Recap my Fortes?
- Thread starter Redboy
- Start date
Redboy - Where did you come by that Forte' labelled PCB? Would like to recap the x-overs in my brother's Forte II speakers and that PCB would certainly simplify things.
Also, are we talking Forte' or Forte' II in these posts? Are they the same?
Thanks.
Also, are we talking Forte' or Forte' II in these posts? Are they the same?
Thanks.
Redboy
a few good watts
The PCB was original in my Forte's. They're vintage '87, so I think earlier models were different.
Forte' and Forte' II are different models with different crossovers. You should be able to find a schematic on the Klipsch forum, or Klipsch might even provide it for you.
Good luck. BTW, I'm still very happy with the results.
Forte' and Forte' II are different models with different crossovers. You should be able to find a schematic on the Klipsch forum, or Klipsch might even provide it for you.
Good luck. BTW, I'm still very happy with the results.
Thanks for the info. How would I date my brother's speakers?
Redboy
a few good watts
Check the serial numbers, if they're still attached. Mine are serial 87047... The first two digits correlate to the manufacture year, but apparently they changed that somewhere along the line so you may need to check with Klipsch. In fact, you might just want to call them anyway. I was impressed with the quality of their customer service. One more reason to love 'em!
Thanks, again.
silversport
Super Member
http://home.earthlink.net/~ivol/klipsch_cornwall/klipsch_date_codes.htm
Not my work but passing it along as it is what EVERYONE else uses!
Hope this helps.
Bill
Not my work but passing it along as it is what EVERYONE else uses!
Hope this helps.
Bill
damuho
New Member
Mistake gone unnoticed??
I got a pair of KG-5.2's and was interested in getting Al K.'s (alkeng.com) tweeter attenuator but thought I'd do some research first on tweaking the crossovers, so I found this thread...
The above calculations for series and parallel capacitor connections are wrong. Caps in parallel are summed up i.e. 1.0µf in parallel with 0.47µf will make up a 1.47µf cap. Two caps in series will equal the product of the two values divided by their sum i.e. two 3.0µf caps in series total 1.5µf (this would have worked for the example above for your Fortes).
If this has been corrected before and I missed it in the three pages that followed, I apologize. I went through them in a flash.
Southern said:Let us know the outcome of your new caps.
I also got my Forte's used at a low price however, it makes it more difficult for me to justify spending 1/4 the purchase price for new crossover components. I also would never considered selling my Forte's.
What did you use for the 1.5uF caps since Theta doesn't offer this value, did you put (2) 3uF in parallel or series (1) 1 uF & (1) .47uF?
I'm leaning towards Auricap since they offer a 1.5uF value and are rated to 400V.
I got a pair of KG-5.2's and was interested in getting Al K.'s (alkeng.com) tweeter attenuator but thought I'd do some research first on tweaking the crossovers, so I found this thread...
The above calculations for series and parallel capacitor connections are wrong. Caps in parallel are summed up i.e. 1.0µf in parallel with 0.47µf will make up a 1.47µf cap. Two caps in series will equal the product of the two values divided by their sum i.e. two 3.0µf caps in series total 1.5µf (this would have worked for the example above for your Fortes).
If this has been corrected before and I missed it in the three pages that followed, I apologize. I went through them in a flash.
I have a pair of fortes that are just the absolute best speaker I have ever heard in all my years... of course I have them driven by my restored fisher 500c tube receiver. Question is, all this talk about recapping them, is it really necessary to mess with a good thing or is it an issue that I might blow a tweeter horn or something if I don't recap?
shacky
Addicted Member
Shouldn't be a risk of blowing anything by not recapping. The crossover components are on that plastic cap where binding posts are. I'v seen it mentioned that all that weight on that plastic cap could mean something fall off with possible bad effect.
If you love them there's no need to recap. But most here find improvement and it does give you ioption to make some improvements - first and foremost relocating all that hardware to a separate board.
The Crites kit is much higher quality caps than originals. I've recapped and added Bob's tweeter diaphrams and am very happy I did.
bear-hifi
Well-Known Member
I have built lots of ALK crossovers and never been disappointed!
IMO the best bang for the buck caps are ASC or GE motor runs... :thmbsp:
ssouci
Well-Known Member
BECtoo:
I'm going to rebuild the crossover in my DCM TF-500 speakers (circa 1980s)
it has several orange caps in it, which I think might be mylar caps like in the Klipsch Forte crossover that you have said are not great... they look like those in the picture I've attached
Q: can you tell if these are mylar, and if so, should I replace those with polypropylene?
thanks!
(it also has a pair of 47uF 100V NP caps, which I assume I can just replace with "cheap" NP caps)
I'm going to rebuild the crossover in my DCM TF-500 speakers (circa 1980s)
it has several orange caps in it, which I think might be mylar caps like in the Klipsch Forte crossover that you have said are not great... they look like those in the picture I've attached
Q: can you tell if these are mylar, and if so, should I replace those with polypropylene?
thanks!
(it also has a pair of 47uF 100V NP caps, which I assume I can just replace with "cheap" NP caps)
Attachments
BECtoo
Well-Known Member
Probably Mylar, but at over 20 years of age, I would just replace them no matter what they are.
Bob