Recapping, Rebuilding, Restoring, Rest-o-modding... a Pioneer SX-450 receiver

That power switch being what it is, sticking with 4700uF would be prudent. You aren't gaining anything by doubling those.

Yep, there are plenty of ways to look at the reservoir caps. When I redid this SX-450 two years ago, I decided my power switch cleanup and bridge upgrade were worth trying bigger caps... and they worked fine. I have zero empirical evidence the bigger reserves change the audio performance of the unit, so I have nothing to base a recommendation on beyond "it worked". After two subsequent years of restoring and (sometimes) upgrading the power supplies, I don't think I'd have made such a big jump in capacitance.

In the post above I gave a few options and pointed out the variables one could apply. Your "prudent" in my terms would be "safe" or "original spec" and should be a fine choice. Normally I'd also say "bump up the voltage so the typical operating voltage is only 80% of the cap's rating" to be "prudent" and "safe", but in this case the original spec of 35 VDC is already in that zone.

Bumping up the capacitance apparently is not a problem for in-rush with the upgraded bridge. It certainly could contribute to a shorter life (before you'd have to disassemble and re-clean) of the power switch. Of course, if you do the triac mod, then you've eliminated this downside.

If there are other significantly different options than the ones I've laid out and that you've quite appropriately pointed out, I'd love to hear them.
 
The other oddity in the power supply circuit was R305 and R306. In one schematic, there is both a R305 and a R360. One is 620 ohms and the other is 1.5K ohm.

In the corrected schematic and in my real world unit, the R306 position on the PCB has a jumper and the resistor at R305 measured at 1.5K. So... your unit may vary and you'd probably want to eyeball these two positions and measure the resistance of what you have before ordering.

Or, you could take the safe route and order one of each value: one 620 ohm and one 1.5K ohm.

SX-450 power supply missing resistor.png

R306 question 02 IMG_3072.jpg

IMG_3087.JPG
 
The tone controls aren't complex and just pots, resistors and some film caps. You could replace the film caps with newer, better caps... but I chose not to.

However, there are some tantalum caps in there... so I chose to replace those with Nichicon electrolytic caps. Nichicon KL series 0.47 uF 35 VDC is what I used back then, but I'd put in metalized polyester film caps in those positions now. They'd last longer and have no leakage (compared to just the very low leakage in the KL series caps).

01 IMG_3017.JPG

02 IMG_3018.JPG

03 IMG_3022.JPG

IMG_3065.JPG
 
Almost forgot to mention I put in snubber caps, across the power reservoir caps, and had to do so underneath the PCB.

The selection of the snubber caps was problematic, not because of the capacitance or voltage, but because the Panasonic polyester film caps I like are often rather large... and there is very little space under the PCB.

There is never much more than 25 VDC passing through these, so you can find smaller caps. Now that I've had two more years since of learning from ordering parts and "seeing" what their physical dimensions really mean... I'm looking much closer at the width and height and thickness specs on the parts sites. A Panasonic ECQE cap would be fine here, overkill really, but you'd want to choose the (B) series and a cap with a 5.9mm width rather than a "thicker" (F) series with a 10mm width.

IMG_3124.JPG

(If it isn't clear, these snubber caps are soldered to the two big power supply reservoir caps, just immediately underneath them on the other side of the PCB)

Or choose a non-Panasonic that is even thinner.
 
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The main amp is a direct-coupled (no output capacitors) quasi-complementary (two NPN output transistors per channel instead of one PNP and one matching complementary NPN) design utilizing a varistor to track heatsink temperature and control bias, and a fixed DC idle resistor. That's all above my hobbyist level, so go right ahead and correct me where I'm wrong.

So,

  • There are four identical output transistors (which are bolted to the heatsink)
  • There are two not-made-nay-longer varistors also bolted to the heatsink
  • There are no trimpots to adjust the DC idle
  • There are a few undesirable small signal transistors that can be / should be replaced

IMG_3003.JPG

IMG_3101.JPG

IMG_3105.JPG

IMG_3106.JPG

So,

  • don't forget you'll need 4 new mica transistor insulators for TO-220 package transistors and
  • new thermal insulator grease (like Aavid Thermalkote I) and
  • don't break the leads on the varistors or you'll have to make new ones (see THIS great thread on how to do that) and
  • you can replace the fixed resistors R221 and R222 with trimpots (as per THIS post above) and
  • you may want to replace the emitter resistors with new ones (just because they are under lots of stress and when they go they tend to take out the output transistor)
 
So, the BOM for the power supply can be split up into electrolytic caps only (just recapping those you know will be going bad):

C303 Capacitor Electrolytic 100uF 50V - UPW1H101MPD
C304 Capacitor Electrolytic 22uF 50V - UPW1H220MDD
C305 Capacitor Electrolytic 220uF 50V - UPW1H221MPD
C306 Capacitor Electrolytic 220uF 50V - UPW1H221MPD
C307 Capacitor Electrolytic 100uF 25V - UPW1V101MPD1TD
C309 Capacitor Electrolytic 4700uF 35V 25mm/55mm/10mm UKW1H472MRD
C310 Capacitor Electrolytic 4700uF 35V 25mm/55mm/10mm UKW1H472MRD
C311 Capacitor Electrolytic 10uF 50V - UPW1H100MDD​

and a all-remaining-parts BOM you could add to the recap-only BOM above if you are rebuilding the entire power supply:

C1 Capacitor Ceramic 0.01uF 150VAC/50VDC - ECQ-E4103KF
C2 Capacitor Ceramic 0.01uF 150VAC/50VDC - ECQ-E4103KF
C301 Capacitor Ceramic 0.01uF 150VAC/50VDC - ECQ-E4103KF
C302 Capacitor Ceramic 0.01uF 150VAC/50VDC - ECQ-E4103KF
C308 Capacitor Ceramic 0.01uF 150VAC/50VDC - ECQ-E4103KF
C309 bypass Capacitor Film - - - ECQ-E2104KB
C310 bypass Capacitor Film - - - ECQ-E2104KB
D301 Diode - "10E2" 200V 1A UF4003
D302 Diode - "10E2" 200V 1A UF4003
D303 Diode Zener "EQA01-35R" 35V 0.5W BZX79-C33,113
D304 Diode Zener "WZ-140" 14V 0.5W 1N5244B
D305 Diode - DS-150A 200V 1.5A UF5402
D306 Diode - DS-150A 200V 1.5A UF5402
D307 Diode - DS-150A 200V 1.5A UF5402
D308 Diode - DS-150A 200V 1.5A UF5402
D309 Diode - 1S1555 - - 1N4148
Q301 Transistor 2SC1384 C1384 NPN ECB KSC2690A
Q302 Transistor 2SD313R D313R NPN BCE MJE15032G
R241 Resistor Metal film 150R 2W - CPF2150R00FKE14
R242 Resistor Metal film 150R 2W - CPF2150R00FKE14
R301 Resistor Metal film 33R 1/4W - CCF0733R0GKE36
R302 Resistor Metal film 3.3K 1/4W - CCF073K30GKE36
R303 Resistor Metal film 560R 1/4W - CCF07560RGKE36
R304 Resistor Metal film 150R 5W - CP0005150R0JE14
R305 Resistor Metal film 620R 1/4W - CCF07620RGKE36
R305 special Resistor Metal film 1.5K 1/4W - CCF071K50GKE36
R306 Resistor Metal film 620R 1/4W - CCF07620RGKE36
R307 Resistor Metal film 470R 2W - CPF2470R00FKE14
R308 Resistor Metal film 470R 2W - CPF2470R00FKE14​
 
Had an hour tiday to take a peek inside the 450 I’ve bought for silly few quid Here in UK. It’s a Korean build and as you can see the notorious power switch is different from the ones I’ve seen before.looks a little more robust. I will see how it fairs and consider an upgrade later. Given it a clean up ready for a recap, although it appears to have had some work done already. Opinions on this welcome. No obvious failed caps but will do them anyway. There isn’t a light harness,weird, but I will replace the lights and beacon leds soon. I may even consider installing some 4mm speaker posts on the rear panel and wire to the existing clips on the rear foot panel.
 
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Doug this is an amazing amount of information and will greatly help me with my refurbish of my SX-450. I noticed in the Facebook pictures that you redid the phono section, do you have a BOM ist or was there one here on AK that you found?
Thanks for sharing all of the wonderful information again.
 
do you have a BOM list (for the phono board)

Sure. I've revised the original list I used for the phono / preamp portion of the SX-450 and looked the parts up with a few more years of experience under my belt.

Here is the BOM list that resulted:

C201,C202 56pF 50V C0G 810-FG28C0G1H560JNT0
C205,C206 47pF 50V C0G 810-FG28C0G1H470JNT0
C211,C212 10pF 50V C0G 810-FG18C0G1H100DNT0
C213,C214 3056pF 50V C0G 810-FG28C0G1H152JNT0
C215,C216 9100pF 50V C0G 810-FG18C0G2A472JRT6
C240,C241,C242 0.01uF 50V C0G 810-FK28C0G1H103J
C143,C144,C217,C218 0.47uF 25V KL 505-MKS2.47/63/5T
C203,C204 4.7uF 35V KL 647-UKL1H4R7MDDANA
C207,C208,C237 47uF 35V KL 647-UKL1H470MPD1TD
C209,C210 220uF 6V KL 647-UKL1A221MPD
C223,C224 1uF 25V KL 505-MKS21/63/10T
C225,C226 47uF 10V KL 647-UKL1C470MEDANA
C229C,230,C236 100uF 25V KL 647-UKL1V101MPDANATD
R201,R202 270K 1/2W 2% 71-CCF60-267K-E3
R203,R204,R209,R210 562 1/4W 2% 71-CCF07560RGKE36
R205,R206,R211,R212,R225,R226 150K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF07150KGKE36
R207,R208 120K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF07120KGKE36
R213,R214 12K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF0712K0GKE36
R215,R216 240 1/4W 2% 71-CCF07240RGKE36
R217,R218 5K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF075K10GKE36
R219,R220 1K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF071K00GKE36
R221,R222 27K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF0727K0GKE36
R223,R224 470K 1/4W 2% 71-CCF07470KGKE36
R268 47K 1/2W 2% 71-CCF60-47.5K-E3
Q105,Q106,Q201,Q202 KSA992 BJT TO-92 512-KSA992FBU
Q203,Q204,Q205,Q206 KSC1845 BJT TO-92 512-KSC1845FTA​

And a cut-and-paste list for the Mouser BOM tool:

810-FG28C0G1H560JNT0 2
810-FG28C0G1H470JNT0 2
810-FG18C0G1H100DNT0 2
810-FG28C0G1H152JNT0 4
810-FG18C0G2A472JRT6 4
810-FK28C0G1H103J 3
505-MKS2.47/63/5T 4
647-UKL1H4R7MDDANA 2
647-UKL1H470MPD1TD 2
647-UKL1A221MPD 2
505-MKS21/63/10T 2
647-UKL1C470MEDANA 2
647-UKL1V101MPDANATD 3
71-CCF60-267K-E3 2
71-CCF07560RGKE36 4
71-CCF07150KGKE36 6
71-CCF07120KGKE36 2
71-CCF0712K0GKE36 2
71-CCF07240RGKE36 2
71-CCF075K10GKE36 2
71-CCF071K00GKE36 2
71-CCF0727K0GKE36 2
71-CCF07470KGKE36 2
71-CCF60-47.5K-E3 1
512-KSA992FBU 4
512-KSC1845FTA 4​

A few notes:

C213,C214 are 3000 pF and that isn't an easy-to-find and inexpensive part, so I have specified two 1500 pF caps, so you'll just double them up when you install them. 2 x 1500 pF = 3000 pF

C215,C216 are 9100 pF and also isn't easy-to-find or inexpensive part. So I have specified two 4700 pF caps to double up to 9400 pF

C240,C241,C242 are underneath rear RCA jack cover/plate

R268 is an out-of-sequence R number in middle of phono premap, so I guessed at a higher wattage​
 
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Someone asked about the other transistors I replaced, so here is the complete list, sorted by board:

small unknown Q105,Q106 2SA725 KSA992

aux in Q207 2SC1222 KSC1845

phono preamp Q201,Q202 2SA725 KSA992
phono preamp Q203,Q204 2SC1222 KSC1845

volume / preamp Q205,Q206 2SC1222 KSC1845

main amp Q201,Q202,Q203,Q204 2SA725 KSA992
main amp Q205,Q206 2SC1775A KSC1845
main amp Q207,Q208 2SC1318A KSC2690A
main amp Q209,Q210 2SA720A KSA1013
main amp Q211,Q212,Q213,Q214 2SD313R MJE15032

power supply Q301 2SC1384 KSC2690A
power supply Q302 2SD313R MJE15032
 
As cool of a project as this is, it's almost overshadowed by your photography skills. I'll have to go back now and read what you actually did, audio-wise. :bowdown:
 
As cool of a project as this is, it's almost overshadowed by your photography skills. I'll have to go back now and read what you actually did, audio-wise. :bowdown:

Very kind of you. Thanks!
 
Just received the parts from Mouser.

I decided to just do the power supply electrolytics. Also figured I can do the dc trimpots at a later time, if it still works when I'm done that is. The amp currently works fine.

Ive done capacitors, but I've never installed transistors before but I figured this would be a good amp to learn how to do it on. Especially with your parts list.

Thanks for taking the time to post all this dlucy!
 
Someone asked about the other transistors I replaced, so here is the complete list, sorted by board:

small unknown Q105,Q106 2SA725 KSA992

aux in Q207 2SC1222 KSC1845

phono preamp Q201,Q202 2SA725 KSA992
phono preamp Q203,Q204 2SC1222 KSC1845

volume / preamp Q205,Q206 2SC1222 KSC1845

main amp Q201,Q202,Q203,Q204 2SA725 KSA992
main amp Q205,Q206 2SC1775A KSC1845
main amp Q207,Q208 2SC1318A KSC2690A
main amp Q209,Q210 2SA720A KSA1013
main amp Q211,Q212,Q213,Q214 2SD313R MJE15032

power supply Q301 2SC1384 KSC2690A
power supply Q302 2SD313R MJE15032

I have a question about the BOM you included in post #30. In post #32 you give a list of all the transistors you replaced. But in the BOM you only mention 2 x 4 transistors. Should I also replace the others you mentioned in #32?
 
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