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recap? ess amt bookshelf

atchicago

New Member
I plan to recap this crossover and put new speaker cable binding posts on this ESS AMT bookshelf

I emailed ESS. They told me that they're looking for the manual and schematics of this ESS AMT Bookshelf.

here is the schematics I found:


On this particular crossover, which part should I replace? Thank you in advance!

ess amt schematic.jpg
 
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Depending on the quality of the resisters, they can probably remain. Basically, any passive parts can remain(resisters and inductors) unless it shows visible corrosion, browning from over heating, acid damage, etc. You would want to clean the brilliance adjustment and mid presence with deox. Replace the capacitors.
 
They're electrolytic.
thanks!

100uf, 50vdc 6 35v
50 uf, 50vdc 6 35v
15 uf, 50vdc 6 35v
2.2 uf, 50vdc 6 35v


Can I change the 15 uf, and 2.2 uf using film cap:

15uf:
or this:


2.2uf

Any suggestions for 50uf and 100uf? can I use electrolytic caps?
 
thanks!

100uf, 50vdc 6 35v
50 uf, 50vdc 6 35v
15 uf, 50vdc 6 35v
2.2 uf, 50vdc 6 35v


Can I change the 15 uf, and 2.2 uf using film cap:

15uf:
or this:


2.2uf

Any suggestions for 50uf and 100uf? can I use electrolytic caps?
I would follow the suggestions of @automojo from this thread you started. He has done a lot of experimenting with them. I have a pair of AMT4s, and used to have AMT1s and the AMT 1a Monitors. Very addictive speakers.


I read in the other thread that you are getting a noise in places of the higher frequencies. That sounds suspiciously like the diaphragm is failing.

new diaphragms the factory part number is 689-1108 for the AMT4, for sale at a few places online ($80-$90)

I got this from another older thread. It might be worth investigating if it is the AMT and when it happens. Ie) the song part that is causing these sounds, or is it continuous?
 
I would follow the suggestions of @automojo from this thread you started. He has done a lot of experimenting with them. I have a pair of AMT4s, and used to have AMT1s and the AMT 1a Monitors. Very addictive speakers.


I read in the other thread that you are getting a noise in places of the higher frequencies. That sounds suspiciously like the diaphragm is failing.

new diaphragms the factory part number is 689-1108 for the AMT4, for sale at a few places online ($80-$90)

I got this from another older thread. It might be worth investigating if it is the AMT and when it happens. Ie) the song part that is causing these sounds, or is it continuous?
Agreed. They can also be 'half blown'-low output/noisy. Make sure the fuse is not by-passed and correct value. Should be a fast blow as well.
FIY-esp if these are older diaphragms-you should plan on getting 2 new ones. Otherwise they most likely will have different output levels,
These can be excellent sounding-take time/care to set the mid/high levels correctly. Most time this is a set and forget.
My MOJO modded 3's have l-pads for both Heils and trans driver(here a Alpha 6A).
The trans driver is barley on to create the proper balance-Heil 1/4 on.
As far as caps-Janzten Superior Z's would be my first choice. The woofer caps-Jantzen El's-electrolytes are fine here-save your $ for the Heil caps.
Resistors Mills-or the new Dayton Audio DPR's.
FIY-the Mills have a slightly smoother sound-that works perfect with the Heils/ESS speakers.
IMHO-the DPR's work better/darn near perfect for fabric dome tweets.
Why they sound different-I don't know-but they do!.
Another cap choice-cap I like but have not used with Heils-are the Clarity Cap CSA.
They are less expensive.
Frankly if I went CSA-I would go 80% CSA/20% Jantzen Alumen's.
The mix works awesome for Infinity Emit's-so probably with Heils as well!!
Just IMHO.
I would lean towards the Jantzen Superior Z's if you can swing it$$
Otherwise the Clarity CSA should be more then fine.
Make sure the woofer is sealed properly as well. PE foam speaker tape is perfect.
 
thanks!

100uf, 50vdc 6 35v
50 uf, 50vdc 6 35v
15 uf, 50vdc 6 35v
2.2 uf, 50vdc 6 35v


Can I change the 15 uf, and 2.2 uf using film cap:

15uf:
or this:


2.2uf

Any suggestions for 50uf and 100uf? can I use electrolytic caps?
The crosscaps are ok.
Standard Z's caps are way better.
As mentioned-if you can swing it-Superior Z's for the 2.2uf
For the 50uf and 15uf-either Clarity CSA, Solens, or Standard Z cap-as they are on the Heil leg.
The 100uf I would run a electrolytic cap.
 
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Sorry for the change-I missed the crossover schematic.
The 15uf and 50 uf caps won't make as big of difference as the 2.2uf-but they still will effect the sound in part.
Try to use the best caps you can afford here-at least a Standard Z.
But if you can't afford to splurge-you will be fine-it's not the end of the world to go EL here, and a Superior Z for the 2.2ul.
After some thought-a good quality EL in the 15uf/50uf locations-is probably better then a entry level poly cap.
These entry poly caps often sound WORSE then a El cap-especially in HF circuit.
The 20 ohm resistor on the woofer leg-you can run a standard resistor-100 watt wire wound.
 
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I apologize for the rambling!!:)
So high quality EL (MDL@ Madisound) caps (or minimum Standard Z caps) in everything except the 2.2uf.
A Janzten superior Z here.
Mills for the Heil Circuit-100 watt wire wound (amazon has them for the 20 ohm woofer resistor.
 
I apologize for the rambling!!:)
So high quality EL (MDL@ Madisound) caps (or minimum Standard Z caps) in everything except the 2.2uf.
A Janzten superior Z here.
Mills for the Heil Circuit-100 watt wire wound (amazon has them for the 20 ohm woofer resistor.
not at all! I can tell you are very into this, and have a lot of experience. I think I will go with, Janzten superior Z, 2.2 uf
 
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