not yet opened up my 2 ct-f9191's to apply the new stuff I have learned. This new stuff I have learned is courtesy of pustelniakr (thank you , Rich, if I never said it....). There are threads discussing this problem and solutions in this forum. This will get you going BUT it is NOT recommended for long term or HEAVY usage.
link to imperfect but REVERSIBLE fix
link to later thread discussing new info
If you are serious you will read both threads all the way through. It does take a little patience... sorry if I'm a little long winded....
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MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
CTF 1000 Drive parts
Guys
I have a CFT 1000 that plays fine but has trouble with rewind. Checking this out it looks like it just needs fresh rubber.
If I clean the rollers its fine for a good while.
I was wondering do you guys know of a scource for rubber parts ?
bob
Guys
I have a CFT 1000 that plays fine but has trouble with rewind. Checking this out it looks like it just needs fresh rubber.
If I clean the rollers its fine for a good while.
I was wondering do you guys know of a scource for rubber parts ?
bob
Wjoe (wjoe.com) can provide the fast mode motor drive pulley tire and it is a good one. But his idler tires do not fit properly (slightly too big inner diameter, so they slip on their idlers (the originals are a strange, non-standard size).
You can get the FF/REW idler tire and belts from Bob at vintage-electronics.net
The play idler tire remains elusive at this time. You will simply have to use MG Chemicals "Rubber Renue" to make it clean and supple again, and settle with that. It works pretty well. Keep it off the nylon parts.
Your problem is most likely that you have a split nylon retainer in the FF/REW idler/clutch. Do a search here for info on that common problem with this model.
Enjoy,
Rich P
You can get the FF/REW idler tire and belts from Bob at vintage-electronics.net
The play idler tire remains elusive at this time. You will simply have to use MG Chemicals "Rubber Renue" to make it clean and supple again, and settle with that. It works pretty well. Keep it off the nylon parts.
Your problem is most likely that you have a split nylon retainer in the FF/REW idler/clutch. Do a search here for info on that common problem with this model.
Enjoy,
Rich P
samid
Active Member
Does anybody know if those problems with Wjoe's CT-F1000 belt kits Rich mentioned were fixed since? I have a CT-F1000 and a recently purchased from Wjoe belt kit for it, and before I do the replacement would like to know whether I should be expecting problems with the idler tires. Thanks.
Mazeppa
Active Member
Aforementioned Pioneer CT-F1000 is on its way to a good home.
Ok so a bit of help please. I cannot good resolution for the schematics. I have replaced the belts and tires on CT-F950. Unit runs fine for a little while but then the take up motor begins to fail and stop. I would like to trouble shoot around the motor but cannot see the drawings. Anyone familiar or have good drawings?