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Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

malden said:
The switch on my L37 was wonky as well. I completely dismantled it and cleaned all of the carbon off of the contacts and reset the gap between them. Has worked perfectly since.
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Mine came without one so I need to find a suitable replacement which could fit and do the job.

There is a toggle switch there to turn the motor on and off.

gZ0lzDb.jpg
 
malden said:
Do you leave the setting on 33-1/3 when the turntable is not in use?
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I don't because the wheels get flat because of the pressure against the platter and then next time you use the turntable you hear a rumble.

I plan to remove the plate where the switch screws/goes in and see what I can find at Skycraft, it's a local surplus store and sells a lot of old electrical/electronic stuff.
 
malden said:
The switch on my L37 was wonky as well. I completely dismantled it and cleaned all of the carbon off of the contacts and reset the gap between them. Has worked perfectly since.
Click to expand...

I've thought about making a run at the switch but I've never done that work before and I'm worried I'd mess it up and be stuck with a dead switch.
 
It's not clear to me what the switch is doing. The motor should turn on when you move the bakelite knob left or right. There's no need for an extra switch when, as you indicated, you don't want to leave the idler in place anyway - so a switch would just add an extra (unnecessary) step. Unless I'm missing something you should be able to just remove the switch and leave the motor in the on position, right?
 
Beer&Bourbon said:
It's not clear to me what the switch is doing. The motor should turn on when you move the bakelite knob left or right. There's no need for an extra switch when, as you indicated, you don't want to leave the idler in place anyway - so a switch would just add an extra (unnecessary) step. Unless I'm missing something you should be able to just remove the switch and leave the motor in the on position, right?
Click to expand...
Yes but the stock motor switch is no longer there at all.
 
cmarti said:
Yes but the stock motor switch is no longer there at all.
Click to expand...

Well, guess what? I found a switch which I adapted where the factory switch goes and I added an LED list where the toggle switch was.

So far everything working awesomely, I found the switch at the flea market, apparently was part of some movie theater equipment and it's old, like perhaps 1920's old.

The indicator light was bought from my local electronic surplus store.

Overall all is awesome.

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/UkqFE

UkqFE
 
Hull Rust said:
Thanks for adding your experience taking a ROK motor apart. The more we add to the knowledge base the better.

To help folks down the road do one-stop shopping here's link to a thread where @dtut does service on a ROK motor:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rebuilding-a-rek-o-kut-s101-motor.748206/

I'm in the process myself. I'm worried about damaging the stator coils so I'm trying to do everything without removing the stator.

Cleaning the felt pads with acetone really took out the old oil. The jar on the left is acetone and the old oil. The jar on the right is the cleaning jar with acetone:

View attachment 1019490

View attachment 1019491
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I got back at this motor so I wanted to link the previous post showing the process earlier.

I couldn't get the housing and stator separated so I could attach the bearing housing, so after some trial and error I built a high-tech jig.

I went down through the bolt holes with a screwdriver and tapped the stator out with a ball peen hammer on the screwdriver.

A problem may arise as before I put the high-tech jig in play I was trying the same procedure while holding the housing and guiding the screwdriver with one hand and tapping down on the screwdriver with ball peen hammer in the other. I may have nicked the windings, can't tell for sure.. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

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Hull Rust said:
A problem may arise as before I put the high-tech jig in play I was trying the same procedure while holding the housing and guiding the screwdriver with one hand and tapping down on the screwdriver with ball peen hammer in the other. I may have nicked the windings, can't tell for sure.. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

Let us know how it goes, I just replaced the motor on my L-34 with one with the tubes to lube in the bearings.
Click to expand...
 
Does anyone know what kind of motor is it?
Rek-O-Kut model UC-509
 

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cmarti said:
Mine came without one so I need to find a suitable replacement which could fit and do the job.

There is a toggle switch there to turn the motor on and off.

gZ0lzDb.jpg
Click to expand...
I haven't read the whole thread but your switch should work when you tighten the screw, that's what makes contact to power on and off have you tried that? Not to sound ignorant if you did.
 
JFRACE said:
I haven't read the whole thread but your switch should work when you tighten the screw, that's what makes contact to power on and off have you tried that? Not to sound ignorant if you did.
Click to expand...
Oh, there was not switch so I replaced it with the one I found at the flea market and installed a pilot light where the toggle switch was.

Some pictures of the project: https://imgur.com/a/UkqFE
 
New to me K-33-H with Audax arm and (?) cartridge, all made in New York, just gifted to me with a pair of Advent/3 speakers and a solid -state modern Sony receiver.

Given by great friend of the Family, Barbara W. Her Daughter and I met, as did our mothers, while pushing respective baby carriages in Ca. 1964. Her late husband helped develop the FET transistor and later circuits @ the IBM Labs.....

It WILL get the full Monty restoration, eventually, and be my office TT...

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I have an L34 and had to find a switch for it. Found one and installed it. But it always bugged me that I couldn't stop it on a dime so to speak like my Russco Cue Master and Technics SL1200Mk2's I have. So I added a switch and neon light like the Russco has and took out the factory type switch. Now it stops like my Russco and my Technics Sl1200Mk2's. And it starts in about a quarter turn to full speed. It didn't have a suppression cap for the switch so I added a capacitor and resistor.

I rebuilt the motor because it was real slow getting up to speed, like 5 to 10 minutes, Once warmed up it was OK when started and stopped. Just a problem when cold. My Russco has the same problem. Well even after I rebuilt the motor it did pretty much the same thing. One day I accidentally left the power switch on for a whole day and didn't know it because I leave a towel covering the turntable. The turntable was not running just the motor. Man it was hot after running all day. I thought I ruined it. But everything was fine. And what do you know now the motor starts from cold and comes to speed immediately.

They are pretty cool little turntables. I also have a B-12-H I'm working on.
 
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