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Recapping Confusion

Electrically it doesn't make much difference so long as the inductors don't couple (which is why they are often mounted at 90 degrees to each other). Pretty layout is nice, but has no effect on the circuit. Personally I prefer an etched CB for easy of replacement, but none of these are specifically designed for service.
 
They're certainly running lots of films paralleled/bypassed? with electrolytics which seems a bit.. different (at least to me). Maybe just a cheap way to increase capacitance with some of the larger valued caps while also maintaining increased performance somewhat? I know both electrolytics and films are used everywhere in speaker crossovers, and that electrolytics don't necessarily sound "bad" in speaker crossovers. I've just never seen them combined like this before. Seems like a pseudo-enhanced approach.
 
Perhaps there is too much risk involved with messing with those connections. Too easy to inadvertently screw something up, but I believe there are ways to mitigate that problem.
Must be the ESR is critical in the caps used by JSE
Wouldn't the ESR be just as liable to drift as the capacitance?
 
They're certainly running lots of films paralleled/bypassed? with electrolytics which seems a bit.. different (at least to me). Maybe just a cheap way to increase capacitance with some of the larger valued caps while also maintaining increased performance somewhat? I know both electrolytics and films are used everywhere in speaker crossovers, and that electrolytics don't necessarily sound "bad" in speaker crossovers. I've just never seen them combined like this before. Seems like a pseudo-enhanced approach.
You see this sometimes when the cost of higher value film caps are much higher than an electrolytic. I have several crossovers where the higher values caps are electrolytic. I just recapped a pair of Ditton's that had 5 electrolytic caps per crossover. One was 60uf. I found one on closeout for just under $5. They are sold everywhere else for $47 to $55. If I hadn't found that one I would have used a lytic. Plus the size for higher value film caps are huge. And the only reason I replaced the original caps was due to several texting out of spec.
The 60uf cap I found was almost as big around as a beer can and half as tall.
I had to glue it to the bottom and back of the cabinet.
 
Perhaps there is too much risk involved with messing with those connections. Too easy to inadvertently screw something up, but I believe there are ways to mitigate that problem.

BINGO....I know I wouldn't want to work on that rat's nest.

Wouldn't the ESR be just as liable to drift as the capacitance?

Even more so and most folks don't have a way to test that.
 
You see this sometimes when the cost of higher value film caps are much higher than an electrolytic. I have several crossovers where the higher values caps are electrolytic. I just recapped a pair of Ditton's that had 5 electrolytic caps per crossover. One was 60uf. I found one on closeout for just under $5. They are sold everywhere else for $47 to $55. If I hadn't found that one I would have used a lytic. Plus the size for higher value film caps are huge. And the only reason I replaced the original caps was due to several texting out of spec.
The 60uf cap I found was almost as big around as a beer can and half as tall.
I had to glue it to the bottom and back of the cabinet.

I know what you mean, the larger uf sizes can be absolutely huge and expensive. Here I used a potted polycarbonate to replace one electrolytic, and for the other, combined two of those cheap, 30uf TI polypropylenes to make a 60uf cap on a recent Rectilinear III crossover recap. Not the easiest (or prettiest) task necessarily but after some careful listening with some other alternatives I tried using, sounds awesome with some low value polystyrenes added as bypass caps and some hot glue to hold it all in place.

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everything is relative. One of those Duelund caps costs more than an entire pair of JSE 1.8. Just saying.

My point in posting that picture has nothing to do with the quality of the components, it's about the quality of the layout and workmanship.
 
Exactly

Look into VMPS crossovers. Those are a total mess.

Some Apogee speakers don't look much different on the inside.


Ever opened up a set of Nolas?

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Snell C for reference

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Sjöfn "The Clue" crossovers have the components glued right the rear of the baffle. (sometimes incorrectly, I might add....)

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And here's what JSE Model 2 look like for posterity. Absolutely beautiful sounds those speakers made.

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Was that my Snell Type C crossover you did? You should have shown the picture of what you did to it
 
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