• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Real Dirty Pictures

avionic

avionic

" Black Knights " F-15 back shop EW avionics
Subscriber
My much beloved CA2010 of thirty plus years needs cleaning, has drop outs, and now has a horrible static (loud) which made me quickly take it out of commission. I have failed at deoxit cleaning rituals, having attempted three times to clean the volume pot and other switches mentioned on this board. I've seen a little improvement, but not much
Click to expand...
Symptoms: Slightest vibration to the amp would cause both L and R channels to cut in and out and/or distort ,crackle,pop and hiss .. right channel more than left.
Fix...Primary - The "Mode" switch.. secondary- the protect relay contacts..

Had to disassemble the mode switch to thoroughly clean the contacts.The switch was saturated with deox-it but the contacts were so badly tarnished that the deoxit wasn't doing diddly..After cleaning the switch contacts and reassembling/reinstalling the switch. The crackling and hissing and vibration sensitivity were no longer and issue. But the right channel was not engaging until you cranked open the volume a little ..relay.. Replaced the relay..Totally recapped the amplifier ,adjusted DC offset and AB/A bias..We are Rock'n and Roll'n now without any hiccups or issues...:music:
 

Attachments

  • DSC03005.JPG
    DSC03005.JPG
    43.8 KB · Views: 1,298
  • 1020.4.JPG
    1020.4.JPG
    82.1 KB · Views: 2,238
  • 1020.5.JPG
    1020.5.JPG
    68.9 KB · Views: 1,852
  • 1020.6.JPG
    1020.6.JPG
    58.5 KB · Views: 1,714
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Isn't rebuilding those babies fun. I had a chap bring in a CR-3020 that had the shaft of the speaker switch broken off. 'Twas great fun fitting a new one from a different switch.
 
I was looking down the barrel of a similar job on 2 pioneer decks

I was lucky- deoxit worked in my case, both times.

I wasn't looking forward to what you have done.

Done well bloke.
 
At least with those switches, you can GET AT the oxidized contacts. That's a familiar sight... and aren't they purty all shined up... :D

Then there's the ones with the silver contacts - they specifically seem to resist deoxit. Luckily tarn-x and a good flushing clears THEM up. They don't oxidize as much, but when they go, they GO!!

My nightmare is the switches with the contacts protruding through the top, and staked.... no opening them, and if they aren't silver...... and are all oxidized - now that's a nightmare.
 
The selector switch issue has been w/ Yammy for yrs. Not only are the pots cheap, but they are open to all airborne matter. I base this on 30 yrs Yammy experience. I would never buy their preamps. They may sound good but are too trouble prone for someone who values reliability above all else. For decades" I've only used the pwr amp section of a CR 1020 & Cr 3020. That they have managed to get right.
 
avionic said:
Not that I'm aware of..
Click to expand...
Thanks. really having trouble disassembling it. The screw that holds it together is jammed. No amount of penetrating solvents is helping. So I was hoping I could replace it. I will keep trying.
 
Which switch? Most of the switches have their innards held in place by bent metal tangs. Which use screws?

You can always wait for one to come up for sale on the auction site. May take a while...
 
saur said:
Thanks. really having trouble disassembling it. The screw that holds it together is jammed. No amount of penetrating solvents is helping. So I was hoping I could replace it. I will keep trying.
Click to expand...
Post a photo of what your talking about.. Slide switches don't have screws. Unless your referring to the Knob setscrews. Or the chassis mounting hex nut.
 
Lesterbest said:
The selector switch issue has been w/ Yammy for yrs. Not only are the pots cheap, but they are open to all airborne matter. I base this on 30 yrs Yammy experience. I would never buy their preamps. They may sound good but are too trouble prone for someone who values reliability above all else. For decades" I've only used the pwr amp section of a CR 1020 & Cr 3020. That they have managed to get right.
Click to expand...
Hi, I’m wondering which preamp might be best for powering a Yamaha P2200. I have a beautifully recapped CR1020 that sounds beautiful that I’m thinking of using for preamp duty. Might a serviced/recapped CA 2010 be even better for preamp duty? And might it be even better than a C4?
 
I'm thinking that there should be a Sticky in the Yamaha Forum titled: "Just ask Avionic". :)

Good morning,
James

edit: LOL, I spelled my own name wrong. I'm thinking that it is time for a vacation.
 
Last edited:
Yes, Jams, good idea.
In fact he's probably already answered my question if I could only unpick all his previous contributions.
Would be nice if he can be summoned on this occasion..
 
Pretty hard to beat a refreshed C-4.. IMHO Separate's will always sound just a little better than CR's or CA's..
 
Thanks Avionic.
Ever used the ‘fake’ pre-outs of an A1 integrated? I presume that it’s output is compromised by having gone through the power section and some attenuators... but would be interesting to hear a view on this.
Anyway, thanks for the advice on the C4 and separates.
 
Pre-out is amplifier output through a 6.8KΩ resistor then cap coupled to the pre-out jack. Similar to a headphone out. Nothing much else to say..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom