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Repairing a broken Pioneer switch operating arm

steveUK

steveUK

Active Member
A Pioneer SX-1050's mute switch's operating arm had broken off at the very end where the knob fits on. I have an earlier model tuner that I use as a donor set, and it had a similarly configured two position switch. Sadly on removing both switches it became obvious that they were quite different parts. However the operating arm, the part I needed was the same. The problem was, the 'inside' part of the arm was, again, different. So I hatched a plan. I cut the arm off the spare (tuner) one, and I made a slot using a Dremel and diamond cutting wheel in the one I wanted to repair. I ground down the donor arm to closely match the slot in the other one. This can be seen in the photos below. I then mixed some two pack epoxy, carefully coated the two parts with it and slotted them together leaving a film on each side of the arm for added strength. As I speak the epoxy is setting so I should be able to post a photo of the final job tomorrow, not that it looks much different to the 'joined' photo below, but smeared in epoxy. Ok, I could have sourced and bought a replacement switch, but this was a fun and rewarding job to do, and I saved a bit of time and money.

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Nice! I ended up doing a couple of similar repairs on unobtainium parts for my 1970 Cutlass restoration. JB Weld to the rescue. Good post.
 
That's a good idea and nicely done. I had the same problem with an Alps toggle power switch. I beveled the edges of both pieces, lined it up and held in place with a magnet, then MIG welded it together with a couple of quick zaps on the lowest setting. Worked out fine but could have just as easily turned it into a melted blob.
 
gort69 said:
That's a good idea and nicely done. I had the same problem with an Alps toggle power switch. I beveled the edges of both pieces, lined it up and held in place with a magnet, then MIG welded it together with a couple of quick zaps on the lowest setting. Worked out fine but could have just as easily turned it into a melted blob.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I first thought about soldering my switch arm parts together, but it would have meant a lot of heat for a longish time, and the arm contacts with nylon parts inside the switch body, I didn't want to risk melting them, so I used twin pack epoxy.
 
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