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Realistic SA-500 integrated amp ('82-'84)

jasoncauthron

Active Member
I picked up a little Realistic SA-500/ST-500 combo for cheap. I knew it had a problem, but I always thought these looked cool, I have kind of a Realistic collection anyway, AND I figured as long as it had discrete outputs and drivers, I could fix it regardless. Well, long story shorter, I couldn't find a schematic for it and it DOES have an STK-2230 amplifier. I wouldn't have bought it if I had known, but like I said, it was cheap enough I don't feel too bad... as long as I can fix it.

It's kicking my butt, though. My first mistake (or second, if the first was buying it!) was that I ASSumed that the problem with the right channel distortion was a bad STK module. Out of sheer good luck, I happened to have an STK-2230 that I know to be new and genuine, so, after checking the power supply voltages (because I'm not a complete dummy!) I soldered in that new module and powered it on, expecting the problem to be fixed. Didn't change a thing... Same problem as before, and that problem is that after powering on, (relay clicks after 2-3 seconds) the unit seems to work normally for about 10 seconds, and then the right channel becomes distorted. I believe that I have acquired the very unit that was mentioned in this thread https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...eo-amplifier-right-channel-distortion.909033/ . Power the unit off and back on, and you get basically 10-15 seconds that sound pretty normal, and then it's as if something switches and the right side becomes distorted.

Anyway, I have become kind of determined to fix it now. If I input a sine wave at the tape-in, scope on the speaker outputs, the left side looks normal. Right side, immediately after power-on also has a normal looking sine wave, but it's offset about -.45V. After the 10-15 seconds, the DC offset goes away, but so does about half the sine wave. Like asymmetrical clipping. Tracing the signal from the input jack, I find that it first goes to the selector switch, then to the volume/balance control, then to the tone control board, and then on to the differential amplifier. Signal looks normal going to the tone control board, but it's clipped on the right side when it comes out of the tone board. It's a pretty simple-looking circuit, with only passive components except for the opamp. I think I've checked all the caps and resistors. The original opamp was a JRC-082D. I switched it out with a TL-072 but there was no change. The supply voltage seems to be about 15 volts on the positive alternation, and -13.2 on the negative side. On the opamp, the right channel inputs are pin 2 (which is clipped) and pin 3 (which looks normal). I'm kind of stumped. The rest of the circuit up to the STK seems to be functioning and, in fact I have swapped most of the semiconductors left to right, trying to make the problem move. The STK is amplifying what appears at its input, and seems to be working correctly. There's some other junk: There's a muting circuit that mutes the signal for a few seconds after switching inputs. It seems to be working and the problem doesn't seem related to it as far as I can tell, although the delay is about right. There's a couple of microphone inputs that can be mixed in, but they appear to be amplified by a separate opamp and that output is mixed in on the tone control board. There's an echo control.. As I said, I'm stumped. If anyone has any ideas (or a schematic for this thing!) I would appreciate the help.
 
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Thank you for the reply, and I did clean all the controls thoroughly. This one doesn't actually have a tape monitor. I'm pretty sure that's not it, though. I did a little more testing and i find that I have the clipped sine wave at pin 2 of the opamp on the tone board (no DC offset there), a clean sine wave on pin 3, with no offset. But on pin 1, the corresponding output, I have the clipped sine wave riding on +11.5VDC. There are output coupling caps at the exit of the tone board, and I guess that's blocking the DC and leaving me with the clipped sine wave at the input of the differential amp. I think I'm looking for a shorted cap or solder bridge, etc. but I can't find anything. I may change out the opamp again, but I don't think that's it, because it's behaving just like the previous one did. Maybe pull the opamp and check for voltages at the pads...
 
On my lunch hour I pulled the opamp and checked for voltages on the board: Only +Vcc and -Vcc 15.35 and -13.25 at pins 8 & 4. Still stumped.
 
If you bypass the tone control board, what happens?
In cases like this I try to separate the amplifier section from the preamp section.
Then feed a signal into the amplifier section first. I keep an old smart phone around for this and just stream some music using the phones volume control to adjust the gain. Or an old tuner I have with a gain control. At leased testing the amp and preamp separately it can help narrow things down to one or the other. Those little separates are pretty good looking too. I think there was a cassette deck that matched them too?
 
Yes, the SCT-500(A) was the matching deck, and it was a cool-looking little setup. I remember seeing it in the stores and thinking i'd like to have it. Of course, my perspective now is a little different, but...

To answer the question above, when I bypass the tone board, the amp seems to work correctly. The way I bypassed the tone board is I disconnected the shielded, L-E-R cable from the tone board, and landed it back on the main board at the inputs to the differential amp. That way, the signal still goes through the volume and balance controls, and is also subject to the muting circuit. (I traced that out as well: It uses a couple of FETs to mute the signal just as it exits the volume control, and it seems to be working correctly.) There is apparently some gain through the tone board, because I have limited volume available like this. I think it was driving about 10 Vpp on a 1Khz sine wave into an 8 ohm dummy load with the volume all the way up. I measured again on the tone board opamp, and without the signal-in connected, I've got 13.3V on pin 1, -13.25V on pin 4 and 15.2 on pin 8. The position of the bass control slider seems to affect that voltage on pin 1, somewhat, but not very much.
 
I picked up a little Realistic SA-500/ST-500 combo for cheao...if anyone has any ideas (or a schematic for this thing!) I would appreciate the help.

These units were made by Sharp. Not sure if they were rebadged or custom manufactured for Radio Shack. Maybe Sharp could help you with a schematic.
 
Great troubleshooting @jasoncauthron.
With the opamp removed what does the signal look like at pad 2. If you see distortion, this eliminates the opamp and the problem is before the opamp. Since you have a scope can you follow the trace back from pin 2 and find the offending component?

I read your post above, 13.3V on pin1 is not correct. Should be a few mv/as close to zero.

Another option is to use freeze spray or heat and observe any waveform difference in scope when a component is sprayed. What is in the signal path to pin 2 of the opamp?
 
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Good information! Thank you. I had decided these were made by Sanyo and so I figured there had to be a similar Sanyo, Fisher, Marantz,... something that I could find a schematic for. I haven't worked the Sharp angle yet, but I will. To answer p4spooky, above: The only things in front of the opamp are the jack, the selector switch, the volume and balance controls, and right after the volume control, there are a couple of jfets that are part of the muting circuit. It looks like they shunt the signal to ground if the jfets don't have gate voltage? Maybe when they have gate voltage? I haven't gone through that muting circuit yet. It seems to be working correctly as far as I can tell. I swapped those JFETs left to right, to see if the problem moved and it did not. The signal at pad 2 with the opamp removed looks good. It's clipped when the opamp is installed. There's no DC at pin 1 with the opamp removed. With it installed, there's the clipped sinewave (or whatever I input), way up high on a 13V offset. There are coupling caps before the signal exits the tone board, and that cap is blocking the DC, but the clipped waveform (opamp running out of headroom because of the offset?) makes it through. Honestly I got frustrated with this thing and moved it aside, so I haven't looked at it in a few days. I'm still planning on fixing it though, so if anyone is willing to help, I'll get it back out and answer any questions you have, that I can answer. My next move was going to be to completely remove that tone control board and build a little power supply to power it up independent of the amp and just see how it behaves then. I keep thinking I'm missing something, because it just really doesn't make any sense to me. I'm a tinkerer, not a technician, but I know enough to be dangerous.
 
Reviving this thread for anyone who might still be interested. Thank you to Ed for the info about these being made by Sharp. Unfortunately, they must have been custom manufactured for Radio Shack, as I can't find anything branded Sharp that looks very similar. I have not yet tried to contact them regarding a schematic, but I may try that. I mentioned that I got frustrated with the thing and set it aside... well, I put it back on the bench this afternoon, tone control board installed, and everything hooked up. I verified that it's doing the same thing as before: Once turned on, there is undistorted sound from both channels for about 20-30 seconds (less if the volume is turned up higher) then the right channel sounds as if something switches, latches, changes, etc., and it goes quieter and distorted. With a voltmeter monitoring DC at the output, I see that there is about 300mV offset on the right channel output for that initial 20 seconds or so when it's playing "normally". Then the offset goes to zero (or 10mV or so) when the change happens. If I power the unit off and then immediately back on, I get another 20 or so seconds, and it does the same thing again.

I swapped out some capacitors on the amplifier board, "just because" - the old ones tested fine - and it seems to have made the speaker relay click in almost immediately. I may put the old ones back in and see if that changes again... previously the relay would click in after about 3 seconds. About right, it seems. Too quick now and also doesn't drop out quite fast enough on power-off and lets a "POP" through.

Next I lifted some jumpers that connect the output of the tone board to the differential inputs. Checked voltages at the pins of the STK and all look normal with the jumpers removed. With the jumpers in place, there are some voltages on the right side inputs and outputs that don't look right, but they appear to be the same as the DC offset that I'm measuring at the speaker terminal. They approach zero after 20 seconds or so after power-on. Next I swapped those jumpers left-to-right and confirmed that the problem switched to the left side. I think I've proven that the STK is fine and that the problem is indeed coming from the tone control board.

It's really throwing me though, because there's no semiconductors on there besides the opamp, and I'm pretty sure I've checked every component more than once. I'm still thinking of removing that board completely and powering it up with a couple of 9V batteries.. It occured to me though that I'm not sure where it gets it's ground... the metal housings of the slide pots are not electrically connected to anything on the board. There's + supply and - supply, and a common connection marked E between the L and R, on the shielded wire carrying the signal from the volume control to the tone board. I'm about to go out there and stare at it some more...
 
I also have this set, I got a good deal on it and it does work luckily . I do think it has a cool look and was wondering if you ever solved the riddle?
 
I'm interested as well. I have one of these that cleaning the controls eliminated the distortion but the balance is out of whack. Right channel is diminished, full sine wave but only one division on the right, two on the left. I am a real novice on troubleshooting. Anyone have a schematic? Hi-Fi Engine evidently is no longer accepting sign-ins, at least for a year now. Would love some help. Tough to find anything on these little units. I've seen some info calling it the SA/ST-500 (2), but still no info.
 
I'm interested as well. I have one of these that cleaning the controls eliminated the distortion but the balance is out of whack. Right channel is diminished, full sine wave but only one division on the right, two on the left. I am a real novice on troubleshooting. Anyone have a schematic? Hi-Fi Engine evidently is no longer accepting sign-ins, at least for a year now. Would love some help. Tough to find anything on these little units. I've seen some info calling it the SA/ST-500 (2), but still no info.
I was pretty sure I sent one for posting.... @OldKSF
 
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Sure do appreciate the reply. Sadly Radio Shack did 2- 500's. This schematic is for the black power amp. The one I've got (SA 500/ST 500) and referenced here is the bronze face amp and tuner combo. They are nothing to write home about, but cool looking IMHO. A real minimal featured unit, 30 WPC. It was one of the first pieces I picked up, cheap, thankfully. Manufactured cheap enough that the tuner case was secured with rivets. I did drill those out today and successfully replaced a very small inch long incandescent bulb to light the tuner dial. I'm just learning, so I'm easily stumped. Thanks again. Have a good one. I'll post a pic when I take one.
 
Sure do appreciate the reply. Sadly Radio Shack did 2- 500's. This schematic is for the black power amp. The one I've got (SA 500/ST 500) and referenced here is the bronze face amp and tuner combo. They are nothing to write home about, but cool looking IMHO. A real minimal featured unit, 30 WPC. It was one of the first pieces I picked up, cheap, thankfully. Manufactured cheap enough that the tuner case was secured with rivets. I did drill those out today and successfully replaced a very small inch long incandescent bulb to light the tuner dial. I'm just learning, so I'm easily stumped. Thanks again. Have a good one. I'll post a pic when I take one.
i'd never seen one so i had to go look. neat looking unit. too bad it uses stks or i'd go hunt one down.


Annotation 2026-09-25 180043.jpg

here is your schematic



I was pretty sure I sent one for posting....

you wanna grab this and send it to the ak database as well? i've done my part. :biggrin:

@Ed240 seems this one is missing from your database.

i'm guessing it's Foster but those speaker terminals screams panasonic.

s-l1600 (2).jpgs-l1600.jpg
 
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i'd never seen one so i had to go look. neat looking unit. too bad it uses stks or i'd go hunt one down.


View attachment 3844028

here is your schematic





you wanna grab this and send it to the ak database as well? i've done my part. :biggrin:

@Ed240 seems this one is missing from your database.

i'm guessing it's Foster but those speaker terminals screams panasonic.

View attachment 3844029View attachment 3844030
Done and sent....thank you!
 
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