thank you for your reply ..but i wouldn't like to convert the analog signal to digital...just to hear the result straight from the reel to reel deck...Audacity is for sure a great plugin...but the ''cleaning'' work has to be done earlier...
Removing tape hiss
- Thread starter balddor
- Start date
thank you for your reply ..but i wouldn't like to convert the analog signal to digital...just to hear the result straight from the reel to reel deck...Audacity is for sure a great plugin...but the ''cleaning'' work has to be done earlier...
jsisk
Not 2 Old 2 Rock & Roll
Most noise reduction units need to be used to encode before recording and decode on playback. What you would need is a single ended noise reduction unit. A dbx dynamic range expander will also work for playback only. I have and use both for those few recordings from the 70's that have audible hiss from the master tapes, such as Steppenwolf and Three Dog Night.
You can also try digitizing them first and use software to remove the hiss.
You can also try digitizing them first and use software to remove the hiss.
Roving Sign
Active Member
I was responding to the person who started the thread.
As for you - you're unlikely to find such a device, given the requirements you've laid out...or at least one that will sound as good as digital cleaning.
Putting a 30 year old device in the signal chain betrays your requirement of "cleanest"
Be a digital true believer.
Record your records to reel - playback the master>remaster it to digital - and sit back and enjoy your glorious analog sound.
If you're mastering clean sources or live, you won't really need any editing...beyond track splitting.
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DougMac
Super Member
Just curious, are these original recordings or dubs of commercial releases?
The problem with hiss is that it is "white" noise (using the term non-technically), or broadband noise. That means that the noise is within the frequency range of the signal. There's no good way to remove it without removing part of the signal as well.
I use DC Art restoration software. One effective method is to choose the high pass filter set to 24db/octave slope and adjust the threshold to where all you hear is noise with no signal. Make a note of the threshold frequency, then go into the low pass filter and set the threshold to the same frequency. That will pass everything lower while attenuating everything above. Run the filter on the file.
I then go into the dynamic noise filter and sample just the hiss. DC Art then allows you to fine tune the adjustment as you apply it, usually using the sample to apply the filter is too aggressive.
Finally, DC Art has a feature that can help "brighten" a dulled recording. It synthesizes highs by recreating harmonics. I rarely use it, but sometimes it can help. It can do the same thing to create bass to bass thin recordings. That's more effective.
The problem with hiss is that it is "white" noise (using the term non-technically), or broadband noise. That means that the noise is within the frequency range of the signal. There's no good way to remove it without removing part of the signal as well.
I use DC Art restoration software. One effective method is to choose the high pass filter set to 24db/octave slope and adjust the threshold to where all you hear is noise with no signal. Make a note of the threshold frequency, then go into the low pass filter and set the threshold to the same frequency. That will pass everything lower while attenuating everything above. Run the filter on the file.
I then go into the dynamic noise filter and sample just the hiss. DC Art then allows you to fine tune the adjustment as you apply it, usually using the sample to apply the filter is too aggressive.
Finally, DC Art has a feature that can help "brighten" a dulled recording. It synthesizes highs by recreating harmonics. I rarely use it, but sometimes it can help. It can do the same thing to create bass to bass thin recordings. That's more effective.
SaSi
Seriously Illogical
There's a unit from Behringer called Denoiser 200 (IIRC) that performs a noise gate hiss removal and is single ended (in that it's not requiring an encode and decode phase).
I've used one once and with careful adjustments and some experimentation it did perform. It probably removed 5-10dB of noise. However, with Cool Edit Pro and noise filters I can remove 25-40dB of hiss and LP surface noise in one go without losing audible fidelity.
With a fast PC (nothing fancy, just todays run-of-the-mill) filtering runs in 20-40x the duration of the recording so a full 1,5 hour tape gets denoised in less than 2 minutes.
Tweaking the denoiser for each particular tape might take more time to get the adjustments right.
I've used one once and with careful adjustments and some experimentation it did perform. It probably removed 5-10dB of noise. However, with Cool Edit Pro and noise filters I can remove 25-40dB of hiss and LP surface noise in one go without losing audible fidelity.
With a fast PC (nothing fancy, just todays run-of-the-mill) filtering runs in 20-40x the duration of the recording so a full 1,5 hour tape gets denoised in less than 2 minutes.
Tweaking the denoiser for each particular tape might take more time to get the adjustments right.
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
There is no way you can eliminate the tape hiss or heavily reduce it without affecting the sonics. Noise gating will help some and be unintrusive as a rule. You can reduce the tape hiss some without doing too much sonic damage. But NR is best used sparingly. P.S. the DBX single ended unit was their dynamic range expander which on some material was just fine if lightly used. I like these units.
AnalogDigit
Realistic fan.
You might want to check into a DNR unit or even better a Phase Linear Autocorrlator noise reduction unit. Both work well with existing tape hiss.