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Record weight and/or clamp.......

WaynerN

WaynerN

Addicted Member
I started down this path again after my DIY attempt. My original DIY was a hockey puck with a .284 diameter hole machined in its exact center performed by a friend at his machine shop, using his lathe and a drill bit. The hole and the body are symmetrical. In the end, I thought the puck sucked out detail so I stopped using it.

A few weeks ago, the buy bug bit again and I purchased the Nobsound "Viborg" record weight. It's machined from an aluminum billet, black (or other color) anodized, includes a bubble level, and has a very thin open cell gasket on the bottom for gripping the record label. When I had my VPI in rotation, I used this record weight with it and thought that there was a marked improvement in detail, so the weight, at least for the VPI gets a thumbs up.

Then I put my old Empire 598 into rotation and immediately discovered that the weight was not going to work for a suspended table, so I ordered a record clamp, the Record Doctor with a clear base. When it arrived, it still tipped the suspension slightly, but thought it was OK anyway. Last night listening to some SAGA, I thought the 46 year old table was dishing out some tremendous detail (the very fine stuff) and that lasted for 3 albums of SAGA.

I was curious as to the weight of the weight and the clamp, weight was 275 grams, the clamp came in at 172 grams and the hockey puck weighs 173 grams.

I haven't really tried the Viborg or Record Doctor on my direct drive tables yet, perhaps this afternoon is it is colder then a witches t_t outside and an afternoon of some brews and music is sounding pretty good right now.
IMG_2169.JPG IMG_2165.JPG

BTW, the bubble level on the Viborg is slightly off, at least according to my Audio Technica bubble level.

'ner
 
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Hi Wayne!
I am using a weight, because I don't have a clamp, but, there are different reasons why to use it.
  • Void vibrations, a light 200 grs weight can be use to void any vibration from the record itself
  • Flat warp records, here the point change a little because you never will make a record flat pushing the center except if the record is concave, but will work on one side only.
Using weight the load is on the spindle bearing, using a clamp, the pressure in on the record and less on the bearing, but some clamps you need to push by hand and tight, putting stress on the bearing, IMO not a good idea.
after all this and the delta between the clamp or a average weight is about 100 grs, as a result, I prefer 200 or 250 grs weight than the clamp, so I gently can put it on the record.

AG.
 
I'm guessing the clamp uses some sort of a collet arrangement where you turn the knob on the back and it closes and retracts? I was thinking of building my own out of some commonly available collet of the proper size. Not because they aren't available, but mostly just as a project to do.
 
gadget73 said:
I'm guessing the clamp uses some sort of a collet arrangement where you turn the knob on the back and it closes and retracts? I was thinking of building my own out of some commonly available collet of the proper size. Not because they aren't available, but mostly just as a project to do.
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
Andre Garcia said:
Hi Wayne!
I am using a weight, because I don't have a clamp, but, there are different reasons why to use it.
  • Void vibrations, a light 200 grs weight can be use to void any vibration from the record itself
  • Flat warp records, here the point change a little because you never will make a record flat pushing the center except if the record is concave, but will work on one side only.
Using weight the load is on the spindle bearing, using a clamp, the pressure in on the record and less on the bearing, but some clamps you need to push by hand and tight, putting stress on the bearing, IMO not a good idea.
after all this and the delta between the clamp or a average weight is about 100 grs, as a result, I prefer 200 or 250 grs weight than the clamp, so I gently can put it on the record.

AG.
Click to expand...

On most tables, this is true, however the Empire's mat is designed so that only the outer rim of the mat touches the record, leaving an air gap under the label. The clamp will flatten any (except severe) warps using this kind of technology.
 
I tried the weight, but decided I didn't want that much weight on the bearings. I will be trying the clamp.....this next week. Still spending time with the Empire.
 
While you're deep in the trenches on this, I haven't seen anyone else copying my homemade solution...

I use a 36mm socket with a 1/2" drive. Jam a chunk of silicone tubing into the square.
15794378987677582513503458738751.jpg 15794379189771885625674405325654.jpg

It's mostly weight with a bit of clamping. Will hold a loose record to the platter securely. Bonus, also works on my 1219 without pulling the spindle out each time. The tubing grabs the spindle like it was machined to do so. I use it for cleaning more than anything . Works well on one side of dished records...

Going up or down a size won't matter much, but it will allow you to dial in the weight if you care. Ymmv.
 
I've had the viborg in silver for some time and now only use it when the TT isn't in use. On both my dual (idler drive) and luxman (direct drive) players it seems to take some of the "air" out of the top end. Might be a tad quieter smoother on the mids. Running v15 III and v carts w/jico sas and vivid line styli.

Some have complained of the fluid evaporating or the bubble disappearing, but I've no such problems after 2+ years and the level is still accurate. Only weird thing I've noticed is that what was neon yellow is now white! No matter, as the silver / white combo looks better IMO. Might have to play with it again on some newer albums.
 
Never been a fan of the record weight myself, I personally look at it as a brute force alternative to what a good record clamp can achieve.

The thread spindle and matching screw on record clamp is a good solution, as is the reflex style clamps. I happen to have a Sota Reflex and also the I-Clamp. The Reflex is the best stand alone clamp I have used, and it does a wonderful job. Well made, long lasting, however expensive.

When I bought my Well Tempered Reference it was missing the screw on factory clamp. It did come with an Orsonic reflex style clamp. Actually its branded Monster now that I think of it, but its the same clamp. It operates on a reflex style with the user pushing in on the center disc and sliding it onto the spindle and then releasing the button. Seems to work well. On the Well Tempered Reference I have chosen to use the I-Clamp, and it does a fine job also. Hopefully one day I can stumble across a factory clamp for the table, but for now these do very well.

Back in the day I used to remember Ortofon sold a spring loaded three leg clamp that was light and worked well. Good for tables with suspensions I thought. Don't see them anymore, and not even on the used market. They were not very expensive, around $20 in the 80's as I recall. Maybe they wore out or people junked them, but I would like one to experiment with and see what I think of them 40 years later.

Cheers
Mister Pig
 
I have used the Viborg for a year now on my Pioneer PL-518 with zero issues. And I play alot of vinyl !! The motor bearings on most DD are pretty damn stout. And 280 grams (9.87 ounces) centered on the spindle IMHO is negligible. Thats only 9.902 grams per sq inch. (Vigor is 3"). Collet type seem more prone to excessive force to me. That is unless the rachet or locking mechanism is like a torque wrench to keep you from over tightening (I doubt it). Then if your a gorilla, :) you get the idea. I do notice a difference in sound though with the weight. One thing I have not checked is how many revolutions my TT does with the weight vs not using it. I would think more revolution with it on (more mass turning). A little more motor stress at startup but less stress once its going. I will try it out and see.
 
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