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Rek-O-Kut Re-Equalizer 3/Turntable 78rpm digitization question

Orchster

New Member
I have a total beginner question. I have an Audio Technica AT120 that I would like transfer 78rpms and transcriptions to my computer. I also have a Rek-O-Kut Re-Equalizer 3. What additional components and setup would necessary if I wanted to go from turntable to computer?

Would turntable -----> external preamp -----> Re-Eqaulizer 3 - Amplifier -----> Computer work? Or would I also need a graphic equalizer?
 
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Turntable---phono pre---Re-Equalizer---computer input should be fine.
You don't need a graphic equalizer.

One tip: don't max out the wave form.
Record at a lower level than you'll want in the end.
After editing the track, but before saving it, use the the "normalize" function in your recording software.
This will expand the wave form to normal parameters.
Record with too much gain and you'll clip the recording.

Also, keep in mind that it may take you a few tries to get everything right.
Have fun.
 
....

One tip: don't max out the wave form.
Record at a lower level than you'll want in the end.
After editing the track, but before saving it, use the the "normalize" function in your recording software.
This will expand the wave form to normal parameters.
Record with too much gain and you'll clip the recording....

I slightly disagree. You want to record at the maximum possible level WITHOUT CLIPPING. That way, if you normalize, and it lowers the level, it will also lower the noise floor.
 
I slightly disagree. You want to record at the maximum possible level WITHOUT CLIPPING. That way, if you normalize, and it lowers the level, it will also lower the noise floor.

Interesting. I've never heard of anyone using it like that before.
Isn't normalization a type of dynamic expander which allows you to maximize the wave form without increasing gain?
As far as I know increasing gain in the first place is what increases the noise floor.

Also, from a pragmatic point of view, having to set gain just below clipping for each individual track is a lot more work.
Set it at a lower level and there's rarely, if ever, a clipping problem.
Much easier to do multiple recordings during a session.
 
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Turntable---phono pre---Re-Equalizer---computer input should be fine.
You don't need a graphic equalizer.

One tip: don't max out the wave form.
Record at a lower level than you'll want in the end.
After editing the track, but before saving it, use the the "normalize" function in your recording software.
This will expand the wave form to normal parameters.
Record with too much gain and you'll clip the recording.

Also, keep in mind that it may take you a few tries to get everything right.
Have fun.

What is the best way to connect the Re-Equalizer to my computer? It has two outputs, but my laptop only has one standard headphone jack and usb-c slots. What type of adapter or cables would I need?
 
...Isn't normalization a type of dynamic expander which allows you to maximize the wave form without increasing gain?...
No, not usually. Normalization raises (or lowers) the gain so peaks max out at a pre-determined maximum (0dB, -1 dB, -3dB..etc.) Some normalization plug-ins can choose between peak normalization (as I described it) or as an average. That kind of normalization brings altering dynamics into it, acting pretty much as a compressor/limiter. But use of it that way is rare in my experience. Most normalization is peak normalization.
 
I slightly disagree. You want to record at the maximum possible level WITHOUT CLIPPING. That way, if you normalize, and it lowers the level, it will also lower the noise floor.
While I agree in theory, when transferring discs it's best to set levels very conservatively. Random unexpected clicks and pops can drive you into digital clipping and even if you use a click and pop repair plug-in after the fact, ringing from digital distortion at the clicks can affect sound quality and the performance of the plug in. I've measured some clicks on a disc to be almost 10 dB above program!
 
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