Realistic SA-2001 Power Transformer Wired at 220v

[outlaw53]

Picked up a Realistic SA-2001 on Craigslist that is unfortunately wired for use in Europe/Australia at 220 volts. Operation of the unit is unknown. Based on what I have found through some research about the amp, here are my questions and findings that I need help with.
I'm thinking that I have these options:
* Buy a step-up transformer so I can see if the amp is hopefully operational. I'm thinking a 1000w would be sufficient. The SA-2001 is rated at 340w.
* Wait for a "parts" item on Ebay for a working 110v transformer to replace the 220v one. According to the service manual the Realistic SA-2000 and SA-2001 share the same power transformer.
* Inside my SA-2001, the 220v transformer(pictured below) has 2 primary wired taps, 1 white(used) and 1 that is unused and protected by black heat shrink. Can anyone tell me if that unused wire tap is indeed a 110v wire that I could use to convert the SA-2001 to 110v thus allowing me the best option,maybe.
Thanks to anyone that can help me.

 

[restorer-john]

Where did it come from originally (what power plug was on it- this will go a long way to determining the answer)? Australia/UK is/was 240V and Europe was 220V at the time the amplifier was sold. So if it was a model destined for Europe or the UK/Australia, the tappings would be 220 and 240V with one left unused, depending on the country it was sold in. That is the most likely scenario.

Multivoltage units from that era would normally have 110, 120, 220, 240V (0-110-120 + 0-110-120) and run two 110 volt primaries in series for 220V countries and run two 120V primaries in series for 240V countries. In the 110 and 120 volt countries, they would run them in parallel. 230V (which was coming in across Europe) could be accommodated with a 0-110+0-120V combo.

You can test the basic resistance of the primaries and get an idea of what the setup is. If it's a 220 and 240V tap, the DC resistance won't be significantly different between the two tappings and the common.

If it is indeed a 110/120 , 220/240 transformer (very unlikely*, but possible), the DC resistance of the primary tappings will be about half of each other.

Caveat: you can't use a digital multimeter- they will be thrown out by the inductance in most cases.

* the reason it is unlikely is due to the power consumption of the unit. Consider if only half the primary winding was used for a 120v country. Twice the current would need to flow as compared to the 240v country, so the primary windings would need to be a lot thicker and more expensive. This was almost never done on transformers bigger than 30watts or so IME. They went with twin primaries that could be wired any way they liked. Lower cost.

 

[Bodyblue]

A very, very rare unit. I have a sa 2001 that took forever to find since RS did not sell many Integrated amps so I can't imagine how few were sold in that voltage. I love mine and hope you figure it out.

 

[outlaw53]

Thanks to all for the technical advice. My electronic skills are limited to try the other tap on the transformer. However, today I received my step-up transformer and tested the amp(along with the TM-1001 tuner that came with it). They both play great! All lights,meters and channels are working fine on both units, but do need some cleaning. Deoxit and faderlube are on order. I will post some pics when complete. I have a friend that does my major repair work and I will let him know about your suggestions on the tap for 110v. I'm just happy that it works! Thanks again.
Question: Is there a way to snug up the two-prong European type connector into the socket? Seems a little loose to me.

 

[Bodyblue]

Thanks to all for the technical advice. My electronic skills are limited to try the other tap on the transformer. However, today I received my step-up transformer and tested the amp(along with the TM-1001 tuner that came with it). They both play great! All lights,meters and channels are working fine on both units, but do need some cleaning. Deoxit and faderlube are on order. I will post some pics when complete. I have a friend that does my major repair work and I will let him know about your suggestions on the tap for 110v. I'm just happy that it works! Thanks again.
Question: Is there a way to snug up the two-prong European type connector into the socket? Seems a little loose to me.

Those tuners are Uber-rare as well! I finally gave up and got a slightly older one.

 

[outlaw53]

So is the general consensus that the TM-1001 is worth keeping while the SA-2001 is not?

 

[OMGCat!]

I'd run it for a while and make your own judgement. Unless it is a truly bad design and will light your house on fire or something (it's not, Realistic gear is actually very nice) there's no reason not to put it into your system and see how you like it.
I've heard many times "X gear is all terrible sounding junk" on one hand while the same gear has huge fans on the other. This is just about the most personal, subjective hobby you could possibly find and one where you certainly won't find a decent substitute for you own ears.

 

[CruzBay]

Looks like both those models' service manuals are in the AK database.

http://akdatabase.org/AKview/thumbnails.php?album=56

A little hard to see in yours, but worth looking at.

Don't show the primaries well, though.

AS far as the transformers being the same, on page 20 of either manual, there are different part numbers.

The part number on yours is said to be for Europe or Australia.

Maybe the other windings are for one or the other, but 230/240 seem close enough.

An interesting experiment, ask your tech to power the unit with 240 and look at the voltages coming off the unused primary taps. If they're near 120 volts, it suggests those might be for the US market. From there, I wouldn't risk anything without the proper documentation.- Particularly when the SM's say Eur/Aus...

 

[Bodyblue]

So is the general consensus that the TM-1001 is worth keeping while the SA-2001 is not?

I reported that shitty that post that got deleted. It showed no respect to a new member and his equipment. I have a SA 2001 and it is a very nice sounding amp, period. The tuners are nice as well and are hard to find in good condition.

 

[Blue Shadow]

I was just looking at this unit on line because it is built upsidedown with the meters on the bottom of the faceplate. Looking it over and knowing it is from the late 70s and 60 wpc, that is an ok piece in my book. With the matching tuner with the very slightly more common on a tuner meters in the faceplate below the dial, it is one cool set up.

The phono input can just barely handle a moving coil cartridge but the loading would be off. It can handle a 1.5mV input (most LOMC are just below 1) leading to lower level listening but the phono loading is probably fixed at about 50,000Ω, easily enough changed with plug in resistors on the phono input. But with the three switch positions for the phono input level, you have the ability to adjust the volume of the phono stage to match other inputs.

That is some cool gear, get us some pics if you can.

 

[Bodyblue]

I was just looking at this unit on line because it is built upsidedown with the meters on the bottom of the faceplate. Looking it over and knowing it is from the late 70s and 60 wpc, that is an ok piece in my book. With the matching tuner with the very slightly more common on a tuner meters in the faceplate below the dial, it is one cool set up.

The phono input can just barely handle a moving coil cartridge but the loading would be off. It can handle a 1.5mV input (most LOMC are just below 1) leading to lower level listening but the phono loading is probably fixed at about 50,000Ω, easily enough changed with plug in resistors on the phono input. But with the three switch positions for the phono input level, you have the ability to adjust the volume of the phono stage to match other inputs.

That is some cool gear, get us some pics if you can.

I love mine (see above pics) and just tonight I put my Nova 6s back with it replacing the Small Advents. The synergy is really nice with that combo.

 

[outlaw53]

Thanks for all the helpful information and encouraging comments. As soon as I get everything cleaned inside and out I'll post some pics.Here's some of the backside of each and before and after of the SA-2001 face plate.

 

[KentTeffeteller]

This is a nice classic Realistic setup, in beautiful condition cosmetically. When new, this was a nice sounding combination and good value for the money.

 

[restorer-john]

Outlaw, there's no doubt the transformer is a 220,240 volt primary. It will be set for 220v of course. (the unused wire is, as I expected, a 240v primary tap)

You will need a setup transformer to use it in the US.

 

[Ds2000]

I’d happily have the pair. I think they are also some of the coolest looking RS gear.

 

[outlaw53]

RestoJohn, Thanks. Totally agree that the unused tap on the primary is 240v. I have a 1000 watt step-transformer supplying power for these 2 units. Pics will be posted as soon as everything is cleaned and functional.

 

[outlaw53]

Finished cleaning the units and very happy with the results. The only issue I'm having is the defeat switch on the SA-2001. My thinking is that when the defeat button is depressed, the perfect level control is turned off? Right? My perfect level control raises and lowers the volume regardless of the defeat button position. Not a big deal as I may have overlooked it when I cleaned all the other switches. I'm happily surprised on how good it sounds playing CD's and and vinyl. The tuner IMHO sounds as good as the 4 ganger on my Sony STR-7065. I have a Kenwood KT-7500/KA-7000 setup and maybe I'll see how the TM-1001 sounds working with the KA-7000.
Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with the system especially since I only have $50 invested(cost of step-up transformer plus cleaning materials, and elbow grease). Here are some pics. Thanks for all the help.

 

[outlaw53]

Forgot a better pic of the tuner...

 

[outlaw53]

I meant to say KA-7100 in the previous post and here's a better pic of the tuner...

 

[Bodyblue]

Finished cleaning the units and very happy with the results. The only issue I'm having is the defeat switch on the SA-2001. My thinking is that when the defeat button is depressed, the perfect level control is turned off? Right? My perfect level control raises and lowers the volume regardless of the defeat button position. Not a big deal as I may have overlooked it when I cleaned all the other switches. I'm happily surprised on how good it sounds playing CD's and and vinyl. The tuner IMHO sounds as good as the 4 ganger on my Sony STR-7065. I have a Kenwood KT-7500/KA-7000 setup and maybe I'll see how the TM-1001 sounds working with the KA-7000.
Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with the system especially since I only have $50 invested(cost of step-up transformer plus cleaning materials, and elbow grease). Here are some pics. Thanks for all the help.

There is nothing wrong with the defeat switch. When you push it, it just turns off the Loudess feature. The PL control keeps controlling the output level. That is one of the features that took me some time to get figured out.