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Reisong A10: Technical review.

Of course since I already orders a pair of JJ lol. Just sent an email to see if they can swap the EH for the JJ, thanks for your help :)
Hopefully things got better since the tests were taken as it is a little old now... When my JJ 7591 did work they did sound great! Fingers crossed for ya.
 
Do you think the 3.2K OT would be a problem for a triode strapped 6V6? I ordered a pair of 6V6 and a pair of 7591 to play with.

If you connect your 8 ohms load to 4 ohms output - you effectively raise plate load. 16 ohms speakers will be better still. But to effectively use low plate voltage you need to convert to fixed bias first, which should not be hard to do.
 
If you connect your 8 ohms load to 4 ohms output - you effectively raise plate load. 16 ohms speakers will be better still. But to effectively use low plate voltage you need to convert to fixed bias first, which should not be hard to do.
Can you all help me with what happens when I arbitrarily change speaker impedance? I always feared going lower, like 4 ohms on an amp that wanted 8. But right now I have a rebuilt Magnavox 185. The original speakers were a "5-6 ohm" 15" woofer in parallel wit ha "5-6" ohm 8" speaker (I measured them as 6 even and 5.5, DC) also in parallel were two "3-4" ohm tweeters, which I measured as 3.6 ohms each. The tweeters had a 16 mfd capacitor in series. I realize that the series capacitor limits power to the two parallel tweeters but the combination has to be 4 ohms or less. This info is from the original schematic and also what I found in the cabinet. I am currently driving Klipsch Heresy speakers with this amp. no modifications. The Heresy is considered "8 ohm." Is there any risk to the amp from this?
 
Can you all help me with what happens when I arbitrarily change speaker impedance? I always feared going lower, like 4 ohms on an amp that wanted 8. But right now I have a rebuilt Magnavox 185. The original speakers were a "5-6 ohm" 15" woofer in parallel wit ha "5-6" ohm 8" speaker (I measured them as 6 even and 5.5, DC) also in parallel were two "3-4" ohm tweeters, which I measured as 3.6 ohms each. The tweeters had a 16 mfd capacitor in series. I realize that the series capacitor limits power to the two parallel tweeters but the combination has to be 4 ohms or less. This info is from the original schematic and also what I found in the cabinet. I am currently driving Klipsch Heresy speakers with this amp. no modifications. The Heresy is considered "8 ohm." Is there any risk to the amp from this?

Any speaker has complex impedance value that varies with frequency. It has little to do with DC resistance. Transformer converts speaker impedance into the value applied as plate load. Using 4 ohms output you double the load at the plate. Actually for tube amplifiers you always need to try connecting speakers to different transformer taps and choose one that works best. In different amplifiers best speaker tap can be different too.
 
Any speaker has complex impedance value that varies with frequency. It has little to do with DC resistance. Transformer converts speaker impedance into the value applied as plate load. Using 4 ohms output you double the load at the plate. Actually for tube amplifiers you always need to try connecting speakers to different transformer taps and choose one that works best. In different amplifiers best speaker tap can be different too.
I understand that speaker impedance varies with frequency. Still speakers in parallel lower the impedance. So this combo in the original amp was low. The capacitor in series with the two tweeters mitigates this effect at low frequencies. But the amp was driving something below 4 ohms, the rated impedance of the speakers tells me that. The output transformer does not have several taps, two wires come out of each transformer. So the amp is now driving a load that is twice or maybe a bit more than before. I am interested in the general trend that this would cause, and is it harmful?
 
StepheK, I didn’t realize this amp has a 290V HV secondary until I reread an earlier post. That is enough (meaning not too much) for proper class A operation for a triode strapped EL34 with a 3.2K opt, or a triode strapped 7591 with a 3.2k opt. You could "double" the reflected impedance on the primary as discussed above, but you will get less power by maybe 20% in either output tube scenario, and it won't be running either output tube optimally. So my vote would be to try first leaving the heaters powered from the power transformer’s 6.3 volt winding, convert to SS rectification, and run the opt as a straight 3.2k primary load.

Under those conditions, power output can be expected as roughly 5 watts with an EL34 or 4 watts with a 7591. I prefer the 7591 option because it has easier drive requirements and requires only 0.8A filament current.

With a 7591 with its easier drive requirements, you could even add a touch of plate-to-plate feedback so the amp isn't super sensitive on the frontend. I'd be careful with that though, since the effective load that that feedback connection will place on the driver stage is essentially the FB resistor size divided by the forward gain of the output stage. In parallel with the load the stage already sees in open loop conditions, could make for a difficult load for the 12AX7 to drive into. (I assume it's a 12AX7 equivalent type driver tube).

However, if you cut over the frontend tube to a 12AT7 or something similar with lower plate resistance, it could mitigate some or much of that concern while still giving you decent open loop gain out of that driver stage so that you see some benefits from adding the feedback.

Just some ideas...take them or leave them as you feel so inclined....
 
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StepheK, I didn’t realize this amp has a 290V HV secondary until I reread an earlier post.

Just some ideas...take them or leave them as you feel so inclined....

All good ideas. And yeah 290V with no center tap. I was thinking of trying the 6V6 tubes with the 8ohm load on the 4ohm tap in the "as built" amp and see what that does. Even if it only makes 3W, if the power is clean and it sounds good, that's a win for people who are afraid to mod the amp. Some of this is the hope users can just drop in some different tubes and get a nice improvement, then dive into internal mods to try to get what I can. If I end up using either the EL34 or the 7591, I will keep it at 3.2K but likely will need to mod internals to get these biased right..

Right now I wanna run the stock amp powered up for several hours and see how hot the PT is. That will give me an idea of what this PT might be able to deal with. And yeah 12AX7 driver. I have some 12AU7 tubes I could try, no 12AT7 on hand. And you know me too well, I want to put some plate to plate feedback in this thing bad :) Pretty much gonna be midweek for further testing till some tubes/parts arrive. Thanks again for everyone's help!
 
Glad I found this thread. I bought an A12 after hearing all the reviews on YouTube. I felt the bass was grainly for lack of a better word and the high end thin. I talked to Thomas he agreed to a point, then I told Sean that I have an A12 and wasn't impressed and got "Thats a totally different integrated from the A10" he also told me it may not be for everybody. I have kept my A12 as I like the looks, I even use it once in a great while but its hard to listen to.

I am not a measurement guy but this thread enlightened me.
 
I talked to Thomas he agreed to a point, then I told Sean that I have an A12 and wasn't impressed and got "Thats a totally different integrated from the A10" he also told me it may not be for everybody.

I'm a little out of the loop; Who are Thomas and Sean? Thanks!
 
I talked to Thomas he agreed to a point, then I told Sean that I have an A12 and wasn't impressed and got "Thats a totally different integrated from the A10"

Well the only difference is 0.7% lower ohms on the cathode resistor and a Russian equiv of the 12AX7 with a different pinout... I highly doubt they sound much if any different.
 
Hopefully things got better since the tests were taken as it is a little old now... When my JJ 7591 did work they did sound great! Fingers crossed for ya.

Vivatubes canceled the JJ order for me and from your link, I went ahead and ordered the Tung-sol. They seem to be worth the extra money and if not ideal for this project, look like an interesting tube to build something around later.
 
Vivatubes canceled the JJ order for me and from your link, I went ahead and ordered the Tung-sol. They seem to be worth the extra money and if not ideal for this project, look like an interesting tube to build something around later.
Great to hear love vivatubes they are local to me.
 
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Another tube that works great on the 4 ohm tap is KT66.

Also, I wonder why so many people are running these single ended amps without a crossover and sub. Even with push pull I used a sub.
 
Also, I wonder why so many people are running these single ended amps without a crossover and sub. Even with push pull I used a sub.

Most music played through these amplifiers does not have much content below 60Hz.
 
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