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refurbished AR4x- a review...

thedelihaus

Nocturnal transmissions
My friend Rodney, a semi local friend here from AK under the name Rod G-6000 refurbed some AR4x I had, with help from a box of parts sent from, I believe, AR Guy, another AKer here (Rod, correct me if I'm wrong). I'm posting here first, and will follow later (hours, days, dunno) over at AK as I promised him. He wanted to hear the 4xs, and asked to borrow my ailing pair and single orphan. I explained the situation with them- intermittant L-pads, a bit of a twwack from the two working woofers (he caught that one), one dead speaker- turned out to be the woofer, and water-damaged cabs.

Well, he bypassed the L-pads (stopped the intermittantcy), re-capped them, re-doped the surrounds (stopping the thwapping), resealed the drivers to the cabs, and then refinished the cabs with a sanding, steel wool, tung oil, and lots of elbow grease.

They came back amazing, and sound wonderful. Much better than they should, judging by their humble appearance.

My first impressions with them are this-

The bass from these little speakers is quite amazing. These diminutive delights are much bigger than they sound- much, much bigger. I dunno how they did it, but for most recordings (bar the AC/DC), there was plenty of rich bass. But even AC/DC sounded great with them. Very nice.

Presentation is great, separation very good, although with some recordings not as sharp as some of the upper-end speakers I've used recently. Imaging was good- but after hearing a set of B&W speakers earlier that day, I wanted a tiny bit more. Damn that earlier listening session- otherwise, these humble speakers would have left me even more impressed. But, at a cost 10 to 20 times more than a pair of AR4xs, and 30+ years of development, whaddya expect?

Voices came across, for the most part, very clean and warm, but I'd find a nasally effect on two or three recordings. Rodney agreed. Recordings played were Towns Van Sant's "Poncho & Lefty" and Neko Case's "Deep Red Bells", among others.

And on a Tom Petty disc (I can't recall the disc but one of the tracks was "American Girl"), the tweeters on the AR4xs became a bit painful- the recording was very treble-heavy, and the ARs, to my suprise with those cone tweeters, became a bit much to bear. Also experienced it to a lesser extent witrh a Neko Case recording. A turn down of the treble cured it for the most part, worked great on Neko, made Tom tolerable but still not as pleasant to listen to as I'd have liked.

My room is lively, so by adjusting your seat height, even by a mere 8 inches, the sound of the speakers would change noticeably- almost as if you had two different speakers going at the same time. Lower gave a heavier bass delivery, and a slightly laid back sound, all with a very well-blended coherency, move upper and definition increased, accuracy, separation, and the sound became much more forward.

I spun CDs from a Sony ES deck, and played FM through a Sansui 5900 tuner hooked to an outside antenna.

Power was an 80's black Kenwood integrated amp, at around 100 or 120 wpc (can't recall).

Speakers were off the ground, on stands, about 12 inches- I'd recommend a tiny bit more- and at an approximate 7 to 10 degree angle.

For what it's worth, the re-doping of the surrounds is crucial- as is the re-sealing of the drivers of the cabs.

After listening to them, I'd now reconsider a decision I made with Rodney earlier- I personally would install new L-Pads, instead of bypassing them- I was in agreement to bypass them at first, but I'd say one may prefer the control over the speaker, and it's worth the extra effort and money.

Overall, for a smallish speaker, the AR4x is quite a performer, sounding much, much bigger than they should.

No regrets here, though I think I may move them along within a few weeks back to Rodney, to make room for further adventures in audio.

I really like them, but with EPI 100s, Dynaco A-25s, Boston Acoustics A70s, Genesis IIs, and many others to waddle through, there's only so much I can manage.

Edit- a few notes to remember about this review-

1- the AR4x were recapped and this made a big difference over initial sound. From laid back, warm, fuzzy, "wooly", to much more articulate and clean and more forward in presentation.

I don't always agree with re-capping, but certain speakers seem to benefit from it, such as EPI 100s, Advent 5002s and 5012s, and these ARs.

My room is new, and still lively, and will take a bit of time for me to tone it down. This will obviously affect the sound of the speakers. Your room may (most likely will) have an affect on the sound of it.

Placement of the AR4x can really affect the sound- like I stated above, even an 8"change was noticeable. Keep that in mind. I should experiment more with placement here.
 
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For what it's worth, the re-doping of the surrounds is crucial- as is the re-sealing of the drivers of the cabs.

I personally would install new L-Pads, instead of bypassing them- I was in agreement to bypass them at first, but I'd say one may prefer the control over the speaker, and it's worth the extra effort and money.

Overall, for a smallish speaker, the AR4x is quite a performer, sounding much, much bigger than they should.
Nice review, deli. I concur on the 4x, waaay bigger sound than they have a right to. :D And keeping some sort of control in place is a good move.

1- the AR4x were recapped and this made a big difference over initial sound. From laid back, warm, fuzzy, "wooly", to much more articulate and clean and more forward in presentation.

I don't always agree with re-capping, but certain speakers seem to benefit from it, such as EPI 100s, Advent 5002s and 5012s, and these ARs.
IME, all early AR's benefit from re-capping. I don't debate it anymore, I just do it.
 
Thanks for your well thought out and interesting review of these speakers. :thmbsp: Of course the sound could probably be significantly different with good working L-pads.
 
Thanks for your well thought out and interesting review of these speakers. :thmbsp: Of course the sound could probably be significantly different with good working L-pads.

The desision to bypass the L-pads was both mine and Rodney's.

And rodney did the bypass mod correctly.

It was only in afterthought that I'm wondering what the sound might be like with the L-pad restored instead of bypassed.

Remember, though- my room, it is a lively one.

For all those out there who cannot source or afford the L-pad part of the resto, don't be scared to bypass it.

For those with the skill, patience and cash to do so, I'd say go for the gold, and get the LK-pads working.
 
Of course the sound could probably be significantly different with good working L-pads.
The AR controls are rheostats, not L-pads. Leaving them out completely does change the voicing of the speaker - leaving them in and by-passing the control wiper leaves the crossover intact and sets the pot at full - a much better solution than leaving it out entirely IMO, if it is beyond repair.

There are many opinions (and threads, and alternate solutions) here on the subject.
 
I have done all the above but the redoping of the surrounds. Do you know what product he used to do that with? I have heard of many products such as armorall, Ilene's tacky glue diluted with water, Orange County Speaker fix, Acrylic Latex diluted with water etc....

g2032.jpg


Does the trick quite nicely.
 
Great review Paul. The supplies for sealing the drivers to the cabs and redoping the surrounds were purchased from Vintage-AR on that auction site. The Dayton caps from Parts Express.
Only the wipers were bypassed on the pots.
I highly recommend using the the products from Vintage AR.
 
thanks for the insightful review, delihaus! I had a pair of AR 2ax in college, stock, and they were indeed on the fuzzy side as you say about the 4s. i still liked them a lot. Glad to hear the older ARs have potential.

I wonder if you might be enjoy some parametric eq with these speaks? That cleared the problem right up for my HPM-60s. That would most likely involve pro audio equipment and I can't vouch for the sonics of any gear like that. Course you could try a Yamaha C-6 preamp, which I CAN recommend.
 
Nice review, Deli, thanks!

I still have not stumbled upon my first set of ARs. One of these days.:yes:

Btw, for any speaker over 15 to 20 years old, I recap. Old habits die hard.

Ken
 
I know there have been a lot opinions offered recently on what to use to seal the woofer surrounds...just curious what you guys used...a
 
Sorry Mr. Snoid, I can't tell you what it is.......I really don't know.
I contacted Larry from Vintage-AR and asked what he recommended to use for sealing the surrounds. He told me to add a few bucks to my order and he would send me what I needed. He's been restoring AR's for a long time and took him at his word. What he sent smelled like **** but did an amazing job sealing the surrounds on the AR woofers. Still had enough left to do another set. That is going to member Birddog to do his AR-4X surrounds. Maybe he'll let us know what he thinks of it when he's done.
 
The rubber cement will probably work well, but I STRONGLY RECOMMEND support Vintage AR by buying both his concoction of black sealer and his cabinet sealant- his cabinet sealant won't dry out like the plumber's putty many use, and the sealant for the surrounds is the best choice for re-sealing these, hands down.

If you love your ARs and really want to do them right, for at most a $5 or $7 more than what you'd spend on stuff at Home Depot, you could get the best stuff that won't give you trouble down the road.

So, yed, I strongly recommend doing it the best way, for a really nominal extra cost.

go see vintage AR and do it right.
 
As usual, an excellent job by Paul on this review of the AR-4x speaker! I'm looking forward to getting mine back in shape soon!, After the Genesis II's of course!
 
John, the 4xs are currently hooked up, so you'll get to hear them in action this week. I want to compare them to the recapped EPI 100s I've got here in a mini-shootout.

Feel free to borrow the 4xs before they go back to Rodney.

And Rodney was cool enough to save some of that sealant for you to dope the surrounds. I've got it here.
 
Does one need to dilute this or just paint it on full strength?

Thanks,

Rick

I use it full strength and brush it on a thin but even coat. It takes me back to my frisket making days with silk-screen printing (same idea). It seals and remains flexible. After a few years it needs to be repeated.

Oh yeah... ummmmm. I love the smell, too! :yes:
 
I use it full strength and brush it on a thin but even coat. It takes me back to my frisket making days with silk-screen printing (same idea). It seals and remains flexible. After a few years it needs to be repeated.

Oh yeah... ummmmm. I love the smell, too! :yes:

Didja know that Rubber Cement is used in hollywood for fire scenes? They slather it on doorways and door trim and walls, then light it ablaze for the effect desired.

The stuff from Vintage AR guy smells like Tester's model glue.

Remember the non-toxic version of the Testors that smelled of oranges?

Friskit... haven't heard that one in years.

You must also remember rubylith, amberlith, Stasharp, FilmOpaquer opaquing pens, Lith-O-Paquer Opaquing Markers, Blue Streak Non-Repro Blue Pens, Chartpak dry transfer lettering, Form-a-line tape, Letraline registration tape, Letraset, Pantone swatches, -and the like.

I can't recall the name of the "liquid" rubylith- I think it had an indian on the bottle?

Whoops, just hi-jacked my own thread...
 
The rubber cement will probably work well, but I STRONGLY RECOMMEND support Vintage AR by buying both his concoction of black sealer and his cabinet sealant- his cabinet sealant won't dry out like the plumber's putty many use, and the sealant for the surrounds is the best choice for re-sealing these, hands down.

There's a post on CSP from dynaco_dan who apparently worked for AR back in the day. He mentions using 3M strip caulk on the speakers... this may be what Vintage AR sells. I found some at a local body supply shop for $14 (20 yards of the stuff). It looks and feels identical to the crap I removed from the speakers.

There's also a filler in the electrical section at Home Depot that looks like it would fit the bill (cheaper than 3M stuff). The only downside is that you would have to roll it out yourself.

Regarding doping, Aileen's flexible fabric adhesive looks and smells an awful lot like silicone caulk. It dilutes readily. I'm doing some tests with it now and will post back with the results.
 
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