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Rectifier Diode replacement question

birchoak

Hi-Fi Nut
Howdy folks--looking to replace the DS-2P diodes in the bridge rectifier of a JVC 5540 receiver. Draws 150 watts max, rated for 40 watts per channel.

I've looked and looked and I can find little to no mention of the DS-2P (DS2P, DS 2P spelling variations don't help the search).

Any suggestions would be great--just point me in the right direction--I'd imagine a data sheet on this original part would help me find a replacement.

Thank you!
 
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In several old ones I have made use of the 1N5406 or 5408. 3A rating on those, upping the voltage to 600 or 1kV was a small difference in price.
 
In several old ones I have made use of the 1N5406 or 5408. 3A rating on those, upping the voltage to 600 or 1kV was a small difference in price.

Interestingly enough, when I did a Google search for "DS2P diode," the very first hit was an ad for an On Semiconductor 1N5408G! I didn't know the search engine was smart enough to identify a suitable diode replacement, ha ha!
 
Howdy folks--looking to replace the DS-2P diodes in the bridge rectifier of a JVC 5540 receiver. Draws 150 watts max, rated for 40 watts per channel.

I've looked and looked and I can find little to no mention of the DS-2P (DS2P, DS 2P spelling variations don't help the search).

Any suggestions would be great--just point me in the right direction--I'd imagine a data sheet on this original part would help me find a replacement.

Thank you!
DS is a standard silicon diode. And at the rating of your unit, a modern 3A/400v should be plenty. As long as the holes are large enough for the lead diameter, a 1N5406G will be "tough as nails" for you. Although a 1N5403/4 will still be heavy enough. Note the "G" simply designates them being "lead free". The 1N5408G might have too large diameter leads.
 
Thank you for the detailed info--if the leads are too thick I have no problem drilling larger holes in the PCB--done it before and it's just my gear--no one else likes these ugly ducklings.
 
Thank you for the detailed info--if the leads are too thick I have no problem drilling larger holes in the PCB--done it before and it's just my gear--no one else likes these ugly ducklings.
Make sure there is enough solder pad left to solder to. I've drilled my share too, but made sure it wasn't going to become a problem before drilling.
 
Just a personal choice - Unless you are concerned with maintaining some kind of originality I would replace the individual rectifier diodes with a square block bridge rectifier (35A 400V should do fine) and bolt this to the chassis for heat dispersion. Mount the bridge rectifier as close a practical to the original diodes to keep the connecting wires fairly short. I would also solder 100nF ceramic caps across each diode in the rectifier to act as diode switch off noise snubbers. Make up twisted pairs for the AC and DC connections back to the circuit board.
 
I took dly66's advice and installed 1N5408's. I had to drill out the holes just a tough larger--not a problem as the solder pads are massive on this board! The bridge rectifier is alive and kicking and no longer putting out AC, so this part of the problem has been solved. Thank you all! Now I need to track down a short/noise/god knows what in the push-button bank pcb. I might cheat and simply swap in a working one from a 5551 I have as the sound is much better on this receiver.
 
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