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Real Quick Question

Anyway, replacing a lot of parts without a diagnosis can introduce more variables and more things you can't trust. The proper way to solve a problem is to trace the fail and narrow the problem to a small area. As you say, you already replaced many parts and the problem is still there. There are many ways to trace a fail. I'd start checking voltages and tracing the signal with a probe, sending it to a 2nd amplifier.
I would love to but I do not have the training or knowledge to do that. that is why I have been replacing parts. Since the problem exists with any input I assume it is in the main board and not the FM Board etc.
 
So I removed the volume Pot and tried testing it and got no straight level readings. So I took it all apart and cleaned it and reassembled it. It works better but it made no difference in my issue with this receiver.
 

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Please, try to follow my graphic instruction to build an audio tracer probe, and then ask here to follow the signal inside the amplifier. If you are able to solder and desolder components, and disassemble an amplifier, you can build that probe. Or, keep desoldering components without a reason until by chance the problem gets fixed.
Perhaps your problem is a bad STK module, and the only solution in that case is to replace the STK.
 
Please, try to follow my graphic instruction to build an audio tracer probe, and then ask here to follow the signal inside the amplifier. If you are able to solder and desolder components, and disassemble
Even if I built it, I would not know how to use it. I already explained several times that I have no training in electronics. Everything that I have repaired was thru replacing parts. Even mechanics these days are not mechanics. they are parts installers. This is a simple simple issue that an electronics expert could diagnose if they read this and could of told me what to replace by now.

Once again the volume is not existent until the the higher sound levels and is garbled staticy and crackely. At first I had one channel working and now there are two. At first it was impossible to make out the words and now you can make out the music.

Someone has had this very same issue and knows that it it.
 
This is a simple simple issue that an electronics expert could diagnose if they read this and could of told me what to replace by now.
With all due respect, if it was that simple and someone knew exactly what to replace they probably would have told you by now.

But, that's why fixers insist on diagnostics because symptoms don't necessarily have the same cause and same solution in every case.
 
We know its not the speaker protection switch because this model does not have one.

We know its not the volume switch.

We we know it happens on any source so that rules out everything except the main board.

Has to be the transistors, capacitors or as elarnado mentioned the STK Power Amplifier I.C. Sure it could be a diode or a resistor but they chances of that are very low.

Also I noticed that there are a bunch of threads on here that abruptly end without a resolution. This is a slap in the face to the next guy and I am sure it ends so fast because it was a simple obvious mistake and the poster felt stupid and so did not give closure.
 
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I have to suggest you the same one more time, and for the last time: You need to diagnose the problem. We can't diagnose it remotely, it won't fix by itself, and the chances of repairing it replacing random parts are very small and very time consuming.

All the techs trying to help you are telling the same, no one will suggest you to replace all the parts on the amplifier (which could be done of course, you can buy all the parts, swap 100% of the parts and for sure the problem will be solved).

I have a book full of stories like that, last time a customer brought a pretty expensive Adam powered speaker (Adam S3X-V) with distorted tweeter output. Another tech replaced a lot of parts on a board, weeks or moths trying to fix it, and the problem persisted. A proper diagnose solved the problem in 10 minutes (literally 10 minutes or less ), and of course, all the parts and SMT ICs replaced were not the problem. Time and money wasted. The problem was 1 BC560 transistor, a few cents in parts.

Using a signal tracer is not difficult. you would probably invest 1/4 or less of the time you already invested in replacing good parts without a diagnose. The idea is to send the signal to a 2nd amplifier or powered speaker, and listen to it, you will find where the signal start to get lost or distorted. I usually start at the volume control, I check if the signal gets into the potentiometer, and gets out of it. From there, I keep searching. Forward if the signal output is OK, and backwards if the signal arrives distorted or silent to the volume pot.
 
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You understand any "new" STK you buy is almost certainly going to be a counterfeit part, regardless what the seller may claim, right?

An original STK is not a part to replace unless you're sure.
I will remove and test them first just like all the other parts I removed.

Thanks Again.
 
I removed both STK IC's and tested them and they both had the same readings across all pins within tollerances. I do not believe the problem is in the STK Amplifiers.
 
PSTDEcat, was kind enough to e-mail me the Service manual for this Sanyo 2033. I have tried to save it and post it here but it says the file is too big. If anyone knows how to post it or save it one Audiokarma in the section where you post it, please let me know and I can e-mail it to you.

I replaced all the transistors in the main power board because I was bored. It made no difference the sound still does not come on till the very high volume levers and is garbled and staticy.

I finally built myself a Dim Bulb Tester and have been using it a lot. I used it on this stereo and it come on bright at power up but then goes real dim and stays that way. Anybody have any new theories now?
 

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PSTDEcat, was kind enough to e-mail me the Service manual for this Sanyo 2033. I have tried to save it and post it here but it says the file is too big. If anyone knows how to post it or save it one Audiokarma in the section where you post it, please let me know and I can e-mail it to you.
Instructions are in the very first sticky (pinned) thread in the "Digital Docs" subforum.
 
Here are my readings now.

Yellow 0
Yellow 0
White 0
Blue Black = -11.63
Black Black = -11.61
Blue Black = -11.58
White = -11.59
White Red = -11.62
Red = -11.66

So all zero volts or negative 11volts

1784484831628.png
 
Here are my readings now. All zero volts or around negative 11 volts. See picture above for board and wire locations.

Yellow 0
Yellow 0
White 0
Blue Black = -11.63
Black Black = -11.61
Blue Black = -11.58
White = -11.59
White Red = -11.62
Red = -11.66

Plugged into a Dim Bulb and I hit the power button, the DBT light comes on then slowly dims out and volume gets louder then the sound goes out and the bulb gets bright again and keeps going thru this same process over and over. So it seams like there is a protection circuit repeatedly kicking on and off but this model does not have a Relay. Below is a video of what it is doing but I could not get it to load or play.
 

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I rebuilt the SDU3P Power switch so I didn't have to pay $50 plus shipping to the criminals on E-Bay.

I took voltage readings at the speaker connections and got nothing over one volt.

Something is making the unit lose sound then get loud then lose sound again like a protection circuit over and over.
 
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