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Realistic Nova 8b Rebuild & Crossover Re-Design

I thought about doing the x-over mods on my Realistic Nova 8b's but decided against it . I found that the mod changed the x-over from a first order to a second order . For some reason I've never been attracted to the sound of speakers that used higher order crossover networks . Sure they play louder , handle more power but it's something about a speaker designed and wired in positive polarity that's appealing to me . The late Roy Johnson of Green Mountain Audio once said that the best sounding bookshelf speakers he heard before he actually started building speakers was a lowly pair of Fisher bookshelf speakers heard at a stereo shop in Colorado Springs,Co .
Here's the exact quote copied from one of articles ,

"Shortly after earning his driver's license a few months later, the teenager drove 20 minutes from his family's home in Green Mountain Falls, Colorado, to Colorado Springs to see what was new at the local stereo store. "I passed in front of a Fisher bookshelf speaker that was playing music from a local FM classical radio station," he recalled. "For the first time, I heard the concert hall's echo. It never occurred to me that I could hear reality from a box. It was as if there was an alternate universe. I did not know such a thing was possible, this reproduction of spatial information. In that instant, I became curious about the time-domain. Only later did I learn that the speaker had a first-order crossover."

Here's what Roy said about speakers wired in inverted polarity , " Inverted polarity means those drivers ‘suck’ inwards for a positive voltage. Imagine a trumpeter ‘sucking in’ on his horn, instead of blowing outwards through his instrument. That is the difference between inverted and normal polarity. Hopefully, each of your stereo components was made with normal polarity. If one component has inverted polarity, you will then need to re-invert it by reversing the wires on each speaker, from plus-to-minus to minus-to-plus. This will not hurt your equipment if left uncorrected, but normal polarity results in better sound."

The Realistic Nova 8b with upgraded parts to the original x-over sounds best to me . It might not be able to blow the plaster off the walls but it just sounds correct . Each driver is moving in and out in positive unison instead of one driver wire out of phase(2nd order) . Even thought the Nova 8's is large and has 4 drivers on the wide front baffle I can easily hear good imaging and echo on good classical music recordings . This is why I love the sound of EPI speakers , they're also great at conveying spacial imaging for a box type speaker . The drivers are all wired in positive phase ,all in positive unison to the input signal . This is why I won't alter my Nova 8b's . Just not a fan of speakers with higher order networks .
 
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We have no idea about the polarity of a recording. We don't even know if all the tracks in a recording are the same polarity. I think that having good phase matching between drivers is good for the coherence of a speaker's sound but this isn't polarity absolutely.
 
After all the recent comments here, and after checking, double checking, & triple checking my attempt at building VL's crossover mod, I decided to abandon the crossover mod altogether and just rebuild the original crossover. I have the original woofers, but 1 mid and one tweeter were not working so I used the phenolic ring tweeters I bought for VL's mod. The Nova 8s used a real crossover with 3 NP caps, 2 inductors and one wire wound resister. They also use 2 pots for midrange and tweeter lever. The Nova 8Bs however just use 2 NP caps for the crossover and 4 wire wound resisters in conjunction to two slide switches for mid and tweeter level. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that difference is why the crossover mod works so well with the Nova 8B and Optimus 5B speakers, but not with the non "B" speakers. I think that's also got a lot to do with why the Nova 8s sound so good with just a simple crossover upgrade. Anyway, I'm happy again with how good my Nova 8s sound. Now, on to my next project!

Thanks,
Rick
I’m very much a non expert in types of crossovers and such, and I have never owned the ‘non - b’ Optimus/nova, but I read your short saga and I couldn’t help but wonder why the difference in woofers doesn’t stand out to you as a factor. As I recall, and I did this mod more than 10 years ago (!) so I could be wrong, but this mod gives the woofers responsibility for a lot more of the mid frequencies than they handle stock. The woofers are really the personality of this speaker I feel, that plus the restrained high end that some grow fond of and others correct with more modern tweeters. It’s entirely possible that the Bs and non B drivers are more similar than I realize, but it does make me curious whenever I check this thread through the years and see someone interested in applying this mod to the ‘non - Bs’ (I don’t think you’re the first).

Glad you’ve got them back to stock and enjoying them that way.
 
OK, I'm sorry, but drivers DON'T work that way. The plus and minus on speaker terminals (where you connect your wires) is merely to keep the matched speaker in polarity. Note, capacitors in speakers are NON polarized. So this logic about "pushing" and "sucking" are NOT applicable. Changing the polarity generally results in a change in the "depth" of the play back. When experimenting myself I found that vocals or instruments might be pushed back when changing the polarity of the drivers, or pulled forward depending on design. Let's not mix things up here.
 
Hi everyone! I've been lurking here for a while, and finally just completed the VideoLady mod on a pair of Optimus 5's. Nova 8B tweeters were used as required of the x-over design, and a new terminal plate was made of particle board and modern binding posts. For an added treat when the grilles are off, I painted the bare baffles with the closest approximation of JBL blue I could come up with on the cheap. Heresy, maybe, but I like it! I teach at a tech school, so I had the kids in the graphics shop make some vinyl stickers for around the binding posts with a special nod to Video Lady herself. I haven't listened to them yet in their new modified state, but I will report back when I do. Can't wait!
Hi Wolfdog, I really like how clean your x-over is. I have little experience in soldering and the such. I have recapped some 5bs and some optimus 25s. When doing those jobs I liked that there were anchors on the board where speaker wires connected or where there were multiple wires coming together. Anyways designing my own crossover Im not sure what to use for the architecture to give me that same stability and rubustness....what you did looks super clean and solid. Could you add a few more pictures of how you did those points where 4-5 wires come together? The points where the speaker wires connect. Also is your board on a stand off? Thanks
 
A question about inductors.

I lined everything up in PE before realizing that shipping is expensive to Canada. I'm now looking at Solen to take advantage of free shipping but they dont have the same inductors. Sometimes the mH and AWG are the same but the ohms are different. Other times times I can find even something that is the same in any of the categories.

ex. PE 2.0mH 18AWG inductor .80ohms and at Solen 2.0mH 18AWG is 0.7ohms.....Will this make a difference?

Or what if I cant find a 1.0mH but only a 1.1mH inductor?

So I guess I'm wondering if a few differences in the inductors will make a noticeable difference.

Thanks
 
The slight difference of resistance shouldn't be an issue. 10% on the inductor value may alter the response or maybe not much. Depends on where in the crossover it is used. From my experience using Xsim, the series components seem to have a larger effect than the parallel parts.
 
Agree, alternating inductors helps reduce field activity
I was thinking that but would laying down the angled one put me in #5 problematic territory?
Ill have 8cm between centers. Or should I lay it down and turn the one under it to point at it? Or what about turning it to point into the one under it?
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I have used the "never do this" arrangement on purpose to increase the inductance values of 2 or 3 inductors wired in series. You need to be sure they are wound in the same direction so the magnetic flux will add rather than cancel.
 
Speakers run on AC at 60 cycles per second. It would not matter which wire was connected to + or - if you were just using one speak on a mono system. It has no relation to trumpet sounds. Speakers do not imitate the blowing (or sucking?) of air in a wind instrument, they use electric transducers to create sound. The make the pressure waves that we hear by constantly moving back and forth.

The whole reason for polarity markings is so your two (or more) speakers can be wired in phase with each other, so they are both going out and coming in at the same time. Speakers that are not in phase still sound fine by themselves, but out in the room their sounds interfere with each other and cancel out some.
 
Speakers run on AC at 60 cycles per second. It would not matter which wire was connected to + or - if you were just using one speak on a mono system. It has no relation to trumpet sounds. Speakers do not imitate the blowing (or sucking?) of air in a wind instrument, they use electric transducers to create sound. The make the pressure waves that we hear by constantly moving back and forth.

The whole reason for polarity markings is so your two (or more) speakers can be wired in phase with each other, so they are both going out and coming in at the same time. Speakers that are not in phase still sound fine by themselves, but out in the room their sounds interfere with each other and cancel out some.
Your 60 cycles per second inclusion seems quite odd to me. The power supply if any good filters the 60 Hz AC down to a reasonable DC voltage. The Speakers operate based on the fluctuating swings between either a ground and the high output of the output stage amplifier, or between a positive (ref ground) and a negative (ref ground) output of the output stage amplifier, do they not?
 
After following this thread for a very long time I finally decided to try this mod on one of my Nova 8 speakers. I had one blown tweeter and one blown mid so I replaced those with components compatible with the mod. Then set about building and installing the mod. When all was said and done, I didn't like it. All the drivers were functioning, but the speakers sounded very dull and boomy. Since I still had the original crossover I replaced the old caps and resistor with new ones and installed it. The speakers came alive. What I expected with the mod I got with a simple upgrade. Remember, the mod is for the Nova 8B. I have the Nova 8 (no B) and I believe that's why this mod didn't work for me. The Nova 8 uses a different woofer than the 8B, and my results left a very boomy speaker. That points me to the woofer (but I may be wrong).

Now I have a complete crossover, and all the parts for the second crossover, that I don't need. The parts cost me about $137.00 at Parts Express. I would like to sell them to get some of my money back, so If you're thinking about the mod but thought it was too expensive PM me or leave a reply here and maybe we can work something out.

Thanks,
Rick
 
Bingo! Exactly what I felt and did. RS crossovers were very simple, but seemed to really work well. Nothing wrong with simple when done right. KISS is my preferred way to do most anything.
Do you remember what type of capacitors you bought as well as quantities? I want to recap my 8bs but I currently do not have time to open them up.
 
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