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Realistic STA-65B Lamp Replacements

Paul Gentry

Paul Gentry

New Member
I'm currently working on replacing the lamps used to illuminate the FM tuning section of my Realistic STA-65B. I removed the two that were previously installed and they are a little too worn down to read their voltage and amperage. It's a bi-pin lamp, and I want to guess the voltage reads either 6V or 8V, and that the amperage reads 0.15A. I've read through the manual and couldn't find an answer there, nor could I find an answer online.

In addition, it seems like the stereo indicator LED is out. I read, here on audiokarma, that that requires a red LED in the ballpark of 2.3V and 10mA. If anyone is able to confirm this or correct me, it'd be much appreciated.
 
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Just a guess...

If this is like my STA-46, the two bayonet base lamps are for the tuning meters...at each end of the dial, look and see if you have what looks like a vertical fuse...those are the dial lamps!

But if you are luckier than I, try a #47 lamp in the bayonet mounts. DO NOT pay $12 each for them! Common. Same as pilot lamp in (older) Fender guitar amplifier...

UPDATE: Just compared the two schematics at HiFiEngine.com and it...sadly...seems I am correct. On both of our receivers, PL1 and PL2 are the #47 lamps for the meters and PL3 and PL4 are some other lamp for the dial. If you can get them out, probably with a bit of front end disassembly, put up a picture and maybe someone can ID them for us!
 
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If you have tube lamps( looks like a fuse but with a filament), you could heat the end caps, remove any remains from inside, find an appropriate rice-grain bulb with pigtails, solder tails to end caps, heat them one at a time & reattach to the glass tube. instant new fuse bulb! I've done it a few times out of expediency & thriftyness, still working. Ymmv, of course.
 
Catmanboo said:
If you have tube lamps( looks like a fuse but with a filament), you could heat the end caps, remove any remains from inside, find an appropriate rice-grain bulb with pigtails, solder tails to end caps, heat them one at a time & reattach to the glass tube. instant new fuse bulb! I've done it a few times out of expediency & thriftyness, still working. Ymmv, of course.
Click to expand...
I have a Realistic SA-2001 integrated amp that had the rice grain bulbs for the power meters. It took having to completely disassemble the front of the chassis along with unscrewing all the controls and switche's to get to them.
I didn't have any of that bulb type, but did have some fuse lamps rated for the right voltage needed. I lightly sanded the end caps and soldered wires to each end and then installed them. If I had had some LED fuse bulbs I would have used them since it was so difficult to get to the burned out bulbs to begin with. I've run across more burned out rice grain bulbs than any other type.
 
So here are the photos of the bases and two types of lamps. It appears the bayonet base is .15A but for the stereo indicator bulb, would any "grain of wheat" work?
 

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You must match as close as possible the voltage& current rating of that bulb. If there's more bulbs on the same string & the replacement you use is different, you could end up with some variation in brightness in the string. Those things with the solid lead wires are such a pain in the ass, they always seem to break off, usually on a still-working bulb. If you don't have the wherewithal to adapt a different bulb in there, contact @dgwojo for the right bulb. Great guy to deal with.
For the bayonet base bulb, most likely a no.47 that's been coated, the replacements available may not have the colored option. If need be, I have red & green sleeves for those, pm me if needed.
 
Catmanboo said:
You must match as close as possible the voltage& current rating of that bulb. If there's more bulbs on the same string & the replacement you use is different, you could end up with some variation in brightness in the string. Those things with the solid lead wires are such a pain in the ass, they always seem to break off, usually on a still-working bulb. If you don't have the wherewithal to adapt a different bulb in there, contact @dgwojo for the right bulb. Great guy to deal with.
For the bayonet base bulb, most likely a no.47 that's been coated, the replacements available may not have the colored option. If need be, I have red & green sleeves for those, pm me if needed.
Click to expand...
^^ What catmanboo said, also, I've seen the rattle can or brush on translucent stain used to mimic stained glass used on bulbs with success as long as the amp draw isn't too high. The slip on caps are a much better solution though.
 
Alright, I have some #47 bayonet bulbs on the way. I also picked up some "grains of wheat" so when I get these new bulbs installed I'll update you all on how it went. I'll probably hold off on tinting the #47's but if everything goes well, I might look into that further. I appreciate all of your input!
 
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